Hey Shin, my adapters arrived yesterday. So far, I could only verify one of them as working, the other one will be tested within the next days. Work is time-consuming these days. Thanks a lot for your efforts!
By the way, am I the only one planning on using some sort of plastic case for the electronics? I just need to find one which fits in my stick case though… might have to build it from scratch with acrylic glass
option.iv, you are correct … I meant mini-b. And I do get all my cables from monoprice.
Actually that is how I originally set up the cabling but I did not like the “pigtail” hanging out and wanted a solution that was flush to the stick. I could not figure out how to mount the cable mini-b to usb flush. So I went with using the converter milham/shinjn/jayducky went with. Really interested in seeing your pix on how you mounted it flush with the stick
milkham, I did use that type of convertor … just a cheaper version from monoprice.
im working on making my SF4 SE wireless, my question is, how can i still keep the functionality of the home button on the SE, i could care less about turbos, but im trying to figure out how to wire that home button, do i wire it straight to the sixaxis or do i still wire it to the axisadapter.
The AXISdapter has a connection for the home button, it’s labeled as PS on the board.
For those wondering if you can use a flash or P360 with the SIXAXIS controller: the battery used to power the SIXAXIS is rated under 5V (around 3.7V I think). A flash or P360 needs 5V to function properly. You CAN use 3.7V for older P360s, but the newer ones you cannot. Toodles created a voltage step-up gizmo that took a 3.3V source (playstation 1/2) and stepped it up to 5V. You can try this and see if it works, but do know it may drain your battery even quicker. If you do get a flash or P360 to work, you may want to upgrade the battery as seen in this post http://forums.shoryuken.com/showpost.php?p=6115311&postcount=316.
There’s a lot more issues than just the battery at stake. Since the board isn’t common ground, while the flash and p360 are, you’ll need to make an interface of some sort, either using relays (yuck) or or one of my 360^2 boards that uses analog switch chips. The interface itself will have to be powered, which means either you have to install a power switch to turn off the power, or experience the battery drain even when not in use. The p360 pulls about 60mA, and the interface board pulls maybe 1mA. The stock battery has IIRC 660mAH of charge, so fully charged, PS3 off, the battery would drain completely in about 10 hours without a power switch. That kind of defeats the purpose of having a wireless stick. Even if you upgrade to the big daddy 6AH battery, you’ve stretched it to 100 hours, or 4 days.
Just forget about it. Use microswitch sticks. Trying to use a powered stick would require an interface board, a power converter board, tons of wiring and soldering, and still require a power switch on the case itself.
Hey where is the battery for you pcb under it? Also how are you planning to charge it when you close it up? Did you make a hole for the mini usb to charge?
Nice! Thanks again for all the insight and taking the time out to explain it all to me. This is something I’m definitely thinking about trying out hehe. Hey, in case you still need one of those lamps, I found some on amazon lol. :lol:
I like that fiber optic cable trick. I’m going to have to try that. My idea was to use a 7-segment LED number display to display the controller number but I haven’t had time to figure out how to do it yet. lol.
the battery is just resting under it. nothing is mounted yet, i just did the solder work while i wait for other parts to show up. i will probably just zip tie the battery in place.
i’m gonna use either a usb female to female adapter mounted to the case like everyone else or i will add a retractable usb cord that is already connected to the pcb. the stock mas already has a fat hole on it for the cable to come out or to mount a female to female plug to it.