Fighting Stick EX2 and Fighting Stick 3 are both last generation entry level sticks while the VX and V3 are the current entry level sticks. Generally newer remodeled sticks are built more efficiently/easier to mod, this goes same for the VX line-up.
You can do either one of two depending on your current status:
Buy a Hori Fighting Stick VX for $68 from Amazon and:
-buy parts over time to mod it. Stick requires electrical know-how like soldering and shaving the bottom part of the plastic case for an aftermarket stick.
-I donāt use Sanwa but the parts are what I listed in my previous post.
-90% of the current line of arcade sticks(Mad Catz, Hori, Qanba and etc) use 30mm push buttons(24mm for Start and Select/back for some sticks).
-Stock Fighting Stick parts are Hori clone buttons for cost efficiency, Hori parts are use-able for general gaming but never as good as Sanwa or Seimitsu.
Buy a Hori Real Arcade Pro VX-SA
-No mods required out of the box.
-Comes with arcade standard parts(Sanwa) with ease of mod-ability which means it comes with quick disconnects(unscrew the bottom plate off and just unplug wires, swap parts and plug wires back in).
-No soldering needed.
-If you factor in cost of parts of modding the FSVX, youāre saving roughly $10 - $20. Stick($25)+ 6 buttons($18) and FSVX($70) = $113 and donāt forget about paying shipping for the parts and the trouble youāll have for soldering and electronic work vs the HRAP VX-SA($120).
The reason why people tend to buy the FS V series sticks are personal preference due to form factor. I have 2 HRAP V3(one stock and one custom because my friend donated an empty case to me) and 2 FSV series sticks(V3 and VX), I prefer the Fighting Stick because it is smaller and comes with 6 buttons instead of 8. I goto a lot of local casuals and tourneys so itās much more easier than lugging around my smaller sticks(Tek Innovations stick, EXAR stick) than my other bigger sticks I have(HRAP.EX, HRAP V3s and HRAP VLX).
One can possibly avoid soldering with the VX/V3 fighting stick. You can cut the wires that connect to the PCB, and then figure out a way to remove the PCB board (desoldering is probably the fastest way, though). To connect new buttons, you can run all the wires through a barrier strip.
Thanks for the information guys. It seems like the better choice would be the Real Arcade Pro VX SA. thanks for the help. I still want to mod my Real Arcade Pro VX SA. Probably just artwork. Anyone point me to the correct link please
Hello SRK forum. I just bought a new hori real arcade pro vx sa fightstick for my 360. I really like the button layout but donāt like the 4 way gate for the joystick. After doing some research they said I should get a Sanwa GT-Y Octagonal Restrictor plate. They show how to guides for other stick but not for mine. I just want to know if I should just do the same what iāve seen for the later models. If someone has a link on how to preform this that would be awesome. Iām just a bit paranoid on screwing up my new stick.
Firstly, thatās not a 4 way gate, rather a square gate.
4-way joysticks imply that there can only be 4 inputs specified for the joystick, Up, down left and right.
all fighting games use 8way controls and that is the same for the joysticks
Restrictor gates however are what you are talking about.
It seems as though you could install the GT-Y restrictor gate the same way you would in the pineconeattack tutorial on modding an EX2.
Personally, I would just tell you though to suck it up and get used to the square gate. If you ever need to bum a stick in a tournament, odds are the joystick youād get would have a square gate installed.
Except RandomRetto posted his question in the wrong thread. The VX-SA has a sanwa JLF and replacing the gate is really simple - just pop off the four clips that hold the gate and then pop in the new one. You can probably find a video on youtube that shows this.
Ok I have done the damn daisy chain like 3 times now and all I get is the A button working . This isnāt my first mod but is my first using the stock pcb Iām modding a vx btw any help would be appreciated thanks
Update : I figured out the problem I didnāt have my qdās put on correctly so I stripped em off and soldered the wires onto the qdās and problem solved (starting said project at 2am on christmas eve in hindsight was a poor choice)
Is there any way to install the LS-58 without the mounting plate? Or is it only possible on the JLF series?
I fully modded my VX and temporarily put in a JLF. I would rather switch to the LS-58 or LS-40 as soon as possible. Preferably the 58.
Would using the SS mounting plate avoid the grinding issue? I have a dremel, and I have a ton of soldering experience, but when it comes to things like using a grinderā¦ Iām pretty sure Iāll get impatient and go right through the bottom casing.
I know that installing the 58 without the plate (or with an S plate) will likely mean that the ball sits higher than āregulationā since they apparently sit at the correct height with the stock MS plate. I donāt think Iād mind this, or have any problem getting used to it, if itās an acceptable solution to avoiding the grind-age.
If anyone has advice on this it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Just got linked to this thread after making my own about my issue, but would somebody please help me out?
Hereās what I posted in my thread:
"I just got the HORI Fighting Stick VX today.
I ordered it brand new off of Amazon.
I took it out of the packaging and connected it to my Xbox 360.
My 360 was off. I pressed the āhomeā button on the stick and the 360 turned on.
I moved the stick and pressed buttons to see if it was connected, but it didnāt sync up with my 360 for some reason.
The āhomeā button on the arcade stick keeps flashing, without registering a player position (1, 2, 3, or 4).
Is there something I need to do on the 360 to configure the stick, or is the stick possibly deffective?"
Thanks to a fellow srker these will be available for purchase by the weekend.
The page has a couple more pictures, they will come in both slim(1/32") and regular(1/16") thickness and these plexis will not have any mount holes. The slim as always is almost perfectly flush, more so than the V3 SA which is pretty flush. http://www.thegamesurgeons.com/Fighting%20Stick%20V3%20VX%20Covers.html
Final video in my v3/vx series tutorial series finally uploaded. I voiceover and edit the final one like I did the other 3 due to time. Heres the entire playlist for the modding series: http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL6B52419698910D90
