you can use a small flat head screwdriver to slowly work the connector loose, You can also use a pair of pliers and pull straight (don’t twist or bend with pliers)
Don’t bend or twist the tabs on the buttons/switches. You can rock back and forth slightly along that tabs edge.
Are those twisted wires with zero insulation?
I am surprised I didn’t notice it before.
There a wide range of choices that would of been better than just leaving exposed wire twist together and just zip tying the wires.
I see where jopamo going with electrical tape, but electrical tape gets messy and can unravel.
What could of been done differently.
Wide range of crimp connectors can use used, from butt-end connectors, to matching sets of quick disconnects, pigtail crimps, ect.
3M’s Scotchlok connectors (you don’t even need wire crimpers, just a plain pair of pliers)
Using a barrier strip (both American and European styles are acceptable) Only tool you need here is a screw driver.
Solder and heat shrink ( a little advance for a beginner but if done right offers a clean but permanent connection)
You could even add wire nuts and electric tape, it’s not just inelegant, but also could come slowly undone.
I also shorten that wire up drastically, no reason for the joystick wire harness to reach all over the stick case.
In any electrical wiring, you want the shortest path possible.
I find that typically electric tape just does the job. And wire splices where you just tie wire together is a legitimate means of wiring, Westinghouse literally wrote whole manuals and textbooks on the topic , it almost reads like a Boy Scouts book on tying knots in rope. But most of those wire splices were intended during the early days when telegraphs were common. Nasa expanded on the idea, and added their own changes to the mix.
I think with a beginner the best option is 3M’s Scotchlok connectors, abet they are a bit on the pricy side of things.
Adding some crimp on end caps would be the cheaper option, and they can go over the existing wire splices easily and nicely.
So I replaced the stock mount with he ss plates but when I try to put it on the nes30 the plates in it won’t let me screw all 4 screws, I can only do the original stock plate not the Ss mount. Do I need to put both plates in?
No, you don’t need both plates.
And as long as the lever is solid and centered, you don’t actually need all 4 mounting screws.
Some casings, when you put in an SS plate, you end up just using the mounting hole that’s centered on each side of the plate. And that’s fine.
Thanks for the info it worked out great. But I was wondering is there any way I could remap the buttons to make them like the switch without always changing configurations?
So I’m looking at actually getting a Sanwa working in the 8BitDo, Katasiapa (or anyone): which of the connectors were signal versus ground in the four separate pairs? And what exactly are we doing, joining all the ground wires together? Just trying to figure out exactly what’s happening to go from the 5pin connector to the eight wires in the four pairs.
As it turns out, the problem was the inverse: severing the ground connections on the PCB itself resolved the issue after wiring directly to the switch connectors and ignoring the 5-pin completely.
Hi Jawdagger… I’m looking to do the same with the 8bitdo and a Sanwa stick. Would you be so kind enough to guide with me with some more details… What wiring and from where can i purchase. Also any steps and images would be greatly appreciated.
Hi Katasiapa… This is what i am looking to do as well! Can you be more specific on how you determined which coloured wires connect to the white and which black. How did you identify the ground wires to splice into the black ground off the harness?
Is there even a need to use a 5-pin harness? I’ve used jlf sticks in the past with individual microswitches just like that stock stick has, and it wasn’t an issue. Ican’t remember if I had to make any modifications, or if the gate just held them in place, but it worked.
Personally, I hate those circuit boards since they force you to replace all four microswitches at once.
I’m looking to pickup the 8bitdo N30 Arcade Stick to mod with Sanwa parts.
Yes, I know I could probably get the F300 cheaper, but it doesn’t have bluetooth and it sure as heck doesn’t look as nice (in my opinion - your mileage may vary).
I would really like to stick to genuine Sanwa parts and avoid clones, so I need to do something different to hook up the stick. I’d also like to avoid soldering and stick to connectors.
I was thinking that I would get one of these:
and replace the pairs of .187 connectors with 2pin JST XH female connectors, which should then plug straight into the board. I’d then connect the harness to the stick with one of these:
Will that work? Is there a better way? I’m assuming I’m missing something, because if it’s really this simple I’m surprised that nobody seems to make a 5pin to 4x 2pin harness!? (or do they!?!)