@original2k
I’m pretty sure the screws I used were 6-32 screws, with a flat/countersunk top. It’s been a while since I’ve done this mod.
Lenght-wise, something like 3/4", I think; I remember having screws that were too long, so I just used my Dremel to cut them to the appropriate length.
I’ve done one where I didn’t have any flat/countersunk-top screws on hand, so I used one with a regular pan-head ones, and used the Dremel to grind down the top so that it’s flatter.
@FreedomGundam makes sense to me, and thank you for the assist, yet again. better to work off something than nothing (btw- your ABS modular stick in your sig is perhaps the sickest stick i’ve ever seen in my life)
Years of heavy play on mine and I’m only just now starting to wear our the stock joystick. It’s getting loose. Switches all work just fine, it’s just the classic case of the stick wiggling from center. Think it’s possible to try other springs / parts from other sticks on this one?
If not, does anyone happen to have their original joystick for their VX that they’d be willing to sell? If so let me know how much. Or know where I can find one?
Thing is, I’ve been perfectly content with the stock stick in this thing and just don’t want to have to dremel off material to go up to a JLF. I mean I will if I have to but I’m gonna try everything else possible first.
I’m really surprised how well the stock parts held up in this thing and for so long. Even this stick the way it is is honestly in better condition than most of the parts at my nearest arcade. The finish on the panel was the least durable thing but that was no big deal – just sand papered the old crud off, and worked it with a very fine polishing pad until it was smooth. Looks better that way anyways, the color they used for the original finish is a very off white.
Bah, you should’ve messaged here a month ago. Mine had been sitting in a box for YEARS; about a month ago, I just gave the box (which contained a lot of entry-level joystick parts like levers and pushbuttons) to a colleague of mine who was coaching a local junior robotics team.
I always hated how they used that off-white for the panel. Even the casing, I always wished it was whiter.
I’m looking inside of it right now and how would I even wire a JLF into this thing? They have five pin harnesses, this thing has a harness with 8 wires. When I replaced the buttons I just spliced the wires onto each existing wire, buttons and common ground. I think I understand the dremeling and fitting process to get it to physically fit but I have no idea how I’m supposed to wire this up. I might end up having to replace this sooner than I thought, the longer I look at this and the more I think about it. For one thing it’s missing one of the insulated covers on one of the switches and the connection looks pretty poor, with some visible corrosion, so that’ll probably be the next thing to go, just a matter of time.
See a post from me a few pages back. The joystick pinout on the PCB is explained there for the FSVX:
Oh man. I was just about to edit my post quoting that very same thing, cause I found it but I’m still a bit confused on one thing. So with separate grounds all going into one, you’re saying I can just pick any single ground from the PCB and wire that? Or do I need to splice or use a terminal to get all of these 4 ground wires parallel to the one coming off the JLF’s harness? I’m just wondering what I’m going to do with all of these extra ground wires.
@slugnasty
It’s all common-ground, so just pick one. You can snip off the wires for the other 3 ground connections. The only reason there were 4 ground point to begin with is because the stock lever has the wires connected directly to the microswitches. You don’t need that with a JLF harness.
Let me know what screws you end up using, cause I’m probably going to be replacing my stick within the next week, just waiting on parts.
I ordered a bare JLF and am going to use the mounting method without drilling the restrictor gate, which was adapted from Laugh’s Paewang Revolution guide.
I just finished completely re-reading this thread from start to finish in one sitting and screw sizes are probably the only detail not completely worked out. Seems everyone used different ones. Looks like one guy was able to use the original stick’s screws from below the restrictor gate but above the switch PCB? Not sure how exactly he managed it or if he had to modify the screws.
Never thought I’d be doing this mod in 2016.
I remember using countersunk 4-40 screws to mount the JLF, after slicing off those little switch support “rings” from the JLF body.
I’ve used pan-head 4-40 screws as well when I didn’t have countersunk ones, but the head is normally just a little thick; so I’ve had to grind them down flatter with a Dremel in order for the switch PCB assembly to fit correctly.
Length-wise, I can’t really say for sure. I think a 3/4" would be fine; I just remember that my 1" 4-40 screws were too long so I just cut them to the length I needed.
Edit I just noticed I said pretty much the exact same thing one page earlier. 
Alright I’ve finished the work. I can confirm for posterity, and @original2k if he plans on doing his, 4-40 3/4" screws are just about perfect.
I used panhead screws cause my local hardware store didn’t have any flatheads in the size I wanted. They also didn’t have any flat ends, only the pointy ends like you would use with wood, but they were happy to grind them flat for me.
The panheads will of course screw right in, but as has been mentioned, it will add just enough space between the JLF body and the microswitch PCB that when you go to pop your restrictor gate on, they won’t all latch. @FreedomGundam describes grinding the screws but my dremel broke (great timing), so I just drilled into the body with a 1/4" drill bit to countersink, using a regular old cordless power drill, variable speed. Variable speed really helps for delicate drilling. I drilled in just enough so that the screws fit flush.
Another thing I discovered that I’ll leave here, is the Hori generic joystick that comes with this thing is more like 25-26mm from base to bottom of balltop, at least by my measurement. I’ve gotten so used to that height since this has been my main stick for years now, that I went ahead and widened the mounting holes just a bit deeper for a “custom” height, different from the standard 24mm for JLF. You actually have a lot of wiggle room for getting the height you desire when you mod this stick, since you’re hand fitting it.
Thanks to everyone who participated in this thread, and particularly FreedomGundam for the dedication and patience with this thing being bumped so many times. This is a great little stick and the information everyone figured out in here was invaluable in me finishing this project.
Upgraded my V3
hi, guys. can i have a copy of PSD file for the FSV3? been searching the net with no luck. thanks!
I need the PSD as well 
Got you covered.
Hi freedom, can I get the psd as well?
I’ll also need a copy if that’s ok.
I would also like to get a copy of the template PSD.
On another note has anyone tried installing a Brook Universal PCB into one of these?