Toodles is dealing with some personal stuff but, rest assured, he’ll be in here soon.
My kitty started doing the same thing on my PC the other day. I could switch to 360 mode and have it work fine though. I haven’t tested it since on the PS3/OG Xbox.
Im here and digging through, just a moment. Let me catch up on the deluge, but I think the trigger thing is an easy fix for those with non-TE models.
First off, trigger problems using the spring terminal board on TE-S and VS based sticks: The fix for first get TE trigger problems was added to the board and is the only thing that makes sense to be affecting this. On the bottom of the Kitty is a small black piece with three legs, labelled ‘Z1’. Grab a pair of pliers and pop that piece off. Then, make VERY sure that the ‘6’ ribbon going to the Kitty is in the connector on the edge of the board, not the one on the inside.
For trigger problems using the spring terminal board on TE based sticks: Go ahead and pop off the same Z1 on the bottom of the board, and test it out. If you still have difficulties, then the resistors are causing problems. If you can use a soldering iron, it’s just a matter of either removing the R32 and R33 resistors on the bottom of the board and putting a solder bridge in their place, or otherwise just shorting the RT pin to 3K and the LT pin to 4K on the bottom of the board where the 6 pin ribbons for buttons go.
Now for the rest.
ok taking out Z1 on a TE-S fixed my LT. only that the LED for RT/LT don’t work but i don’t mind that
Just installed it, ran into a few things. I don’t know if I would call them problems, for instance; If you don’t have Games for Windows Live installed on the computer you’re plugging the stick into when you get to
it won’t light up. This is probably common sense but I saw a few people with this problem in the thread. (It did not light up on laptop, however it lit up on my PC)
2nd when I got to
When in properties and moving the joystick nothing happens, I had to switch to DP (after starting in xbox mode) to see anything show up. I don’t know if this is how its suppose to be but testing it on my computer with SFIV:AE (start in xbox mode = Turbo + RS) all xbox controls seemed to work perfectly (LS, DP, though I don’t know why anyone would use laggy ass LS)
I have yet to test PS3 but thus far seems pretty awesome. Will I need to manually set PS3 buttons? Also is there a link/chart to all the modes for the stick?
Thanks for the cool product. Can’t wait to try it on my ps3 that’s coming.
**EDIT: **Got my PS3, works flawlessly, plug and play. Awesome. For someone first getting this the only suggestion/tip I can give is on the USB cable give yourself a lot to work with when stripping the 4 super small cables, its a bit of a bitch to get them into the locks.
Yep, that’s standard.
It is not listed in the install guide but after a PC recognises 360 mode the joystick slider must be moved back to ‘DP’.
Ah thanks a lot for the clarification this puts me at ease.
Although I’m not a card-carrying member of the FGC, I have been a longtime arcade enthusiast, modder and FG fan - solidified when I got my SFII CE cartridge for Genesis (when initially released).
That brings me to my first question: Support for Genesis? Reading the pinouts show it uses all 9, so this seems unlikely unless you have some nice coding magic you could use if two wires were shorted together (or you know some shortcuts!). Since Sega’s controller pinouts use some of the standard controller scheme found in older systems, this would be wonderful for my all-in-one arcade/console project. (No love for Coleco/Intellivision though…)
Also, been fighting with PayPal (read: no progress) as they recognize my Visa but won’t allow it. Do you have other methods for payment? Amazon never has issues et. al…
And just learned that Wii isn’t directly supported 
That will teach me to prep cables without re-reading your manuals another 5 times before cutting cables!
Long-time stalker here but first post so please excuse the verbal diarrhea. Love your contributions Toodles and loving the community.
just got my te kitty, how do u attach the usb cable on the terminal without the screws? it may be obvious but I don’t see it.
never mind it was obvious, push down on the buttons.
Just finished my TEKitty install and everything looks great my L and R triggers even work(though they look like they stick on my pc but work fine on my ps3). Word to the wise if you have the spring terminals on your board make sure you cut 2.5 to 3 inches of the rubber insulation off the usb cable, this will make it much easier to connect all the wires to the spring terminal. Finally thanks to Toodles for making these awsome products for us to enjoy.
Problem:
(The triggers and two other buttons wouldn’t work.)
Solution:
I installed a Kitty (with TE-S harness) today, and this fixed the problem that I was having. Thanks!
I’m glad my ridiculously long post was able to help someone else, haha. Enjoy your TE-Kitty stick! I know I am!
I plugged my TE stick modded with the Kitty into my 360 before turning it on and the 1 player light came on but when I turned the 360 on the light went off and it didn’t recognize the stick. It will work if I force it into 360 mode but won’t auto-switch also even when I force it into 360 mode the light on 1P lite on my 360 comes on but not on the stick. Everything seems to work fine(on the PS3 as well) but I want to make sure I haven’t messed anything up.
Double check your installation then try re-flashing the firmware.
If that doesn’t help then post back and wait for Toodles to reply.
It worked fine before I plugged the stick into the 360 before turning it on. I did re-flash the firmware still the same issue, the lights around the guide button on the stick flash once and the 360 doesn’t recognize the stick. Like I said it will work if I force it into 360 mode(move the switch to rs and hold the turbo button wile plugging it in)and it works fine on my PS3. If I didn’t do any damage to anything it’s no big deal,just wondering.
finally got a chance to try this, ripped out the Z1 piece…and toodles i just wanted to say thanks, this worked like a charm and now my kitty is complete, witch is just too damn godlike. thank you, for coming through man, and i hope all is well otherwise, i know you had your hands full with life, so i’m just thankful you responded. will def be buying more stuff from you in the future.
Removed Z1 and everything works now. Thanks! Toodles, can you explain the implications of removing that component? I know it was part of the trigger fix, so will there be problems down the road?
Awesome work, Toodles- just wanted to say this is my second Kitty installation, and after the Z1 fix, it’s been working fine.
I grabbed a Kitty and a Fightstick PRO over EVO weekend, and it took me a while to come up with a mounting solution I was okay with. I took a dremel to the case as visible in butteroj’s pic, but when I mounted it like that, the pins on the bottom of the board touched the metal bottom of the case, which made me a little nervous. I next tried mounting the Kitty “under” TE-S PCB as visible in Mufasa2’s pic, but I was annoyed at how tight the fit was, and it still involved cutting a bunch of plastic out of the case. the In the end, I ended up mounting it without needing to cut out any plastic from the stick, using only about $5 in extra materials, most of which are probably available at your local hardware store.
If, God help you, you want to mount a Kitty in a Fightstick PRO, you might want to try this out.
Materials:
Kitty, and TE-S wire harness. Obviously.
A copy of the TE-S Kitty installation guide. Digital or dead-tree, doesn’t matter. I had it up on my netbook while working, which gave me a convenient place to test the Kitty when done (and a place to watch Wednesday Night Fights during breaks).
All the necessary supplies for a TE-S Kitty installation. Just check the installation guide.
One pack of self-adhesive 1" x 1" mounting bases. These are the kinds of things you see in PC cases sometimes, to provide anchor points to tie down cables. Just make sure you put them where you want them the first time, they don’t come off. I happened to use Commercial Electric ones, like these, only my local shop had them in black.
One pack of 4" zip ties. I used these because they’re really narrow, and could fit through the small holes in the TE-S PCB. You might want to buy longer ones, the 4" are just the cheapest I found that worked. As a bonus, the leftover ties you will inevitably have can be used to tidy up your cables or secure the USB cable to the post, if you are so inclined.
(Optional) A little bit of rubbing alcohol. This is to help prepare the surface of the frame for sticking the mounting bases on it. It’s not strictly necessary, but it’s not a bad idea, and most people have it hanging out under the bathroom sink or something.
The general gist is to thread the zip ties through the screw holes on the TE-S PCB and the large holes in the Kitty, where the posts would go through on a normal TE. You can then thread the zip ties through the mounting bases and cinch them tight. The mounting bases let you place the Kitty and TE-S anywhere you want in the case, which means you can replicate the over-under configuration in a normal TE by mounting the Kitty on the top frame and the TE-S PCB on the bottom frame’s lip. I don’t have a lot of pictures, because I’d already mounted it before prepping this post, but I have a couple at key points, and most of it is right out of the TE-S Kitty guide. So let’s get started.
Steps:
0) Read through the TE-S install guide.
It really will help- you’re gonna be referencing it a lot later. Plus, it’ll be useful to understand how a normal install works, so that you can understand where this one is different.
1) Open the case.
Flip the stick upside down, and rest it between two surfaces so the joystick can move free. I used the stryofoam molds that came in the Fightstick. Pop the metal bottom off by removing the feet and screws (including the one under the warranty sticker, sorry, this is gonna leave a trace). This should give you a pretty good view of the guts of the case.
2) Remove the bottom frame.
Unscrew the red-gunked screws around the lip to remove the bottom frame. Remove the wires from the start and back buttons, and set the frame off to the side. You should be able to see the TE-S PCB in the corner laterally opposite the headset jack.
3-8) Follow steps 3-8 of the Toodles’ TE-S install guide.
- Unscrew the TE-S PCB in the corner.
- Label the cables coming out of the TE-S PCB**.**
- Remove all the cables from the TE-S PCB.
- Cut and prep the USB cable. Set the TE-S PCB aside.
- Prep the LED daughterboard.
- Prep the button distribution board.
9) Stick the mounting bases for the Kitty on the top frame.
Find a spot where you want to mount your Kitty. You need to place the Kitty somewhere where the TE-S cables will reach and somewhere there’s enough space. I placed it in the empty spot just below the joystick, near the headset port. Check the photo- I’d recommend placing them a little closer to the distribution board, but the placement I had works fine.
If you want to prep the spots with rubbing alcohol, rub them down and give them an hour or so to try. Peel the backing off the adhesive on the bases, then stick them down.
10) Tie down the Kitty.
Slide a zip-tie through the slots on each mounting base. Place the Kitty over them. I highly recommend placing it as oriented in the photo below, with the RJ45 jack facing the button side of the case. Not only does it make installing an RJ45 passthrough jack much easier, but it guarantees that the cables will be long enough to reach around the lip.
Thread a zip tie through one of the holes on the Kitty, and secure the zip tie as loosely as possible- keeping it loose will help you thread the other ones through. Repeat with the other three ties. Once you’ve secured all four, cinch them down so that the Kitty won’t move. The completed assembly should look something like this:
11) Wire up the Kitty.
The original TE-S install guide has all the cable connections (minus the joystick) done in one step. Because the TE-S PCB isn’t mounted yet and the lip on the bottom frame is going to prove an obstacle, I connected all the wires to the Kitty here. The TE-S wires will be connected later. For completeness, the cables I was able to connect here:
- Step 9A from the original guide: connect the short cables to the appropriate inside headers, label them R and V.
- Step 9B from the original guide: connect the short joystick cable to the appropriate inside header.
- Step 9H from the original guide: connect the end connector of the “6” cable to one of the appropriate headers. Only the outside worked for me.
- Step 9I from the original guide: connect the end connector of the “5” cable to one of the appropriate headers.
- Step 9J from the original guide: connect the long R and V cables to the appropriate headers.
- Step 9K from the original guide, EXCLUDING plugging the 7-pin connector into the TE-S.
- The second Step 9J from the original guide: Connect the joystick cable to the appropriate outside header. Since you never had to remove the other end of the joystick cord, the joystick should be wired to the Kitty now.
- Steps 10 and 11 from the original guide: Connecting all USB wires.
12) Secure the bottom frame.
Invert the previous operation- put the bottom frame on, and screw it down. Make sure all the wires are clear, and plug in the start and back buttons.
13) Stick the mounting bases for the TE-S PCB on the lip of the bottom frame.
Remember, because the cables are short, you’re going to want to stick the mounting bases near the Kitty. I only used two bases for the TE-S PCB, and secured two zip ties to each. See the photo in step 15 for mine.****
14) Tie down the TE-S PCB.
This should start sounding like deja vu.
15) Wire up the TE-S PCB.
Basically, re-read the TE-S install guide and plug everything in where it says**. **Here’s mine after steps 13, 14, and 15:
16) Test and close up.
Because getting to the boards is not that difficult, I actually tested after closing the case- I can flip the stick right-side up and actually look at what buttons I’m pressing.
Sorry for the wall of text, but I figured verbosity would help dispel any questions in advance.** **Feel free to ask in the thread or PM me if you want some more detail.