There are exactly 0 grounds on the AXISdapter. The one that is the start/select common is the only one actually anywhere near 0 volts, but IIRC it is not connected to the electrical ground from the battery. There’s something really weird with how the start and select work, and unless I took the time to put it under an oscope I won’t be able to elaborate on it any more than that. The two main ‘common’ lines for the right and left halves are high voltage, like 2.78v I think. The signal lines are about 2.76v, and go up to 2.78v when pressed.
Jayducky, sorry for the bad news, but forget about it. Getting led’s working with that pad would require some NASTY elaborate electronics and uber fine pitch soldering. I know I’m never going to hear the end of the ‘Why not?’ questions over the next three years, but for all intents and purposes, no, you can’t do an LED mod or dual pcb hack. Not just a no but a big fat ‘Hell No’.
The best one could do would be to extend the four player LEDs to LEDs on the stick. No risk of battery drain, but not quite as cool as the flashy lights we all know and love, and would require surface mount desoldering of the existing LEDs and soldering fine wire to those points.
I thought using the sixaxisadapter board as the interface somehow simplified the complicated architecture of the sixaxis pcb. Oh well. Thanks for the reply Toodles.
If it’s the PC version, I’d expect the problem to be the game. With the SIXAXIS drivers, the d-pad will map to either buttons or less often to the POV Hat, niether of which play well with most doujin games. Either way, look into a xpadder or similar programs that map stick inputs to keyboard presses and it should work fine.
seems like they register the d pad on six axis as buttons, and Melty Blood does not allow the usage of buttons for directions.
ha… ha… ha… looks like I still have a lot of trouble shooting to do…
now I face one problem… I can never disconnect my six axis from the PC without turning on the dam ps3
press the reset button, same thing happens, thinking about unpluging the battery and see what will happen… that then… that just lost the wireless ability =_=
My quick and dirty mod posted here. I have only tried it briefly on SFII HDRemix … will put it through a more rigorous test tomorrow oHDRemix as well as VF5 and SC IV tomorrow
BTW, love your TE fightstick videos. I dont even have one … yet ;p
I’m going to be putting in an order some time this week. I want to make a few tiny additions but I’ve been swamped with videos, write-ups, and photography.
Here are a few shots of the inside of my VSHG. You can see
where I placed my sixaxisadapter board. Notice the battery
upgrade.:lovin:
A warning on the battery upgrade. I had to switch the positive and
negative terminals on the sparkfun battery. Otherwise it would’ve
blown up my pcb. I zip-tied my wires and bent the terminals on my
buttons in order to close my panel. Other than that everything was easy.
Hey Jayducky, thanks for posting the pix of the battery mod; awesome stuff. Some confimation (maybe even a pic or two) about how you connected the usb charge cable.
It looks like you used the regular usb A male to usb mini B male cable and connected it to a usb A female to usb A female plug (lack of a better term)?
I can give you some food for thought with my testing. SFHDR vs VF5 and cthulhu/vshg/fs3 vs wireless. Maybe some others that have done this mod can chime in as well.
SFIIHDR
I did not have any issues with any of the regular stuff I can pull on a cthulhu/vshg/fs3 stick. I am not a very establish SF player. But am able to, in training mode, pull off Ken’s 7 hit super combo with ease with any of the sticks I have.
VF5
However, some of the very frame sensitive stuff in VF5 like
Akira: knee, DLC
Aoi: 1frame hit throws
Wolf: “fast input” giant swing (requires half circle and P+G in less than 8 frames)
I was not able to execute any off those above with any consistency on the wireless as opposed to a cthulhu/vshg/fs3.
When looking at the frame rate data in VF5 training mode it looks like the wireless has about a 1 frame lag on all the inputs. Now that being said, I could not do ANY of the above moves with the wirelss PCB in the stock controll pad.
Also, I think Toodles, somewhere here, has done a more scientific measurement and noted that there is no appreciable lag.
Now with all the above said, it is very very very sweet to sit on the couch and play any fighting game on wireless joystick …
