I don’t have access to anything to “grind” with sadly… If I were to sand it down using something like Sandpaper instead, would that work as a good alternative?
I didn’t have this grinding issue that people seem to be having with their JLFs. I installed my JLF with a mounting plate with no issues. Well, the shalf length is a tad bit shorter but I personally don’t notice it (or actually even prefer it) and anyone I’ve lent the stick to hasn’t either.
How easy is it to duo mod HORI VX with a Toodles ChimpSMD??? If so any links or instructions doing so??? I want a good traveling stick. xD
I didn’t either so I just grabbed a drill and applied a slight pressure on the area right beneath the stick, on the bottom plate, in a circular motion repetitively. Like I said, I only removed like 2 millimeters and that was enough. I tried sandpaper at first but that took far too much time.
Hello guys ,
I trying to start the art for my VX and i need the template , but the template link is not working.
can someone up again pls?
Thanks
Here ya go:
Hey Folks,
This is my first mod and I’ve found the buttons to be pretty straight forward, because they are labelled on the PCB; but I’m wondering how do wire the joystick?
I have a jlf-tm-8ty-sk with the harness and I figure it’s as easy as butting that harness with the HORI one; but how do you know which wire is the “up” input or the ground wire, ect?
Thanks!
everybody’s who’s used a harness had this same issue, i think that somebody might have listed it in one of these posts if you go back and read the first few pages (there’s a LOT of useful info in this thread…just scattered unfortunately). i believe on page 2 or 3 there is a link for some japanese blogger who actually listed the harness wiring scheme, i mean unless u can speak the language u’ll have to translate the page with google and try to decipher what he was trying to say…the guy actually did a pretty decent job of explaining it despite the language barrier though
sorry i can’t be of more help, i bought the non-harness version of the stick for this very reason, but trust me it’s been done many times
Thanks for the info!
Once you open up the stick it’s not that hard to figure out. For anyone else having trouble with the joystick harness; here’s my pointers:
and I’m sorry if this is all pretty basic stuff for some of you, but I personally had a hard time coming up with this info as a first timer. The first thing you got to figure out is the standard Sanwa Harness pin wiring scheme. It should be as follows:
Black = Ground
Green = Right
Yellow = Left
Orange = Up
Red = Down
This should be the wiring, but as someone posted in this thread he had an orange ground wire; so I guess accidents can happen.
The next thing to do is look at the wiring on the Hori joystick micro switches and map it out from there, my stick was wired differently than the Japanese blog stick, but its the same basic principal. So I suggest personally checking the stick yourself and not just following what I have here.
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http://blog-imgs-47-origin.fc2.com/k/a/z/kazyangs/20100723220609d4e.jpg
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So keeping in mind that joystick is actually a mirror of your inputs (i.e. if you push the stick up to jump, the stick is actually hitting the bottom switch), this Hori stick maps out as such:
Blue = Down
White = Left
Red = Up
Yellow = Right
After that it’s just the matter of splicing the corresponding colors together, the Hori Harness has 4 ground wires (black wires) the first 3 you can cut or ignore the last wire will connect to the ground on the Sanwa harness.
Hope that helps someone!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v105/syn13/10132011313.jpg
Needs final coats of paint, LS-56-01 converted to a LS-56 and now I need to dremel the bottom plate to have the 56 move freely. Quick question, I’m concerned about drilling a hole through the bottom plate, anyone who has a Seimitsu give me a rough idea of how much I need to dremel off?
I’m glad to see so much progress in this thread since I completed my VX(360). Definitely subscribed as I’ll be implementing these extra fixes to pretty up my mod.
For whomever is having any difficulty with their JLF and the corresponding harness layout; my wiring harness had the wires incorrectly colored for their default paths which made figuring it out require beer. After the beer I realized if you remove the PCB from the JLF and just look carefully you can “trace” the path from each pin to their corresponding “direction”. The path that travels along all the “directions” is the ground. Remember that the “directions” are based on the orientation of the PCB when you reattach it. Also take note that up = down, down = up, left = right, right = left. When you move the shaft “upwards”, you are actually hitting the “lowermost” micro-switch.
If you need further help understanding this method; I’m happy to explain it further if it can save anyone time, needless crimping, or extra wire.
You just repeated what I had already said. I DID ignore the colors of the wiring harness and followed the pins’ path on the PCB based on orientation. And what I did is SPECIFIC to using a JLF and NOT having to solder anything. I don’t think you read my post comprehensively enough or just misinterpreted my words.
I get what you’re saying but that diagram does not clearly show which pin corresponds to which micro-switch. It only shows the micro-switch’s intended direction based on the orientation. That still leaves someone in the dark regarding the pins and the harness colors if they are mixed up. In that case you most likely will need to remove the TP-MA PCB to take a look-see. The image below can be used as a reference in correspondence with yours for whomever really doesn’t get it or is out of options.
http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab36/superarankstrider/sanwa_replacement_pcb_tpma_39721_12158.jpg
with all these threads about modding sticks I guess I’m the only one here that has no problems with the soldering part but the art itself. Where you go exactly to get the image printed and laminated, a photoshop guide would be helpful too since I haven’t used PS in ages.
edit: never mind I found it,(tutorials sticky,lol)
I just bought this stick on ebay 60 shipped. Between all these stick options( man, tek talk has grown!!) I went with hori for the size and price. I just hope a LS-32 will feet in there
Hmm… I really got no idea on how to connect the joystick pins from my Sanwa JLF to the wires. I’m guessing that the default Hori connector won’t fit onto the JLF. Is it a bad idea to just remove the harness and solder each wire to the right pin, or will that work? I don’t have the JLF harness, should I order one or is it not needed? I’ve watched some videos on how to install the JLFs, but they’ve all been on SEs where the connector fits, or they have had the other model with micro switches instead of a PCB on the joystick. Can someone help me out a bit?
Edit: Sorry for being slow, but if I use this image for reference: http://akihabarashop.jp/misc/sanwakopplingen.JPG, should the A (right) pin be connected to the wire that I desoldered from the left side of the original Hori joystick? (the cable actually used for the “move right” command in game.)
hi, i got a question about this stick, i got the SF4 TE for the x360 and thats my only reference with aracde stick, and im looking for a cheap and great stick for the PS3, and then i found this, the V3, can anyone tell me how different is compared to the TE? in a scale from 0 to 10 i rate the TE as a 10, what about the V3?
thanks 
anybody? : /
Completely different from a TE stick. The stick lever in the FS uses microswitches and all parts are soldered down. If you’re a good electrician, then it’s fine but if you have no experience then don’t bother because at some point you will want to swap out the parts but you can do it unless you convert the connectors to quick disconnects and etc…
I have the PS3 Fighting Stick V3 and I was wondering if anybody knows how to dual mod it with a PS1 padhacked controller?
I was just wondering how to ground the PCBs and if a DPDT switch is needed.
Thanks
i think you will have to connect vcc and ground of both pcbs, and no dpdt is needed, but you have to keep 2 cables coming from the case.