oh right i do have that short piece of scrap split loom wrap which is the perfect size…
i’ll fix it once i get some more jacks…
Hey guys, a few questions here.
1). About connecting the buttons to the PCB after removing the board under the buttons: According to this thread, first I need a few quick disconnects and a soldering iron; then refer to the page 5 diagram, is this correct?
2.) Which quick disconnects are compatible with the VX and where can I buy them? Would these do?link
.110 is the standard but if you have to you can use .187
.187 QD’s are the standard size for the microswitches on the joystick
.110 are for the microswitches on the buttons
Did you fix yours? I just bought one for my brother and it’s got the exact same problem. Works on the pc with the HORI drivers, but doesn’t work on any Xbox we tried it on.
Anyway to make the V3’s stick a little less loose?
change out your microswitches, spring and gate to the same ones in a JLF?
i know i did this for a T6 and it felt pretty good after prolonged use
…or just get a JLF? lol
I actually did a search in the forums and found this video, where the person places an LS-33 spring inside a JLF spring to make it tighter.
[media=youtube]L67fUfH3S5o[/media]
Would that work for this stick? The stick in the V3 is already a JLF right? Just some Happ generic stick?
its not a jlf that’s stock inside the V3, unless its a V3 SA
its a generic hori OEM joystick, not the JLF
How would i be able to put a different skin on this fightstick? any idea where i could get them?
lately i find myself preferring the stock buttons and sticks from Hori and Madcatz cuz their just a bit stiffer which is better suited to my play style… I just wish they didnt break down after a while (not that i’ve ever played so much to wear the buttons out).
Anyone know if the VX is going to be deactivated for good? I was going to pick one up but they’ve skyrocketed in price and everyone seems to be out of stock.
First I want to say thanks for the art template
I got the V3 coming soon and it’s pretty much my first real stick so Im rather excited.
but I don’t trust myself to solder all that much so I think Ill wait till it’s older and starting to wear a bit before I try.
I did however want to use some custom art. Is it possible to at least swap the art with out soldering it doesn’t look like you can get the buttons out without removing the daughter board
Have to desolder and solder.
okay thanks. Ill put that project on the back burner till I wear the stick out some then. I don’t really want to mess with it when it’s brand new thanks
Is the Seimitsu LS-32-02 a drop in for this stick? Do I have to do any other modding to make it fit?
So I got my stick in the mail today and I quite like it. The ball top feels a bit loose but Im not having any problems outside me sucking and learning to adapt. (I always manage to jump by accident when doing quarter circles and such)
but I like it can’t wait to get used to it
I did it How to put a LS-32-01 in a Hori MVC3 and HRAP VX-SA
I’m not sure what a LS-32-02 is though
EDIT: yeah that mounting plate gets no love. you really need a LS-32-01. or you could buy the mounting plate you need. or sell the LS-32-02 and buy a LS-32-01.
ls-32-02 is the same as ls-32-01 I believe
you were putting it to the hrap vx sa and this thread is about FS VX and V3, totally different sticks.
I haven’t purchased the LS-32-02 yet, but I prefer Seimitsu over Sanwa. That kind of sucks.