So I went ahead and built a prototype harness. I grabbed one of these:
and 4x of these:
I simply pushed the .187 connectors for the 2-wire harness into the rubber shrouds on the matching connectors on the Crown Conversion Harness, matching black to earth and red to live. I connected the other end of the Crown Conversion Harness into one of these:
Which was in turn connected to the Sanwa JLF stick.
The 2pin JST connectors were then plugged into the board. With the Sanwa JLF mounted in the case so the 5-pin connector is pointing away from the buttons, and using the coloured wires on the Crown Conversion Harness as a guide, mine maps as follows:
Red ā Down
Yellow ā Left
Orange ā Up
Green ā Right
This is working perfectly. Minimal hassle, zero soldering. Yes there is some excess cable, and yes now I know this works I will be creating a smaller, soldered harness, but this would be great for someone who wants to connect a Sanwa to the NES30 without doing anything complicated.
If I was going to leave this harness in place, I would probably tape up any exposed parts of the .187 connectors just to ensure I avoid any shorts, but the majority of the connectors are well within the rubber sheaths so this shouldnāt be an issue.
Very interesting wiringā¦ Can you share some images? I ended up soldering mine finally as the butt connectors i used were a little shoty, i was having intermittent signal issues.
Soldering worked 100% and iām really enjoying the NES30! Works great on my PC for SFV:AE and my Recalbox.
Hehe āinterestingā is one word for it Itās aināt prettyā¦but it works. It was only a POC so Iām not too worried about the mess - it wonāt be like it for long.
Hereās the NES30 with the Sanwa Buttons, Stick and the cables in place:
Here are a couple of shots of the 2.8mm crimp connected to the 4.8mm crimp on the Crown Harness, by being pushed inside the rubber sleeve on a slight angle - itās a tight, secure fit. Make sure you push them in as far as possible - needle nose pliers will help here. If youāre going to use the harness permanently, I recommend using some insulating tape to further secure the connections and insulate the exposed parts of the 2.8mm crimps:
Here you can see how I connected the JLF 5-pin female to female cable to both the stick and the crown harness - I thought Iād include this so people can see which way up the connectors should be pushed into place. Youāll be pushing into bare pins in both cases - so the connectors can be pushed on the wrong way around, then you end up connecting a ground wire to a live and spending 10mins wondering why your stick inputs arenāt responding properly!
For guidance, when plugging the 2-pin connectors into the board, mine went as follows:
Red-> Down
Orange-> Up
Yellow-> Left
Green-> Right
Iāve not gone back and taped up the exposed parts of the crimps yet because as I said, this was just a POC, and Iāll be making a much smaller harness with a more appropriate amount of cable for the case - but this absolutely works just fine. I could tape it up and be done with it, but Iāve never done any soldering or made a custom cable before, so Iād like the challenge of doing something new, and this seems like a simple place to start.
If you clean this up and make a custom harness youāll have created a kit that can help others. Hereās what mine looks like after the butt connectors. I was able to use all the original wiring aside from the 5pin harness connector off the Sanwa joystick:
The white wires originally connected to the NES30 joystick are 24AWG.
If looking down at the electronics, joystick to the leftā¦ All the top white wires for the directional controls are grounds. The bottom ones are signal for direction as labelled on the PCB.
Thanks to everyone here for sharing their findings, great community!
New guy here I just did all this with my nes30 upgrade with a Sanwa and the joystick just takes off to right direction. Could use some wisdom maybe forgot at step. Thanks
Anyone know if Seimitsu PS-14-GN (screw-in type) would fit in the 8bitdo N30 arcade stick? I know I could get snap-in buttons but some of the colors I want only come in the screw-in type.
I donāt think so. Thereās nothing for it to screw into. You should be able to see the mountings in the pics on my previous posts. Itās essentially just a notched hole in the thin plastic case.
I got an LS-40 with SS plate but I canāt figure out how itās possible to secure it to the case. Thereās no center screw holes on the case - only 4 outer ones and the SS plate screw holes can only line up with 2 at the top or 2 at the bottom since the SS plate is shorter than a normal plate. I know someone else had this issue but somehow figured out how to mount it - can anyone share a photo if youāve done this on the NES30? Iād really appreciate it!
HEy is there a way to put a silent stick (Sanwa) in the 8bitdo ? Iāve never moded anything but iām not 100% sure it will work (i mean plug & play) ?
If youāre using a TPRG (i.e. silent microswitches) the process is the same as installing a normal JLF. If youāre installing an optical itās mostly the same, youāll just need to power the optical pcb as well.
If you read through the thread there are multiple descriptions of how to get the Sanwa sticks installed - Iāve even provided a solderless method using off the shelf cables. Itās really very simple.
Iām trying to do a dual mod with this stick and a Brooks PS4 fighting board. Has anyone had any success with such a thing? I contacted the manufacturer and it does appear it is a common ground pcb when measuring with the multimeter. But once I wired it all together and connected it up, it gives a flashing green light as if itās connected to a PC.
Itās aināt prettyā¦but it works. It was only a POC so Iām not too worried about the mess - it wonāt be like it for long.
