yep just like you see on some screwless customs. The case is small enough that this should not be a problem it was tested out and worked out fine. The main reason it is only available as screwless is because i did not have the case long enough to figure out what type of screws they actually were. I do believe they were some type 23s though.
I just investigated this last night, and it doesnāt look like you can pull the same trick as the JLF. There arenāt any holes in the LS-58 that line up with the stock stickās mounting holes like there are with the JLF, and I canāt find a way to add new holes to the LS-58 that wouldnāt do significant damage to the switches, pcb, and the holes that the restrictor plate screws into.
Seems like the SS plate might work (though you might have to remove the stock stickās mounting holes/that square bit of plastic that it rests in), but I donāt own one, so I canāt test it out myself.
Hey all,
Iām looking for a cheap good quality arcade stick mainly for the PC.
I was think of either getting this Hori V3 (since it is USB, It should work for PC) or a Madcatz TvC Stick and getting a mayflash convertor to work with PC.
I can get the TvC one from ebay for about $45 and the convertor is about $10 so $55 together, or I can get the Hori V3 for $60 +tax from amazon.ca. Which one is better?
Iāve heard good things about the stock parts in the TvC stick. Theyāre not Sanwa, but I hear they work well enough and the joystick uses actual Omron switches. And when the parts start to fail on you, itās a million times easier to replace the parts in the TvC stick than it is in the Hori V3.
Although if I was to choose between those two sticks, Iād go with the V3 only because it is 6 buttons which I prefer, and Iām not afraid to get in there with a soldering iron and wire crimper to mod it with Sanwa parts.
So correct me if Iām wrong but here is how I see it interms of quality.
Considering all have stock parts and not considering Premium sticks or TE/HRAP sticks:
Madcatz Brawl Stick > Madcatz TvC stick > Hori V3/VX > Hori FS3/EX2 > Madcatz SE > Mayflash/Generic noname stick
Please correct the above if Iām wrong.
All just my opinions, so take with a grain of salt.
Stock quality out of the box:
Madcatz Brawl Stick > Madcatz TvC stick > Hori V3/VX > Madcatz SE > Hori FS3/EX2 > Mayflash/Generic noname stick
Stock quality with be buttons replaced (stick replacement is optional, IMHO, and doesnt change the tier chart):
Hori V3/VX > Madcatz Brawl Stick = Madcatz TvC stick= Madcatz SE > Hori FS3/EX2 > Mayflash/Generic noname stick
Relative easiness of doing those button mods (left side easiest, right side hardest):
Madcatz Brawl Stick = Madcatz TvC stick= Madcatz SE > Hori V3/VX > Hori FS3/EX2 > Mayflash/Generic noname stick
Well I own an SS plate, so Iāll give it a try. Itās something I havenāt 100% fleshed out yet since my stick is still a WIP.
If the SS plate works, then awesome. Iād rather have the balltop sit higher than have to deal with grinding out the bottom of the case. That being said, itāll take a bit of work, since the stick sits at the same height on the VX even with the SS due to the VXās stock Hori mounting posts. Youād have to cut them out so the plate actually rests inside that center area.
I suppose Iāll let you guys know later.
Hey, thatās my case! lol.
Still working on my build, but I was able to use it last weekend quite successfully. Already have a CHIMP in it, but itās definitely a WIP (going to dye the plastic bezel light blue, amongst some other mods.)
Really excited to see a nice plexi for this stick out there, though. Mine (apparently?) isnāt the final product, just something temporary blklightning21 was generous enough to send me when he returned my case. (Thanks again!)
Youāll notice that I didnāt use the āfrictionā method and actually dremeled out holes for the screws. On the final plexi I receive I wonāt do this, well, not unless I can find some nice anodized screws that will fit. (VERY unlikely. So friction method it is!)
I was hoping the TE bolts would be workable (I have a bunch in various colors), but it isnāt even possible to expand the holes to accommodate them. Ah well!
Also, yes, I have a 24mm button in there, if only so I have proper taunt placement when playing Taokaka. Iām REALLY loving this stick, itās pretty much replaced my TE.
Also, yep, thatās the LS-58 in there. Iāve been using it and just ignoring the grinding issues for the meanwhile. (Itās noticeable, but doesnāt seem to get in the way TOO much. As mentioned in a previous post Iām trying to find a work-around other than grinding out the caseā¦)
Yeah, throwing in an SS plate is going to be pretty destructive, but if you give it a shot, Iād be really curious to hear how it goes. If I have my math right (a big if), it seems like an SS plate with 2mm washers/spacers would allow the stick to clear the bottom, and still be within 3mm of a JLF, which seems pretty good to me.
Where did you get the mounting plate for a 58, by the way? I havenāt been able to find anyone that stocks them. Theyāre different than the 32/40 S plate, right?
Got nothing to lose. Not like Iāll ever re-use those Hori mounting holes, and removing the posts will be easier (and less risky) than drilling out the bottom of the case. (even if you go through the top, no harm done, itās all covered up and doesnāt effect the mounting of a Seimitsu/Sanwa stick.) I wouldnāt even need the washers if I strategically left 2mm worth of mounting posts.
The S plate I got from Videogamesnewyork. The LS-58 and 56 are pretty much the same stick, big different being tension and throw. The plate is for a 56, but looking around online there arenāt S-plates for the 56 either. Iām thinking itās the standard LS-32 plate and that it fits just fine on the 58. (I have already attached it to confirm that it fits correctly; It does.) Not 100% sure, though. VGNY did have the plate specifically grouped with the 58 series, not the 32, in their display case. (Bought it in person.) Technically it may be the āSSā plate, and not an āSā plate? Iām not sure if thereās a difference, I assumed there was not.
Akihabarashop appears to sell the LS-58 with an S-plate. But not separate. Seems a bit odd.
Hey everyone. Iām new to the forum, and Iām currently planning to mod this stick.
The new buttons and stick I wanted to get came in the mail today, but unfortunately I didnāt get the wiring harness for the JLF I got. Is there a way to still get it to work with the stock wires, or do I absolutely need the harness?
Just need to get this in particular sorted out; I have everything else in order.
Trying to use whatās there without the JLF harness would definitely require soldering, and isnāt recommended.
The best answer is to use a JLF harness, and connect the wires to the matching wires on that 8 wire connector that plugs into the main board. Althought itās best if you use soldering for that, its not 100% required.
The only option I can think of that doesnāt involve soldering is to get a JLF harness, and crimp the pins to put one of those 8 pin connectors on the end of the JLF harness. The connectors and crimp pins are pretty cheap, too, but they can be frustrating to get right, so make sure to get a bunch of extra crimp pins.
hi im new here.
Iām currently in the midst of modding my hori vx but I canāt seem to get the stick out of the panel. The ball wonāt come off the stick and i see no other way of getting it out. Iāve had no problem with the rest of the modification and iāll be fine with dropping the stick in but the stock stick just wont come out.
[LIST=1]
[]Open up the bottom panel
[]Observe the stock Joystick, at the bottom of the shaft there will be a screw that is for flat head screwdrivers
[]Hold the ball top with one hand and unscrew the joystick counter clockwise (lefty-loosey)
[]And you should feel tension released
[/LIST]
I hope this helped
Alrighty then; I ordered a harness and Iāll wait for that to come in. In the meantime Iāll just switch out the buttons for now.
Yes, it is working now thank you so much. Can finally start wiringā¦
So just to be clearā¦
From what Iām reading, to mount a JLF in this guy Iāll have to thin out the bottom plate of the case and mount it without a plate by drilling through the restrictor plate?
One or the other. If you mount it with the plate, youāre risking some grinding (not everyone has this problem, but stillā¦), and will likely have to scrape out some space on the bottom plate. Instead, you can drill through the restrictor, and mount it without a plate, which will set the stick a little higher and avoid the problem altogether. Itās sort of up to you whether you prefer the standard height but messed up case or the slightly higher, modified stick, but pristine case.
Personally, I feel like the restrictor plate holes are the easier and less risky option of the two, but neither of them seem particularly crazy or hard to do.
Alright, here are my buttons, and they all work. A surprise for my first mod, lol. I havenāt actually switched out the joystick yet, but I put in the new battop anyway just to see how it looks.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n163/model-X/hoributtonmod.jpg
I just received this stick on Saturday from Amazon. Iāve never used a stick before in my life and wanted to start with this one to get my feet wet, so to speak. Iām very interested in modding it, but I must askā¦and forgive this noob question but, does switching out the buttons and stick really make that much of a difference? Again, Iām new to sticks in general but I do see a lot people praise Sanwa partsā¦