I just read through all 55 pages and I can’t believe nobody asked this but here goes:
I don’t have paintshop but I would still like to print out some of the cool templates you guys have made. Is there any reason that a jpg or bmp wouldn’t print out just as nice? Also the few that have been posted as jpgs, whenever I try to pull them up at full size they get huge, but I figure they are set at the wrong res or something.
If paintshop is a must and I am just sol, I might try to do a powdercoating of the metal top instead, that is one I haven’t seen anybody in the thread try yet.
Modded my FS3 with Sanwa buttons and a JLF… Just finished… Mounted the JLF and dremelled out the shaft… EXCEPT my JLF is now very very rough… Almost scraping… I also have a HRAP3 to compare, and the modded FS3 is a lot more grindy and grittier… At first i thought that it was still scraping the base that bad it is…
I’m guessing some metal dust got into the stick mechanism and maybe even the microswitches… . Thing is it’s late, I’ve been working on this thing since 8:00pm… Everything works as it should, all my soldering has been successfully completed, it’s just the stick feels a LOT ROUGHER than my other Sanwa JLF in my HRAP3… and it’s not scraping the bottom of the base…
Just wondering did anyone else have this dilema? Tomorrow, i’ll strip the stick again and clean it down from any metal dust…
Any recommendations on what lube to use? The molycoat 44 grease is $30
So i can’t imagine many people going with that… It is done though and i’m very happy with the wiring, soldering, and button installation… Just a shame metal dust got into the moving parts of the stick… Anyone else had the same?
Kudos to everyone who actually modded a damn Hori FS3. Must have been a quite an ordeal considering the soldering involved. Also good luck with the stick problem TheDoc46.
Took apart this morning and cleaned down all dust… Definately an improvement… However it still didn’t seem as smooth as my HRAP3… So i took apart my HRAP3 and put the spring and moving parts to put an end to my curiousity… Still the slighly grittier / stiffer feel… I’m putting it down to being in a different chasis than my HRAP3… Smaller spacing inside means you feel the movement even more. Even the Sanwa buttons feel completely different and sound different… I guess Chasis does have a lot to do with the feel of buttons and stick also…
I think I prefer the HRAP3 feel over my FS3 modded, (especially weight) BUT i’m not really use to the FS3 yet… Time will tell… What it has been though is a lot of fun getting it all built… That’s for sure… Also i do feel i’m missing the white silicone molycone 44 grease… Still awaiting recommendations on an alternative… Used a little WD40. which probably wasn’t the best thing to go with…
My original intention was only to use this as a 2nd stick anyways, most probably turning it into a 4-way only for some mame original gaming…
Ok so i got to modding my fs3 yesterday and I’m having some problems with the joystick. The stock wires from the pcb to the microswitches were too short so i had to tie new wires to the stripped ends of the old wires and then solder them to the quick disconnects from my sanwa JLF. I used this guide (http://pineconeattack.com/2009/03/07/how-to-mod-the-hori-ex2hori-wii-fighting-stick-with-actual-sanwa-joystick-and-buttons/). I soldered them in the order shown but I didnt pay any attention to which tab the specific colored wires were soldered too (so the grey wire went to any of the two tabs). Problem now is that only one input works on the joystick (bottom right). Do i need to solder the wires in a specific way to the tabs on the microswitches? Also is there a way I can replace the old wires with completely new ones instead of tieing new wires to the old ones to lengthen them?
Make sure that you have the wires soldered to the right place. Recently, I hooked up the JLF to a barrier strip and I put the five wires in the opposite orientation and only the bottom left input worked. Test your inputs by plugging it into a PC and touching any ground wire to the directional signals. As for replacing the old wires, you can do it if you’re confident in your soldering to PCB skills. I usually recommend people to just solder to the old wires like you did because it’s easier not to screw up the PCB like so many other people have before.
Sound like you need to go straight to the pcb and use the JLF harness. It’s the proper way to do it anyways. Just take your time and be careful. Here’s all the wiring diagrams that you’ll need
If the wires are too short as in 2 mm in length or something you absolutely cannot solder a wire to, then you have to desolder the wire and resolder a new one to the connection.
But what? You broke the connections on the PCB with a dremel? I don’t know what that exactly means, but maybe that could be why you can only register one input. (Which in that case probably means that your PCB is fucked.) Try to post a picture so we can see what you’re talking about exactly.
trueultimo saying that he cut the Traces on TP-MA to solder directly to Microswitches.
But then trueultimo mentioned Quick Disconnect, and that confuse me.
Confuse me because the only JLF that uses Quick Disconnect is JLF-TM-8.
Sanwa JLF-TM-8 do not use PCB, so there is no TP-MA (Microswitch PCB Assembly).
So i recently ordered a new Hori pro EX/SE to replace my old Hori ex I’ve had for ever. So since I’m already moding it by moving the two extra buttons to the back of the stick (or the side) I thought I might as well make it multi-system. I’ve read a lot of the threads here and so far I think the best two solutions are either slapping a Mayflash pcb on it or throwing in one of these MC Cthulhu boards in there.
Can anyone maybe give me some advise on which of these would be the simplest an cleanest, or if there are other alternative solutions I might have missed. Also, will the tutorial for the Madcatz SE stick work for a hori EX-SE too if I choose the MC Cthulhu route?
Note: I didn’t see a thread for Hori EX-SE mods so I’m guessing not many people are modding this stick.
HRAP EX, HRAP EX SA, HRAP EX SE are non-Common Ground.
You will not be able to use Cthulhu or Multi-Console Cthulu to do Dual Mod with stock Hori PCB of HRAP EX, HRAP EX SA, HRAP EX SE.
hey, while I’m sure the answer to this is elsewhere on the forum and you can find it by searching, a free tool similar to paintshop/Photoshop is called Gimp. This should let you open most if not all psd files found on this forum.
