And if you can’t find an alternate solder point, as a last resort you can scrape away some of the green coating on the trace to expose the copper underneath, and very carefully solder to the trace itself. Then stick a huge glob of hot glue on it to make sure it doesn’t go anywhere.
How should I scrape it away? I’m trying to trace and solder, but I can’t seem to find the right points, and I can’t solder the wires on, anyway, since they’re so damn small.
Gah… I ca’t get these stupid buttons to work. I scraped some ofthe pcb back to reveal the copper ring and soldered to it, but still nothing. I dunno what to do now… I don’t think I have the skill or steadiness to solder to the trace.
Okay, it looks to me like you first of all have the button labels wrong. The four you did correctly are the R1, R2, L1, and L2. But other than that, nothing appears amiss with those.
Looking at the other buttons, the one at the top looks like you’ve completely lifted most of the trace. In this case it looks like you could save it by soldering to the thick little bulb of solder directly furthest right of the hole. For the two you still have connected, it appears you’ve soldered to the ground instead of the signal, so just solder on the other hole for those two. On the unconnected button, just solder to the right hole.
Edit: No wait, I have my buttons wrong. I changed my button configuration when I modded mine, so disregard what I said.
Square looks shot to fuck. I hope that blob of solder there to the upper right is a legit contact point connected to the trace. Otherwise you will need a multimeter to run a continuity check to find another point that connects the Square signal.
X it looks like the contact to the right is the signal. The left one is ground.
L1 and L2 it looks like you soldered to ground instead of signal.
This is a common ground controller right? Usually if it is not obvious in a common ground controller what side is common, I solder a test wire to a known common ground. With the joystick plugged in, i touch the other end of the wire to the unknown contacts. The one that activates the button push when touched to ground is the signal.
Earlybird I think doesn’t realize the Hori FS3 layout is not like a TE. So keep that in mind when reading his post.
Okay… I did what you guys told me to do and I now have L1, L2, Square, Triangle, X, and R1 working. O and R2 no longer work (which is weird, because they did before.) What’s the damn problem now?
Edit:// Nevermind. Ground wire came loose! It’s all wired up and working, now. Now I’m going to hot glue my contacts, seal it up, and post pics. I’ll be back in a while.
Make sure you have a dremel tool or you’re going to spend a good hour per button when you’re grinding the tabs away. I used a grinding stone and emery boards. It took forever. I’d also reccomend just putting in JLF or Cherry microswitches and changing the stock spring. It’ll save you a heap of trouble, and the stick will feel the same.