NEW Hori Fighting Stick VX (360) & V3 (PS3) Thread

oh ok. I was reading it as vx-sa and v3-sa but its really about the hori vx which is closer to an ex2. I think they are plastic. your going to have the same problems people have installing the ls-32-02 in the datel/paewang. you will have bolts on top so you might need to do art or something to cover the screw holes.

Can the mounting plate be removed? I guess it would be easier to just go with a JLF…

you can certainly remove the ls-32-01 S plate, but i think you will have to shave the 4 plastick post to mount the hori or JLF, then you will probably have to destroy the stock art to take the metal face plate off, then drill counter sink holes to mount the LS-32-01, i am not sure whether the bottom plate will snap back on though, you might have to sand it to avoid stick grinding the bottom plate.

The mounting plate can be removed, you just have to be careful with stripping the screws. Same thing for the JLF though. If you can get the stick w/o mounting plate then thats your best bet.

edit - You could actually get away with replacing the microswitches and spring. I think Darksakul did this already

That’d probably be cheaper as well. Has that been posted in the thread somewhere?

lol yes NEW Hori Fighting Stick VX (360) & V3 (PS3) Thread

the last few pages have lots of content and advice.

Well crap. That is super easy.

Could I get away with dropping Sanwa microswitches and jlf microswitch board? Soldering isn’t an issue so I’m just curious if I can drop it all in and wire it up?

From what I understand, yeah.

Just the microswitches, yes. Darksakul did it here: NEW Hori Fighting Stick VX (360) & V3 (PS3) Thread

I’m not sure if you can transplant in the entire JLF microswitch PCB, though.

I wouldn’t recommend it. If you see what Darksakul did, he took switches from a JL**W **and modified the switches to fit inside the existing stick molding. If you look at the switches on a JLF (MS-O-02), they aren’t your standand switches. You’re better of getting switches from a Seimitsu stick… Either use the entire JLF w/ some modification, or just drop in switches and springs that are similar to the ones already in the stick.

Got my Fighting Stick VX last week. Kept it at the office for a couple of days just so colleagues could have some fun with a stick; it’s not like I cared much for the stock parts anyways.
I told myself I wouldn’t open it up until I got all my modding parts (ChImp from Toodles, and new top-panel from blklightning), but I caved it and gutted the thing from top to bottom on Sunday. Fortunately, I got my PCB from Toodles on Monday.

Anyhow; I’m still missing my top-panel, so I can’t complete my work, but here are some pics of the WIP.

Changes to the stock Xbox360 PCB:

  • desoldered, repositioned and resoldered that capacitor on the bottom of the PCB to give more clearance to the ChImp
  • hot-glued a few plastic posts to prevent the PCBs from bumping into each other
  • soldered in a couple of wires that’ll go to the ChImp’s screw terminals

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e18/tidalwav/joysticks/Hori-FSVX/hori_fsvx1.jpg

Changes to the ChImp:

  • cut off many of the ribbon cables to the original FS VX PCB, and soldered them directly to the ChImp. I wanted to reuse as much of the disconnecting ribbon cables as possible

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e18/tidalwav/joysticks/Hori-FSVX/hori_fsvx2.jpg

Combination of the two:
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e18/tidalwav/joysticks/Hori-FSVX/hori_fsvx3.jpg
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e18/tidalwav/joysticks/Hori-FSVX/hori_fsvx4.jpg

Mounted back into the casing:
It’s actually missing about 1.5 to 2mm of clearance for the combination PCBs. I made a couple of small plastic spacers, and everything fit nicely. You can barely tell that there’s a second PCB!

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e18/tidalwav/joysticks/Hori-FSVX/hori_fsvx5.jpg

I will be connecting my main buttons and stick via the ChImp’s screw terminals. The daughter-board with Back/Start/Home will still be connected by the stock ribbon cables.

Excellent technique! Can’t wait to see the final result :slight_smile:

You will be gettin that soon. Did you find a good deal on that FSVX?

I look forward to getting the panel!
I just nabbed the FSVX from Amazon… fortunately, I got my hands on a small gift card… better than nothing, I guess. :slight_smile:

Finally got around to working on this. Still need to swap out the stick, but dropped Sanwa buttons in there, and hooked up a ChImp.

http://p.twimg.com/ApMbZ7fCIAA_myR.jpg:large

The wiring isn’t great, but it’s functional!

http://p.twimg.com/ApMbz1rCQAAhZ2s.jpg:large

On my V3, the screw slots for the mounting plate aren’t threaded. Were yours or did you just secure it with big enough screws to effectively secure it to the holes? If the latter, do you remember how big the screws were?

i don’t remember to be honest
i just used a random set of screws i found and it threaded themselves and worked

Works for me. That will save me time and effort. Thanks, man.

i mean if anything, you can always fill it with bondo or some form of hardener, then drill a pilot hole and affix your screws in place