I don’t see an answer to my artwork question really though. I just wanna know if I should cut the artwork out after its been lamilabeled or before. oh and btw I sent a friend invite on the PSN
So I started up SF earlier on PS3 to have my first fight with the new buttons and all and about 2 mins in, before even getting a fight! the machine breaks down, yellow flash, followed by beeps and some red flashes 
60 gig one too. Probs coincidence as from what I’ve read its a soldering issue apparently, but the flatmates PS3 60 gig died a couple minutes after hooking it up to an ipod. Can’t really see how either would kill the machine though, but odd.
As far as the art goes, first of all its always best to print it without the cut areas on. If you’ve done that, you’ll need the plate as a guide for cutting the art. I would probably lay the plate over it and cut the bottom even, then use that to line up the art when I stick it on. Then cut around the edges with it stuck on.
so you’re saying that I should go ahead and print the artwork and get it lamilabeled, cut around main outer edge stick on and then cut the holes from beneath metal plate?
I’d suggest starting the holes form beneat, but finishing them from above. when you cut form beneath you risk separating the lamination from the image.
is the wiring thats already in the stick going to be enough to re-use for my QDs or will I need more and if so where should I get it?
How difficult is it to get an LS-32-01 into this thing? What all do you have to do?
That really depends on how much of the LS-32-01 parts you want in there. You can try to fit the whole thing in there, or you can pick and choose individual parts, re-using Hori parts when necessary. Both the Hori joystick and case are considerably shorter than most, so fitting the entire Seimitsu joystick requires a lot of cutting and drilling on the plastic mounting area. In addition, the joystick height might be a bit higher than normal due to the fact that the case wasn’t designed for it, and if you try to adjust it back down too far, then the joystick shaft will end up scraping the bottom of the case. Some people just cut a hole in the bottom of the case for the shaft to fit through, while others just deal with having a higher joystick. Whichever you choose, you’re looking at a considerable amount of work, especially if you have little experience. The one redeeming benefit, however, is that this option allows you to use your own preferred Seimitsu gate, which can be a deal-breaker for people that prefer anything other than a square gate.
If you don’t want to deal with any drilling, then you can re-use the Hori spring, stick, and mounting assembly, and then just swap the micro switches. This option of course requires you to use the square gate that comes with the Hori stick, because the LS-32-01’s gate doesn’t have an easy way to attach to just the bare micro switches. If you don’t see that as a problem, then the LS-32-01 should use standard sized micro switches, so all you need to do is desolder them from the board they’re attached to, trim off any excess metal, and drop them in. Then just attach some wires to the pins you clipped, and you’re ready to connect the switches onto the board.
I performed the second option myself on a JLF, and I can’t say that I really notice a difference between a full JLF and a Hori with JLF microswitches. The Hori spring was a little more stiff at first because it was brand new, but now that I’ve broken it in a bit at some LAN parties, it feels pretty much identical.
Damn. That sounds like quite the bitchy bitch. Hmmm…
How does the stock stick feel in comparison to, say… the stock Madcatz SE stick? I thought the stock joystick wasn’t too horrible. I was able to live with and play with it for a good couple of months. Also… do Seimitsu PS-14-Gs fit without a problem? Would I be able to simply drop in a JLF PCB into the Hori stick, or would I have to desolder all the switches and put them into the Hori stick? I have a spare JLF PCB.
Yeah, I would say that the SE joystick felt slightly better, but it still doesn’t really compare to a JLF. I think it’s definitely worth it to consider using that spare JLF PCB. And yeah, like the LS-32-01, you’re going to need to desolder the switches from the PCB. I tried fitting the whole PCB in at first, but the pointy tips on the solder points cause some clearance issues, and the added height pushes the gate a bit too far down from the shaft. Desoldering the PCB really isn’t that difficult as long as you can get your hands on a decent desoldering bulb or braid.
The PS-14-G’s should fit just fine in the stick. There are some small tabs in the faceplate that are used to hold the original Hori buttons in, so all you need to do is get your hands on a Dremel or other grinding tool and carefully grind them down until the new buttons fit.
How big of a difference will just the JLF microswitches make? Are there any other parts I should make it a point to put in? Is it possible to fit a JLF-CD on or will I have to cut it down?
The Hori switches are noticeably less responsive, and require more effort to activate. It’s like someone stuffed old chewing gum in between the shaft and the switches of a good JLF. In terms of the build quality on everything else, I can’t really tell much of a difference, and that’s why I swapped only the micro switches.
With the shaft being considerably shorter than on a JLF, you’d probably need to cut your JLF-CD down to size. Though honestly I’m not sure why you would want to install a JLF-CD when the Hori one is nearly identical and already the right size.
HORI Fighting Stick 3 does not have Shaft Cover.
The only HORI I know that comes with Shaft Cover now is the Wireless Tekken 6.
Not include HORI Real Arcade Pro. since they have Sanwa JLF.
And all the Sanwa JLF in HRAP have Shaft Cover.
HRAP of the SE variant does not have Shaft Cover.
That is because there is no Shaft Cover available for Seimitsu LS-32(-01).
Whoops, I read the description wrong on the JLF-CD. Never personally used a shaft cover myself, so at first glance I thought it was the sleeve that went over the bottom of the shaft on the inside of the stick.
So to correct my previous statements, I don’t actually know if there would be trimming needed.
Okay. How difficult would it be for a novice to solder the JLF switches on? How would I go about cutting the JLF-CD down? I would like to have a shaft cover.
I’m not getting the stick until Wednesday ($34 on Amazon - free two day shipping. Great deal, if you want to look into it.) And I won’t have the money to buy my mod parts (Hopefully Seimitsu PS-14-KN 6x Blue 2x White) for a while, so I figure I have enough time to learn how to do everything right before I get into it.
The only onther stick I’ve modded before is the SE stick with full Sanwa, so, soldering is brand new to me. Praying I don’t get burned…
anyone know if there is any place that provides plexi glass cover for the hfs3
For a novice in soldering, I would say this is still fairly easy. All that needs to be done is that you heat up the solder points where the switches attach to the board, and use a desoldering bulb or braid to suck up all the solder until the switches come free of the board. The same thing will need to be done with the buttons, since they’re soldered directly to the Hori PCB.
If you are planning on still using the Hori PCB, then you can re-use the wires that are attached to the Hori micro switches for attaching the new JLF micro switches. The new buttons will need to be soldered back to the board by either soldering on wires and attaching the wires to the buttons, or you can clip the pins on the buttons and squeeze them back through the holes on the solder points, and just apply some solder to keep them in place. The solder points are pretty big, so you should be okay as long as you’re careful. Mainly just remember to keep appendages away from the hot parts of the iron, and give freshly-soldered and heated surfaces at least a good 30 seconds to cool down before you touch them.
Thanks for the soldering advice. Couple more questions…
What do most do with the PCB after the new buttons are soldered to it? Tape it down, let it dangle freely, or what?
Do you know of any good reference videos for soldering/desoldering PCBs/sticks/etc? (I’m mostly a visual learner. ;P)
Oh, and for anyone that has done it:
How do you cut down a JLF-CD shaft cover to fit with the Hori FS3?
How you secure the PCB after completing the mod is really up to you, you just want to make sure that it’s secure enough that it doesn’t bounce around inside the case or come into contact with the metal panel at the bottom. Some people put electrical tape on the metal panel just to make sure that it doesn’t cause a short even if it does come into contact with the board.
If you’re going to use tape to secure the PCB, be sure to use a lot of it. You can also try running zip ties around the board and secure them to the plastic columns. And if you’re really brave, you could try drilling a hole in the unused space on the PCB and run a bolt through it to secure it. The possibilities are limited only by what materials you have on hand.
There’s a guy on Youtube that posted a modding guide for the Wii version of the stick, though he went and replaced the board so it would work on 360, and installed an entire JLF instead of just swapping the micro switches.
Part 1
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Part 2
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Part 3
[media=youtube]wXRghqb4Lms&feature=related[/media]
Part 4
[media=youtube]1oKTz0fjUKA&feature=related[/media]
okay so after looking through pretty much all this whole thread I can’t seem to find a definitive answer to this question.
What/if any stick will fit in the HFS3 w/o resizing anything? If none would it be easy to put in an octagonal gate on the stock happ stick?