I haven’t done it specifically, but it’s just another PCB into a casing; there’s no reason it would be any different than installing any other PCB into this case.
My only real issue seems to be with the wiring from the top panel. Not sure which wire was going to what button. Tried reading the labeling on the PCB.
I think there’s a pinout somewhere earlier in this thread.
Though I believe that the pinout on the 360 and PS3 versions is slightly different.
Please tell me this will be available in Europe…
Wrong thread? 
Due to this crappy weather here in Houston finally had a chance to finish a personal project.
Hori V3
-Sanwa jlf
-2lb Spring
-Seimitsu Keiko Ball Top
-Sanwa Translucent Shaftcover/Dustwasher
-Seimitsu Keiko PS14GN Buttons
Also, i looked into installing a ls32 on this case. Its possible but i just went with a JLF cause it was a brain dead easy install and i didnt want the mounting screws to show on the CP.
I disassembled this stick before i modded it long ago. I didnt have the stock stick screws. NOt sure if they wouldve been long enough but I did have the mounting screws from a hori T5 and that did the trick.
I had a question about using the JLF with the mounting plate. It is to my knowledge that it is the cleanest way to mount it, but the stick shaft will rub the bottom. I have my stick open but am not sure where the mounting plate is screwed in. I have a picture for reference but am not sure how to post it from mobile.
Honestly the cleanest/easiest way to mount the stick is using the stock mount points without mounting plate. All you need to do is drill holes on the jlf gate where i marked in red. Once you do that just use screws. As i said in my earlier post, i didnt have the stock screws that came with the V3 so if those are long enough, use that if not, go to ace or somewhere and get screws that are long enough.
Ive modded alot of stick lately and forget if i needed spacers to get the mount height at 23/24mm or not.
There are a pair of posts w/ holes above and below the “square” where the stock joystick mounts.
The cleanest (but not easiest) to mount the JLF is without the mounting plate and without drilling the restrictor gate.
You would mount the JLF’s body directly, then the microswitches and restrictor gate fit over it as normal.
This was shown/discussed earlier in the thread, but the pictures are likely broken due to Photobucket being stupid nowadays.
ah, ok, just did it t5 style. good to know.
@FreedomGundam Could you pm me the .PSD for it as well? I recently got my hands on the PS4 bbcpex stick but the art has faded so im planning to get a plexi and new art for it.
EDIT: He sent it to me. Thanks!
is is possible for me to solder a 5 pin harness directly on the pcb? the dog chewed on the default 8 pin including its microswitches lol so im kinda fucked lol. My original choice was to buy a zero delay PCB but then it would be such a waste since this pcb works on ps4 tekken 7.
@FreedomGundam can i ask for advice on which left,up down and right on the pcb and where to wire the common ground?
@TastyWhiff
I’ve never played around with that version of the PCB, so I can’t say for sure off-hand.
If you provided clear pics of the front and back of the PCB, we could probably help. Doesn’t Hori label the through-hole solder point anyways?
They do label it on their other PCB’s but its different on the FSV3 so i cant tell which is which unfortunately since im a scrub lol.
Does anyone have the PSD for the art template for this stick?
Yes, seems like I’m the only one with it.