Looks good. You may want to add the pinout of where the ribbon connects to the main board to the pcb diagram for that revision
I updated the site again. Main update is a new controller build. I should have another build up within less than a week (it is partially up already). I also messed around with tools, materials, and finishes some more; these seem to be limitless areas of information. I discussed precision in building more as I think it is very important. Plus I recently discovered the cheap source of tools that is Harbor Freight; wish I would have heard of them earlier.
Wait. Your (very nice) site states the Sanwa sticks have “far engage distance”. My Sanwa JLF barely needs to be moved to emit the clicking sound. o.o It doesn’t get much more sensitive than that…
The horrid american-style stick in an older Arcade controller I have is light years less sensitive…
I seem to have gotten different results maybe. I dunno if you have ever used some short Seimitsu joysticks or other really short engage joysticks, but relative to those, the JLF is far, and the American ones I have, which can be pretty sketchy in this assessment, have relatively short engages too. I’ll maybe look at this again; I may have to examine some more Competitions and separate Happ from IL.
On another note, I got my site updated again. The update mainly consists of adding a new controller build.
Harbor Freight is the primo source for cheap (and made) tools. While they may not last as long, it will do the job. They have tons of stuff you can use for a joystick project.
I was looking over the diagram for the sizaxis controller (http://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagrams/ps3_diagram2.jpg) You have a yellow circle for 3v around one of the pins from the USB connector; that’s not a power source, that’s where the data is transmistted. If you pull power from there, it could drop the voltage and make it unable to communicate with the PS3.
Thanks for that, I’ll fix it when I update the site again.
On the note of updating, I decided to a few weeks ago to get serious on some subjects and read some books regarding things like wood, woodworking, tools, boxes, and finishing. I have a heck of a lot of notes that will help in refining the site quite a bit. It’ll probably be a couple weeks, but the next update to the site will be pretty big.
Holy shit amazing site. Big ups, even though it’s a bit late.
yeah im late too, but damn have many of my questions been answered by that site.
I’m sorry for being away so long and not getting an update done. I got burned out and kinda went on a vacation. It’s not good to get burnt out.
Wow, just tons of questions about the damn triggers on Xbox 360 Madcatz PCBs. Stupid things work differently from PCB to PCB. I may have to figure what to explain on those.
I’m back to work on the site. I mainly have updates for a controller build (one shaped like a table I finished almost a month ago), wood, and finishing. It’s funny, I’ve become a big fan of finishing. Doesn’t really affect the performance of a controller, but it’s a complex subject. I find myself sometimes tuning into just the end of the Yankee Workshop. Due to what will probably be a disproportioned amount of info in the decoration section, I may have to reorganize some of the site soon.
Anyways, the update should be up within a few weeks.
wow… nice site
Just wanted to make sure you saw the thread on the newer madcatz triggers with the resistor & transistor inverter fix, and also the post in padhacking on how to do the same resistor & transistor inverter plus a diode to trigger both the analog and digital parts of the wii classic controller triggers.
damn thats a long sentence. Welcome back, site’s as well loved as always.
Thanks Toodles. I’ll take a look again at those posts soon. I guess I also need to go get and diagram a Wii Classic controller; thought about getting one many times, so it’s probably a good idea now.
Awesome sight slagcoin. been using it for my sixaxis hack but…you need to update your ps3 controller pcb pics. The sixaxis is the early pcb, it has been updated and is a lot different.
give me a min and i’ll post the updates for ya here to make it easier to update.
PS3 Pcb update
I can’t take credit for this i just dug it up during my quest for more info about the sixaxis mod.
The old style sixaxis. with the tilt sensor plugging into the main board.
MSU PP4.0 5
Bottom
http://img93.imageshack.us/img93/1449/msupp405cq4.th.jpg
Top
http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/3121/msupp4011topfy4.th.jpg
MSU PP4.0 11
Bottom
http://img378.imageshack.us/img378/4763/msupp4011bottompu5.th.jpg
Top
http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/3121/msupp4011topfy4.th.jpg
Next are the newer sixaxis with the tilt sensor built onto the main board.
MSU V2 2.14
Bottom
http://img158.imageshack.us/img158/609/msuv2214yq7.th.jpg
Top
http://img413.imageshack.us/img413/3628/msuv2214bottomgj3.th.jpg
MSU V2.5 1.05
Bottom
http://img502.imageshack.us/img502/6959/msuv25105fy8.th.jpg
Top
http://img93.imageshack.us/img93/3940/msuv25105frontey4.th.jpg
These are the DualShock3 boards.
MSU VX1.03
Bottom
http://img58.imageshack.us/img58/3073/msuvx103bottomrk2.th.jpg
Top
http://img378.imageshack.us/img378/7739/msuvx103topyc9.th.jpg
MSU V3.5X 1.12
This is a different DS3. The Pin connector is gone, and a different daughter board connector (pressure based) is used.
Bottom
http://img65.imageshack.us/img65/1853/msuv35x112bottomzw0.th.jpg
Top
http://img73.imageshack.us/img73/992/msuv35x112toptg2.th.jpg
I’ll post the pinouts in a sec.
Any of the MSUPP 4.0 versions that have the 3 legged POTs. The TP spots may or may not be covered with solder also.
http://img529.imageshack.us/img529/6513/oldsixaxisqv0.th.jpg
TP10 - PS (Common Line for Home button)
TP17 - COM 1 (Common Line for D-pad and L1/2)
TP18 - COM 2 (Common Line for X, /, [ ], O and R1/2)
TP26 - PS (Home Button)
TP27 - Start
TP28 - R3 (Stick button)
TP29 - L3 (Stick button)
TP30 - Select
TP31 - X
TP32 - R1
TP33 - R2
TP34 - L1
TP35 - DL (D-pad Left)
TP37 - [ ]
TP38 - O
TP39 - /\
TP41 - L2
TP42 - DD (D-pad Down)
TP43 - DR (D-pad Right)
TP44 - DU (D-pad Up)
TP60 - COM 3 (Common Line for Select, Start, L3 and R3)
This is for the newer Six-Axis, with the 4 legged POTs, as well as the older version of DualShock 3.
MSU_V2, MSU_V2.5 (Six-Axis) MSU_VX (DS3)
http://img516.imageshack.us/img516/3096/newsixaxisandds3pi9.th.jpg
TP25 - COM 1
TP26 - COM 2
TP32 - PS
TP33 - Start
TP34 - R3
TP35 - L3
TP36 - Select
TP38 - [ ]
TP39 - X
TP40 - O
TP41 - /
TP42 - R1
TP43 - R2
TP45 - L1
TP46 - L2
TP47 - DL
TP48 - DD
TP49 - DR
TP50 - DU
TP62 - PS (Common Line for Home Button)
There is no TP spot for the COM 3 line on this version of board, best place to use is one of the solder joints of the L3/R3 buttons.
This is for the newer version of DS3 controller.
MSU_V3.5X
http://img165.imageshack.us/img165/9469/newds3ab6.th.jpg
TP17 - COM 1
TP18 - COM 2
TP24 - PS
TP25 - Start
TP26 - R3
TP27 - L3
TP28 - Select
TP30 - [ ]
TP31 - X
TP32 - O
TP33 - /
TP34 - R1
TP35 - R2
TP37 - L1
TP38 - L2
TP39 - DL
TP40 - DD
TP41 - DR
TP42 - DU
TP51 - PS (Common Line for Home Button)
Hmmm, those look like images by RDC.
Well, I don’t take other people’s images without permission (not sure if you’re suggesting that or not); every image currently on my site has been made by me. The only one that looks really different is that what looks like a new version of the DS3 without a connector, like on some of the variations of the DS2, and those thin spots are an enormous pain to solder; the TPs look different is the big thing though. I may have to find that last version, but I dunno if I would go after the others which look not much different; PS3 controllers are still pretty expensive, and Toodles’ Cthulhu is great for PS3 anyways (I need to get my images of it up in the next update).
On a side note, SRK is a lot more crowded than it was a month ago. Really getting beat up during prime hours. That’s a good thing, except for the server problems.
I wasnt sure about the pics I just thought I’d toss them up here. And looking back on it yeah they’re RDC’s. found them on the xboxscene forums. If I can’t get the sixaxis working i may switch to the Cthulhu. I’m really set on wireless though i’m knee deep in cables in my tiny Japanese apartment as it is. 
Again slagcoin your site is amazing 
SRK is really getting packed. It took literally 15mins of server is busy messages to post those posts.
Slagcoin, I wanted to say thanks for having such a great site. I have learned tons from reading through all the info on it. I was amazed at how well you are able to explain, so less experienced people (me) can understand.
Hi Slagcoin,
great site, great work! It’s the bible for joysticks builders. What about to provide a pdf Version? I know youhave many update’s…
Bye
Jochen