NEW Hori Fighting Stick VX (360) & V3 (PS3) Thread

Tech Talk
661

No.
The recommended method is to:

  1. crimp your wire to the QD as normal
  2. solder the other end of the wire either:
        • spliced to the existing button-sub-PCB
        • or the sub-PCB’s wire-ribbon after you’ve cut it
        • or directly to the main PCB.
  1. connect the QD to your buttons as normal
662

Pick a ground, any ground.

Most of the contacts on the main PCB are labeled on one side or the other, like the buttons.

For the FSVX:
Joystick pinout, it’s like I posted on the previous page:



(From top to bottom)

Ground
Ground
Ground
Down
Up
Left
Right
Ground

USB pinout:



(From top to bottom)

Vcc
D+
D-
Ground
Ground

Home/Start/Back



smaller ribbon cable from top PCB
(From top to bottom)

blah
blah
blah
blah
blah
LB (duplicate)
RB (duplicate)
Home
Start
Back
663

quick question, what button layout do these sticks use?

664

It resembles an Astro City 2P side button layout but, the spacing is slightly different IIRC.

665

I though it was a vewlix layout , but i can be wrong

666

@Rictorxix‌
That’s incorrect.
@Darksakul‌ is right. It’s actually the Vewlix layout, although the button holes in relation to the joystick hole is off by a few millimeters.

667

I think because at this point Hori no longer has the Vewlix license, they set there layout to be slightly off.
Same how the Mad Catz and Razer version of the layout is slightly off.

668
669

thanks alot guys. im off when it comes to layouts lol

670

Oh I just remember something about Hori naming schemes

FS = Fighting Stick, used often in non-premium or budget sticks (used in front)
RAP = Real Arcade Pro. Premium Line sticks (often used with the suffix Pro)

W = Wireless

First Digit
V= Vewlix
A = Astro
N = Namco Noir

Second Digit
2 = PS2
3 = PS3
4 = PS4
X \EX = Xbox 360
(There not yet a stick announced for the XB1)

Pro = Professional/Premium line (often seen together with the abbreviation R.A.P.)
Pro are usually seen with premium parts such as Sanwa, Seimitsu or Hayabusa/Kuro Parts.

SA= Sanwa
SE= Seimitsu
Hayabusa/Kuro parts are denounced with the Hayabusa kanji 隼

Kai = Revised model or 2nd edition
(In Japanese, Kai has a number of meanings, including “ocean” (海), “shell” (貝), “restoration” and “recovery.”)

So a FS V3 is a (6 button) stick with a Vewlix layout for the PS3. (the whole thread based on the FS V3 and FS VX)
And the Hori Rap V3 Pro SA Kai is a (8 button) with a Vewlix layout for the PS3 stick with full Sanwa parts, 2nd or revised edition.

Spoiler

http://static.giantbomb.com/uploads/original/12/121177/1707512-hrap_3sa_w.jpg

a Hori Rap 2 SA (A2 ?)

http://images.g4tv.com/ImageDb3/281384_LGST/hori-v3-fighting-stick.jpg

Hori FS VX

http://www.arcadeshock.com/images/l_PS3%20Real%20Arcade%20Pro%20N3%20SA_002%20(2)%20copy.png

Hori Rap N3

http://4u.pacn.ws/640/h8/hori-wireless-real-arcade-pro-v3-sa-310149.3.jpg

Hori W Rap V3 Pro SA

671

awesome info man, im a hori fan

672

The definition is correct (revised, modified, etc), but while the pronounciation is identical, I don’t think Hori has ever hinted at any other kanji being used other than the actual “改” that’s used the HRAP VX/V3 Kai.

Or are you just saying

In which case, I still agree with you. :smiley:

673

Before I place my (second) order from Focus Attack, I figured to check if my plan was adequate.

So currently I have:
A ton of 22 gauge wire.
QD button connectors (two wire inputs, insulated) to connect a wire coming from the button to the wire attached to the motherboard
A JLF
6 Buttons (already in place)

I got the buttons in, but realized my plan of soldering a wire to the buttons and then using a connector to attach it the the spliced ribbon wire might not be the best of plans, so now I’m going to order some Quick Disconnects from FA to attach a wire to the buttons and then use a butt connector to connect that wire to the spliced wire.

My questions are basically: I need the .110’ Quick connectors for the OBSF 30mm Sanwa buttons, correct? And also, do I need to use an insulator for the .110 quick connectors? From the picture they don’t look insulated.

Here’s a link to the quick connectors if it helps my post make more sense.

674

@Quinn95‌
Normally, unless you have lots of random open electronics loosely flailing around inside your case, QDs with insulation aren’t really necessary.
I started out using only insulated QDs, until I discovered I can pack my wiring A LOT tighter and neater with uninsulated ones. Never had a problem with them that way.

675

I was going off the use of Kai in Hori products names, and I am not knowledgeable of actual Kanji so I wanted to cover my bases.

You don’t need the insulate sleeves per-say but they give a better “presentation” and the extra insulation would not hurt.

What I done in the past was taken some thermal shrink wrap where I wanted extra insulation and didn’t care about who sees the wiring.

676

That would be THESE, right?

And the .110 inch is the correct size for the Sanwa buttons?

677

Yes those plastic pieces and yes the .110 are the right size quick disconnects.

I hope you got the pliers wire crimpers that would work with those quick disconnects.

678

I have a tool that works on the butt connectors, but they are just cylinders. Would it be terrible to use pliers?

679

There are also this kind of quick disconnects

They come with their own insulators and your tool would work better with these.
And they still come in the same sizes.

680

I know this is a late post, but here’s my mod for Hori V3 FS.

  • Original panel art from Boss Logic but I added spidey to complete my UMVC3 team.
  • Placed plexiglass on top of art and original metal plate is beneath it (sort of a sandwich).
  • Translucent Sanwa buttons with custom graphics and silencers.
  • Changed wiring to quick disconnects like everyone else.
  • Changed ball for translucent Seimitsu red balltop.

Front panel

Wiring