Panda, it’s great to see you guys have a rivalry and it’s really awesome to have someone to grow with in VF. I’ve been lucky to have had Ray, some old VF3 players (Burnside being one of my favs), VF4 players (Shinryujin, Ricardo, Jason), and of course VF5 players (Andrew, now Simon too). It’s just been too awesome and it’s the best way to get so strong at VF.
I look forward to more sessions with you guys!
On to DEALING WITH ABARE: PART II!!!
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ABARE IN GENERAL
Let’s consider that there are two general ways of looking at abare.
Beginner Abare - as in attacking all the time (like someone who doesn’t know any better). Players who play like this are usually easy to deal with. Solid play usually gets them by blocking them and countering properly with the most efficient option (low punch or elbow), and then you keep attacking them in an endless cycle of you interrupting their attacks because they are attacking at a disadvantage. A common type of beginner abare is low-punch spamming. And dealing with this is easy with some practice–just get close enough to block a low punch, and elbow, and then roll with the advantage.
Effective Abare - someone who is more or less playing with the flow of the game properly, but is also using attacks or situations that have properties that break the normal flow of the game.
Here’s a list of some of these types of attacks that are often part of Effective Abare:
- Attacks that are faster than normal (Vanessa’s (DS) df+P, Lion’s Back-Turned K).
- Attacks that slide under certain other attacks (Kage’s df+P, Lion’s b+P, Shun’s f+P+K, etc…). You can also include super-low attacks like Shun’s d+K since even some mid attacks will whiff.
- Sabaki attacks (covered in the Sabaki section).
- Attacks that create an advantage, this is covered in “Is It Really Abare?”
- Stance switches that create “easy to whiff” situations for the opponent (Shun’s Drinking, Pai’s low stance, Jeffry’s P+K+G, Jacky’s back-step, etc…)
- Using a non-clashing attack while knowing that you, the person who now has the advantage, is going to throw.
So again, you have beginner abare which is similar to mashing or just attacking too much. And this style is easy to beat, you just play solid and you do some forward defense to create an advantage, and then keep taking advantage of the frame advantage. And then you also have the more dangerous abare, players who know what they are doing and are properly using moves and stances to punish your “typical response.”
Handling the effective abare player either requires a lot of safe play (and focusing your game more on punishing mistakes than proactively pushing the guessing game except at the right times) or it requires understanding why the typical flow broke for you. Much of this article assumes you are dealing with effective abare players. The next section is about taking the safe route. Other sections tend to focus on the things to look for and understand so you know why the flow has been disrupted.
NEUTRALIZING THE SITUATION: HARD TO ABARE AN “EFFECTIVE” CHICKEN
Let’s repeat something I said way early in this article:
“Playing with effective Abare is playing with exceptions and risk.”
The risk on the abare player’s part is an assumption about your inevitable attack, and what type of attack that will be. The exception means that your opponent is not using a typical low punch, elbow, or straight forward attack to beat out your right to attack.
To make it even more clear, the abare player assumes you will attack or do nothing (because if you do nothing, his attack will hit you anyways, so no worries there). If you stand and Guard, you are wasting your advantage like you might as well not have had it to begin with. It would be a waste to not use up your advantage right? And because logic says you should attack, an effective abare player will try to use something that will override your likely next attack.
These statements probably seem weird when you’re talking about most other fighting games. But VF is the fighting game where it’s super rare to have attacks that give you advantage on block (while it’s the norm for so many other games). And because of that, the game naturally flows back and forth between attacking and defending.
In any case, one method for dealing with abare players is to focus on punishing their mistakes and assumptions instead of going toe-to-toe with them. This is easier said than done in VF for a number of reasons. It’s normal in almost every other fighter, but VF truly was built to be a forward attacking game.
So let’s look at some of our obstacles to being a chicken first, and then let’s look at how we can be a damn good chicken in VF. It’s very useful to be able to chicken once in awhile and it’s a pain in the ass to deal with. Especially for an Abare player, effective or not.
Obstacle: Backdash isn’t fullproof - In VF, you can be punished or even combo’d out of your back dash. The reason for this is simple: you have a decent number of vulnerability frames when you do a backdash. This is designed to discourage chicken play overall. Because of these vulnerability frames, it’s even more difficult to run away when you are at a disadvantage (when you’ve been hit, blocked, interrupted, or whiffed an attack).
Silver Lining: The backdash vulnerability frames is something that mostly affects a neutral situation or a disadvantage situation. Backdash is actually a valid and decent option after you’ve hit the opponent, blocked them, or seen them whiff (though you really should attack a whiffing opponent). But we are talking about our opponents playing abare. If the opponent is truly playing abare, backdash actually works for us in these cases.
Better than a Backdash: A technique to be known and used in this situation, but not to be overused (because you will suffer for it) is backdash-evade. b,b,d,n or b,b,u,n. In VF, you have advanced movement which includes cancelling your dashes with evades and cancelling your failed evades with dashes (successful evades cannot be cancelled). Ray and I both use these a lot in our matches and it’s very helpful for zoning. However, just know that a forward moving circular attack (Vanessa’s f,f+K or Lion’s f+K+G or df+K+G) will completely own this.
Obstacle: Evading isn’t something to be used when you have the advantage - unless you intended to use the evade as a part of advanced movement, evading while you have the advantage is virtually an instant fail because you will be evading before the opponent attacks (because you had the frame advantage).
Silver Lining: Advanced movement is okay, because it thrives on failed evades anyway and the act of dashing is a form of throwing away frames to increase the odds that your evade will occur during your opponent’s inevitable attack. But you should not start your advanced movement with the evade, it should be the second or later part of the advanced movement sequence.
Why You Should Chicken: Being a chicken isn’t about constantly running away or always defending. It’s about capitalizing more on guarantees, forsaking a forced guessing game, and frustrating even the most clever abare style players. You do this by creating enough margin of safety for yourself and waiting for your opponent to do something “stupid.” You should definitely attack while playing chicken–but you should attack when your opponent makes the mistake or you have enough advantage to override his exceptional options. Furthermore, at anytime you choose, you can switch from being a chicken to being a pitbull and rushing your opponent like crazy when he isn’t prepared for it.
Ways You Can Chicken:
- Creating space (ie. backdashing or advanced movement) when you have small advantage (like after blocking a poke, hitting with a poke, or after they hit you with a sidekick or non-knockdown low attack).
- If after creating space, they try to attack and whiff, PUNISH THEM!
- Punish all whiffed attacks with an attack or dash in throw or similar.
- Poke to prevent rushing.
- Make use of advanced movement and advanced defense when you learn them (advanced steps, fuzzy guard, option selects like reversal-throw-escape-guard, etc…).
- Figure out what your whiff-punishing attacks are (Jacky’s db+P,K is guaranteed on mC).
- If your opponent PUSHES (see “Is It Really Abare?” section), you should PULL. It’s fun letting your opponent trip on his greed
This includes stance-switching that creates unique situations. You don’t always have to “play the game.”
What You Should Still Do:
- 50/50 Guessing game on big advantage (blocked a decently big attack, interrupted your opponent with an attack, etc…).
- Do Guaranteed Attacks on Block.
- Close the distance once in awhile, but don’t be obvious.
- Mix things up.
Playing chicken is valid in VF and with proper knowledge, it’s a style of play that can really derail the abare-style player. But it’s not full-proof against abare play either. If your chicken play is predictable, you’ll eat long ranged attacks or eventually get cornered. And when you are cornered, you have to play solid.
Most of the other techniques and situations in the rest of this post deal with understanding abare situations, and countering them directly, head-on (or knowing why sometimes you shouldn’t).
DILEMMA: IS IT REALLY ABARE?
There are situations where the attacking player isn’t really fighting from a disadvantage despite how things look.
The perfect example of this is your (Yanging’s) Kage after the opponent blocks uf+K+G. This is a neutral situation that looks like Kage is in disadvantage. Therefore it’s always tempting for the opponent to attack right away (and with it being a neutral situation, it really is both player’s right to do anything here), and your Kage likes to do a low P here because it’ll hit if the opponent does an attack that isn’t low P.
Lei Fei has setups in his game like this. PP being one of the most popular (stance switch and +1 advantage on block). Sometimes the situation is frame-neutral. But there are also times where Lei Fei really is in a small disadvantage except… he has created a special range between himself and his opponent that might be just outside of low punch/high punch/elbow range.
You have to be careful of these situations and figure them out. My response varies. I do like to attack directly and find the attack that works here. I’ve succeeded many times, but I’ve also fallen victim many times. When my head is cooler, I actually prefer to use these situations to zone the opponent, see if they will commit to abare and try to punish them for doing that.
In a lot of situations, I advocate what I said in the Chicken section: “If they push, you pull.”
Unless your opponent really set you up on accident (unlikely if he’s using the setup with any regularity), HE IS SO COUNTING ON YOU FALLING INTO THE TRAP. By pulling (creating space - ie. backdashing), it’s very likely that you’ll make his setup backfire and you’ll be able to react and punish. And if he catches on and backs off his plans, oh well, it’s a neutral situation and you didn’t get hurt
But recognizing when these situations occur and adjusting right away is a big part of neutralizing abare or at least, situations that “look like abare.”
EXTENDING YOUR MOVE KNOWLEDGE: SABAKI & LIMBS
Sabaki attacks were made for Abare style play and it’s good to know what sabaki attacks your opponent has. And if you don’t know which ones they have, at the very least you can try to understand which of your attacks are getting sabaki’d.
There are two key aspects regarding the sabaki of a sabaki attack.
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Sabaki Frames - When the attack sabakis is not the same across the board, it’s very specific to the sabaki attack itself. Some sabaki attacks have a fairly big window for sabaki (Shun’s BT Sou P+K is a good example). Some of them only sabaki late in the attack and some sabaki only at the beginning. The size of the sabaki window varies from the attack too.
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Limbs Sabaki’d - Sabaki attacks are not directed at the hit-type (high/mid/low) nor does it judge between punch and kick. Sabaki’s target a specific limbs, how many, and what attack level. Here’s a breakdown of the different types possible:
-Head
-Single Fist (low, mid, or high)
-Double Fist (low, mid, or high)
-Elbow (mid, or high)
-Single Foot (low, mid, or high)
-Double Feet
-Knee (low, mid, or high)
Which of these attributes gets sabaki’d is entirely up to the attack itself. For example, Lion’s qcb+P sabakis all of the following things:
-Knees (mid or high)
-Single Foot High (aka High Kick)
-Sidekick
-Single Foot Mid (aka mid kick–does not include spin kicks)
-Single Fist High (aka High Punch)
It is obvious that Lion’s Sabaki does not handle low attacks, but notice that it does not cover any type of elbow, or a mid-level fist attack.
If you know this, don’t overthink it or overapply it. You shouldn’t cut high punch, sidekick, or knee out of your game just because you know Lion has this sabaki. You should let your opponent’s gameplay tell you whether he’ll use the sabaki or not and in which situations you’ll lkely fall for it. You should definitely adjust as the match goes on or your experience with the player goes on, but you don’t have to nerf your character just because of threats on paper. Your opponent is the threat, not the movelist.
Given your experience with me, you’ll notice that like 80-90% of the times I do successfully hit you or Ray with Lion’s sabaki, it was in reverse-okizeme. It was me betting that you will try to hit me with a mid kick right after I tech roll or quick rise. I don’t do this all the time, which is why it probably surprises you guys and I pride myself on my “instnct” for when to bring out the sabaki. But it’s also partly that a lot of the best okizeme attacks aren’t that fast and you can kind of see them coming if you are looking for them. And if anyone plays as Jeffry, I’m always looking for that knee of his.
To bring this back to abare, sabaki is one of the weapons of choice for abare style play. It’s made for it, it’s made to overlap a unique set of the opponent’s attacks that’s much harder to generalize. It narrows the opponent’s game.
I’ve just given you the secret to my Lion’s Sabaki (what it does and when I actually use it most). Against Ray’s Vanessa, because the matches we’ve all had proves Ray will use the sabaki when his mindset is a certain way in the match (there are phases when he just won’t sabaki much, and moments when he realizes it’s a good toolset for the current series of skirmishes and start using them a bit more often), you will want to research Vanessa’s sabaki attacks–know which of her stances she has to be in to use them and what they sabaki–and when the time comes, be prepared to make those adjustments to your game (like using knees or mid kicks in close exchanges).
At intermediate and higher level play, cutting off the sabakis once you know they’re likely to get used is a great way to slowdown your opponent’s comfort with abare.