Alright I have one more question. In regard to the JLF, I am using Laugh’s guide to mount it, but I’m not quite sure about what to cut off. I know it’s the raised circular bit where the screws will go, but I’m wondering whether I can take off the prongs right next to the circular part. Here’s a picture of what I mean: http://imgur.com/BjzyuD0
I can’t tell if those parts hold in the switches or not, and Laugh’s guide doesn’t really show or say anything about them. It would make removing the round parts really simple.
To answer the first part of your question, the tabs that Laugh cuts off are the two tabs on the left and right side of the body. You would remove these to make the body base ‘square’, then use the screwholes right next to the prongs you highlighted.
EDIT: I realise you’re not talking about those at all. Yes, I would recommend leaving those posts alone.
@Quinn95
If you’re using the stock PCB for the switches, those little tabs don’t do anything.
They’re more in-use when you replace the switches-PCB with individual switches.
ok, so it’s started to rust as you have mentioned, and I am going to take things apart and fix the the metal plate.
just need some help with some metal work knowledge.
so I am going to sand off the weldbond residue, and then put anti rust paint on it, but anti rust paint is oil based
doesn’t oil base hurts plastic? the paint label doesn’t say if it contains petroleum
after the paint dries out, will it still hurt plastic case of the joystick if the metal plate comes in contact?
If you’re concerned, just make sure your painted metal panel is fully cured before you reassemble. That duration usually depends on the paint, but oil-based paints can take up to a week (after it’s already dry) to fully cure.
Final update on my V3. Swapped in Kuro buttons, painted the panel buttons black, slapped a sticker on the side and did my best at cleaning up the wiring. Here’s a few pics.
I have been using the PS3 version on PC, and now have a 360 so… I’m considering my first dual mod. Is it difficult with the stock PCB? If I dual mod, can I still have function of the turbo panel even in 360 mode?
I’m considering a PS360+ or similar, do those have support for the turbo panel slider functions?
Turbo sliders are usually very specific to the PCB that supports them.
Unless you get your hands on the equivalent FSVX PCB to dual-mod, you’re likely to lose functionality of the Turbo sliders on anything other than PS3, and that’s assuming you keep the stock PCB for PS3-mode.
The stock PCB is fairly easy to mod; most contact points are clearly labeled and everything.
If you want to keep the original PCB, you’ll need to get yourself an Xbox360 PCB and an ImpV2.
Putting a PS360+, you will lose the turbo functionality and the LS/DP/RS feature as well.
Thanks, I’ll try my luck at finding a 360 ver. of the PCB. If anyone has a spare please consider hitting me up on Trading Outlet
So it’s quite certain that if I get the 360 version of the PCB, I can have turbo functions on both? Just hoping to make sure I’m not going through trouble for nothing.
In theory, that should work.
However, note that I’m pretty sure NO ONE has ever tried, because no one ever cares to maintain the turbo functionality anyways.
Final redo
Used oil based rust paint on the metal surface, took a couple weeks to work everything out
then used Con-Tact Brand adhesive clear covering to wrap around the plate, then used double sided tape from dollar store to stick my surface of choice, comfortable kitchen mats, to the plate.
then I bought some insulated quick disconnects from local electrical supply store, 100 for 6 bucks is pretty good deal, but I couldn’t use these until I spent another 9 bucks for the crimping tool.
total amount of $ spent
55 bucks for the stick and buttons
7 bucks for a can of rust paint
6 bucks for 100 quick disconnects
9 bucks for a crimping tool
3 bucks for a kitchen mat
1.5 for the double sided tape
I just got a Toodles Imp v2 to put in my Hori FSV3, as suggested here (don’t got the 360 PCB yet though) I plan on mounting it ontop of the existing PCB (after shorting the proper jumpers) and wiring it according to the directions at http://godlikecontrols.com/imp2.pdf
I have a few questions:
There are two Black USB wires. Which do I use to wire to ‘G’?
Anything else I’m missing? Also what’s a good way to attach that PCB securely to the other one?
Here’s a diagram I MSpainted with the toodles ontop of the stock PCB. Does this look straight? Thanks
EDIT: Does it matter if the 360 PCB I get is common ground or not? Will just about any work?
Hey, just a quick question, how would you go about installing art on the V3? I looked over a few pages of this thread and the sticky’s but couldn’t find anything regarding this stick in particular. I did read something about Lami-Label and plexiglass but I’m not sure how that works, if its like a sticker or you have to open up the stick. But ya if anyone can point me in the right direction that will be a huge help, I’m still really new to this stuff haha.
It’s definitely been discussed in this thread.
Current stock art is a foam-ish sticker; you’ll need to peel that off.
For your new art, you’ll either need to get a lamilabel (a laminated sticker) or any other type of adhesive art to replace it, or get someone to cut you a sheet of matching plexiglass so that you can sandwich regular paper-printed art between that and the metal panel.
First mod and first stick. I dont think I’m going to show insides its not too pretty in there
Sanwa jlf with the switches in the PCB and sanwa buttons. FA Nippon bi color ball. Waiting on a plexi so i can put some art on it and finish it off (:
The stick works perfectly fine for a while but then it dies-- it gets stuck on the last input entered (usually something on the stick) or it winds up undetected by windows. Tested on every USB port on his machine, and every other USB device he has works properly. He sent it back thinking it might have been defective, but the new one has the same issue.
We guess its a driver problem, but does anyone have advice on how to fix this?
