pikay- Use snap ins for your application. The plastic shroud will make putting screwins alittle harder. Youll have to shave some of the nuts.
If you use Seimitsu screw ins and put them in in the right order you shouldn’t have to shave anything. At least I didn’t.
Im aware, but he’s using Sanwa
D’oh. Got my posters mixed up.
Yes, it’ll take up another 5mm or so depending on the standoff (though you could feasibly construct or find 2mm standoffs I bet). The advantage is that you don’t accidentally short your board against the bottom panel when one of the electrical leads pokes through the electrical (or duct) tape.
assuming you’ve properly clipped any extra wire off the top of the point of soldering, this really should not be a problem. dont leave that shit danglin!
I have a Hrap3 and I’m trying to add a plexi glass cover on top. This plexiglass cover will only hav 6 button holes and so I will not be able to use L1 and L2 for things such as filtering rankings in SF4, etc. As Hrap3 owners should know there is a button for L3 and R3 next to the HOME button. Is it easy to just switch the wires for the L1 and L2 with the wires for the L3and R3 buttons?
This thread is for the Hori FS3, not the Hori Real Arcade Pro 3. …but I don’t see why it’s not possible.
Meh. Shouldn’t isn’t won’t. It’s not like you’re filing it flush and putting a polymer coating over the pcb – metal tends to be sharp, especially when clipped.
I just think that if you’re going to do something and doing it right isn’t much more difficult or expensive then you should do it right. (I mean, ideally you’d tap the metal bottom plate for the standoffs but JB-weld or epoxy would work fine or you could just drill it and use a bolt and two nuts as a standoff.)
you can also make stand offs out of hotglue or put a spot of hotglue over your “sharp” solder contacts.
Edit- Is there enough room in the ex2 to fit a Cthulhu, 360 pcb and imp? Ive put a ds and 360 pcb in before and that was a pretty tight squeeze. I dont have time to flip through all the previous pages to see if someone has done it.
Thanks in advance
Thanks for the help everyone. I guess I can get standoffs, they’re fairly cheap and all.Seems like a better idea than coating the bottom with electrical tape or a sheet of cut out plastic. I also plan on hot gluing my solderings to enforce them anyway, so don’t think I’ll really have much of a problem. But it never hurts to be safe.
Ok, so I completed my first mod…Ever.
http://i31.tinypic.com/20hnjv8.jpg
The other sanwa felt the wrath of a stray soldering iron, so I put in a Hori for R2, not like I’m ever gonna use it anyway.
Anyway, for my first mod, I’m kind of disappointed, but I guess practice makes perfect. I’m probably gonna make a stick from scratch for my next one, when I get the cash.
Well practice makes perfect. I burned myself the first few time I used a soldering iron. though how exactly did you manage to burn the case and button?
I burned the case because I tried soldering a loose wire and I didn’t want to take the whole panel off just to do so, so the shaft of the soldering iron accidentally touched the case part.
I burned a sanwa by putting it on the table, setting the soldering iron down, and going upstairs to pee. When I came back, the button apparently rolled right into the soldering iron.:wonder:
The above could’ve been avoided if I was more patient >_>
I would like to know my too. were you high as a kite? lol j/k
This is one of the reasons why I separated my Tekken 5 PCB’s from the case.
Much, much easier to peform soldering on a PCB completely separated from the casing and there’s less chance of burning anything.
To remove the cord attached to the PCB from the external casing, I had to cut off the the plastic bar that runs across the hole where the cord passes through. This bar is what holds the much smaller PCB for the full-up HRAP sticks. Remember, the T5 stick uses an HRAP casing but is NOT an HRAP stick because it uses a huge PCB that’s held in place by buttons soldered directly into the PCB. T5’s also lack the turbo buttons that are present in all models of HRAP that I’m aware of.
After removing the plastic bar with a small hacksaw, it’s easy to remove the connector cord from the base by dragging it through the enlarged hole created by the sawed-off plastic bar. I tend to clean up the cuts created by the hacksaw by using a file on the plastic. Metal files work very well on plastic and help smooth out and remove jagged plastic from cut areas. I’ve also used smooth/fine files to remove spraypaint that didn’t adhere so well to exterior casing. Some times it works better for this purpose than sandpaper or sandblocks.
I didn’t remove the plastic bar from my Arcana Heart 2 stick’s casing but was very careful to get as much distance between the PCB and the casing when doing all my soldering work on that stick.
I kind of prefer working on the lower-end T5 sticks since it’s easier to be brutal to them and you know you’re not going to keep the original art on those! 
As for the electrical short possibility on the FS3 mods, has anybody thought about just coating the inner metal bottom surface with plastic spraypaint? That should take care of the conductivity problem. I would still use pegs or scrap PVC to elevate the PCB above the metal bottom a bit but a thin plastic spraypaint coating should take care of the electrical short probably as long as the paint doesn’t scratched off near the solder connections…
Like I said about the electrical tape – my trepidation with just coating the metal with something soft is that electrical leads, even when clipped even, are pointy and it doesn’t take much to pierce electrical tape or a coat of spray paint. If you wanted to lay down a coat of urethane resin or similar – something that’ll get hard – I bet it’d work. But then you might get static buildup – also undesirable. Standoffs are a time-tested way of keeping PCBs off of metal, hence why I would inherently trust them and go to them first unless some thing prohibits it.
can somebody show me a pic of quick disconnects and stand offs?
This:
http://www.modchipman.com/solderless-quick-disconnects-110-p-1642.html
And this:
http://www.modchipman.com/sanwa-ll2-pcb-mounting-feet-p-1738.html
lol.