The micro switches are the same size and dimensions as in the JLF, but they are not nearly as good in terms of quality. Moreover, the whole JLF assembly is much taller than the Hori, which makes fitting a JLF into the case somewhat of a problem.
In my case, I saved myself the grief of drilling into a perfectly good case, and simply replaced the Hori micro switches with the JLF micro switches, leaving the shaft, spring, and housing assembly alone. All you need to do is disassemble the JLF and desolder the micro switches from the PCB, then clip off the excess metal with some good wire cutters, and drop them into the Hori joystick. The only difference that I can feel is that the Hori spring is just slightly stronger than the JLF spring, but not enough to really impact performance.
As for fitting an octagonal gate onto the joystick, it’s really just a matter of drilling holes in the gate so you can put the mounting screws through it.
Well if you find something that works, go with it. I’m just making the suggestion based on what worked for me, and what I saw on a rather cursory glance.
What top fits to the Hori shaft? Is what I’m assuming. I’ve tried the Sanwa LB-30-N Bat Top(don’t forget adapter) and Sanwa LB-35 Ball Top on the Hori shaft and they both fit. I’ve also tried them on the Seimitsu LS-32-01 Shaft and they fit. So I would think that the Seimitsu Ball Tops would also fit the Hori shaft.
The Sanwa Bat Top is also taller then the Sanwa Ball Top when mounted on the shaft about 10mm. It all comes down to your preference.
Sanwa LB-30-N Bat Top + Adapter and Sanwa LB-35 Ball Top Shown.
This being my first mod I had to mess up somewhere and I did
With the wires and all hooked up, the board extends to far out and thus I’m unable to screw the bottom on. I plan to extend it in some manner, get ahold of some longer screws etc. I’ll work something out then post some pics (along with some sackboy Street Fighters I just ordered - can’t wait!)
For the moment, I’ve simply screwed the screws in a little whilst layering the bottom plate with some electric tape or whatever its called to prevent the lower plate from interfering with the PCB board. It leaves a gap, but works until I figure out something else.
I’ll prbs post pictures in a week or so when the stick bats arrive for the finished look and document the errors I made - stuff like that. Might be useful for someone that’s never done anything like this before (like me!)
Alright gents, I need some help I am not looking to mod my stick but my Triangle button (HP button) is sticking now ever so often I was wonder how you might fix this, it is worn a bit but no worse than my other buttons, I have had this stick for 3 months, is there a way to fix without hackin it apart. Any help would be nice thanks.
My initial suggestion would be to open it up remove the button, disassemble it and clean it, but with the buttons being soldered to the PCB you can’t remove a button without a soldering iron.
I would like to go ahead and ask a question here now. I’m going to order 8 new buttons & a ball top for my stock stick as well as placing new artwork on my HFS3. Will I need to desolder the stick when adding the artwork or just the main 8 buttons?
okay. What size ball top will I need for the hori stick & where can I order more wire/how much do I need? I am putting in 8 OBSN-30 buttons and converting them all to QDs instead of directly soldering. I know I solder the wire to the PCB and then crimp the wire on the QD and connect to button.
now for an artwork question. should I cut the artwork before or after lamilabel?
