Just go slow with it, if something doesn’t come off the first time, never force it.
I managed to desolder the PCB from the buttons completely last night. Am I supposed to just connect the wire strand to the PCB contact, or do I need to add solder to the contact first?
Haha… I suck so hard at this. So far, my greatest achievement with modding this stick is getting ONE button in using just the grinding bit of a dremel (I don’t have a dremel… lol) and that itself took about forty-five minutes to not only grind those two little tabs in the hole down, but to sand the plastic inside the case so that the screw nut would fit.
45 minutes? Get an emery board, you should shred through them pretty quickly, a crescent file would get the job done nicely.
kitsuni get on ps3 and accept my friend request 
my parts shipped yesterday and i’ll be playing w/ my modded stick this week woot
and what do people think of using clip stands attached to plastic inside to keep pcb from moving around after wire + QDs are added
I’ve been looking up some stuff about printing and I was wondering how well gloss varnished card stock would work for the artwork. Has anyone experimented with this over laminated artwork?
Well there should be solder on the contact. Make sure you heat the contact up first before applying the solder on the surface. After that You should tin the wire and once that’s done, you can solder the wire onto the contact. Let me know if you need more help.
Okay… can you tell me what I should do step-by-step (to solder the wires onto the PCB)? Get detailed, if you can. I’m new to this and I can’t afford any mistakes (the mistake I’m trying to avoid being destroying the PCB and having to replace it with a Cthulhu… which, as I said, I can’t afford. Lol.)
I have a 25-watt Soldering Iron, Desoldering Braid, Rosin-Core solder, and 22-gauge AWM wire, in case that’s of any relevance.
I’m also planning to use Quick Disconnects.
There are already really detailed instructions for this sort of thing in the soldering threads located in the stickies.
Like this for example:
These are what Starcade RIP referring to:
http://www.epemag.wimborne.co.uk/solderfaq.htm
http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=118502
All right… where on the PCB do I solder the ground wire after I’ve daisy-chained all the buttons?
Any of the Ground points you desire.
There are like sixteen easy ones to choose from.
Anywhere you see the G.
Diagram by Bomberman for http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=152654 Project.
Sweet. Well… I’ll hopefully get to that tonight. I still have to finish grinding the tabs off the button holes… they’re still taking upwards of 15 (30+ per button hole all together) minutes per tab using grinding bits and emery boards.
Takes you that long?
This is the cool way to do.
But I don’t know you want to spend more money just for modify HORI Fighting Stick 3.
How much did you spend on tools already?
I spent $10 on a soldering iron, $10 on wire, $4 on solder, $4 on desoldering braid, $6 on grinding bits and emery board. I can’t really afford to buy any more tools, as the last $40 I have to my name right now has to go to a Chtuhlu if I fuck up the HORI PCB.
I can deal with using the emery boards. I may have to go buy more, though. It takes 2-3 just to grind down a single tab.
How would I go about bending the tabs on the Seimitsu PS-14-KNs in such a way where the Quick Disconnects will still connect and the tab won’t break off?
why are you wanting to bend them in the 1st place? its really not needed
It is needed. For one, you can’t fit the PCB in there properly if you don’t, and for two, the quick disconnects won’t fit if you don’t.
fit the qd’s then bend it, simple as that
All right…
So far…
-All tabs are ground down and all buttons have been fastened in.
-I’ve soldered new wires onto the old wires for the joystick to extend their length.
-I’ve replaced all of the stock Microswitches with Cherry microswitches.
-I’ve replaced the spring with an LS-32-01 spring.
All connections thus far have been tested and are working wonderfully. I must say, I really love the feel of the Cherry microswitches + LS-32-01 Spring. It’s very responsive and pops back to neutral very quickly. It’s also much quieter than the JLF. All-in-all, I’d say it’s totally on par with the JLF. No question.
I’m going to wire up the buttons later tonight and give the full progress report and hopefully post pictures. I may even get my girlfriend to model with the stick. :T
I’ve encountered a problem…
I’ve wired up all of my buttons… but only three of them work. Can anyone diagnose my problem?