Modding the Hori Fighting Stick 3

Will fit, yes.

hey guys ive just started to mod my stick. ive done the buttons and they all work however my joystick doesnt. i have a sanwa JFL ive wired it as in the tutorial only right works when i hold it down and left when i press left down… up and down dont work. i tried to solder them again but i saw some of the pcb come up does that mean that the pcb is screwed? ive got a few pics to show you guys. any input will be greatly appreciated :slight_smile:

http://img269.imageshack.us/i/img0361q.jpg/

http://img151.imageshack.us/i/img0363j.jpg/

http://img199.imageshack.us/i/img0364lez.jpg/

thanks!

Today I learned that strictly following a FSWii tutorial when dealing with FS3 PCB, will indeed lead to a large headache.

Finally, my mod is complete. A little rough around the edges, but still, complete.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v420/Luigi87/L87NoelFS3.jpg

http://img140.imageshack.us/i/img0365rkx.jpg/

didnt want to post a big picture in here so theres the link…

hey guys updated… after messing around with the soldering point i made it work by putting more solder on it. it was working all good except everything was opposite so i switched them all around. now only up down right work and NOT left which worked before…

from top to bottom wiring is black/ground, green (took it out atm), ground red grouind yellow ground orange.

only problem is green anyone got any ideas?

Does orginal Hori joystick require separate grounds ?
Or can they be joined into single common ground together with buttons ?

For Hori Fighting Stick 3, can be single; it is Common Ground.

So I accidentally ordered a JLF-TP-8YT-SK instead of a JLF-TP-8T to mod my 2nd Hori Stick. I don’t think that LL will accept exchanges so what are my options? The SK does not come with a wiring harness, so do I just need to go to Radio Shack and pick one up? Are there any other differences between a SK and the regular JLF?

Thanks jdm714.

Since i think I’ll end with ordering Cthulu PCB after all i can buy some buttons too.

Will Happ competition button be ok for FS3 as they are slihtly bigger than 28 mm ? Or Sanwas are my only choice ? I think i’d rather like something less sensitive than sanwas.

Being a JLF-TP-8T does not mean it comes with Wire Harness exclusively.

All Sanwa JLF are the same; some just have different prefixes to show what is added on.

Here the six variations listed in Sanwa Catalog:
JLF-TP-8 is Base JLF.
JLF-TP-8Y is Base JLF with the TP-MA (PCB) rotated 90.
JLF-TP-8T is Base JLF with JLF-P-1 (Flat Mounting Plate).
JLF-TP-8YT is Base JLF with the TP-MA (PCB) rotated 90 with JLF-P-1 (Flat Mounting Plate).
JLF-TP-8S is Base JLF with the TP-MA (PCB) rotated 90 with JLF-P-1S (S Mounting Plate).
JLF-TP-8Y-SK is Base JLF with the TP-MA (PCB) rotated 90 with JLF-CD (Shaft Cover).

Of course other variations can be done too:
JLF-TP-8-SK, JLF-TP-8T-SK, JLF-TP-8S-SK, JLF-TP-8YT-SK.

I’ll just add this for completeness, since it is JLF:
JLF-TM-8 can do; JLF-TM-8T, JLF-TM-8T-SK, JLF-TM-8S, JLF-TM-8S-SK.

Thanks for the additional info. So it should work fine as long as I find a 5-pin harness to install it?

Yes, will work.
And you don’t really need a Sanwa JLF-H (Wire Harness).

You can solder the wires directly to Microswitch or pins of TP-MA (Microswitch PCB Assembly) if you want.
But Wire Harness would make things cleaner.

How will you be modding your Hori Fighting Stick 3 anyways?

I fit a 360 madcatz pcb in mine. Although the only way i could do it is trim the 2 holes that are in there to fit the pcb. I also fit a jlf, screwed in from the top into the microswitches to hold it. Works great.

People seriously need to stop desoldering the wires that are attached to the stock stick. It’s a much smarter idea to just cut the wires and solder the stick to those wires instead. It’s a lot easier to just solder wire-to-wire than wire-to-PCB and risk burning out/lifting the pads on the PCB, especially when they’re so close together. There are sooo many people in this thread who did this and made common soldering mistakes which could’ve been avoided if they took the easy way out. I make those same mistakes when hacking PCBs, but I had the insight to cut the wires instead of desolder them when I modded my FS3.

By the way, Luigi87, I LOVE your stick. <3 Noel.

Hey im thinking of replacing the stock PCB in the fs3 with a pcb from an offical 360 wired controller.

Is this very hard for a first time modder and can anyone point me to a tutorial of some sort? I was planning on picking up an ex2 but couldnt find one at the price I wanted so im thinking of just modding the PCB on the fs3.

Thanks

Wouldn’t it be cheaper and easier to get Madcatz SE for x360 instead of X360 pad + hori fs3 ?

I tried modding my Hori FS3 with ps1 pad pcb and now i’m waiting for cthulu PCB as replacement so no it’s not that easy for first time modder like me :slight_smile:

I already have the pad and fs3

Here’s my FS3 with buttons from my HRAP 3. I was going to put the seimitsus I received on this, but decided to put it in my HRAP instead. Also, I wanted to see if the wires I bought would work for when I do receive my new set of buttons and sure enough, it did! Enjoy!

http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k90/ed-lsvtec/IMG_2421.jpg

http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k90/ed-lsvtec/IMG_2424.jpg

http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k90/ed-lsvtec/IMG_2426.jpg

http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k90/ed-lsvtec/IMG_2427.jpg

Sorry about the flash. The photos I took without the flash looked really muddy.

Looks good sachmo-one.

nice looking stick there sachmo-one could you take a pic of the inside of your stick

It’s pretty crappy, but here’s the guts. The joystick is stock and the pcb is stock. I’m thinking about ordering a new joystick for it later, but gotta do my research on it still on what will work best.

Here’s the pcb. I just stuck the copper wires through the holes and soldered them.

http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k90/ed-lsvtec/100_0135.jpg

Here’s a side view…sorry kinda blurry.

http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k90/ed-lsvtec/100_0131.jpg

Here’s a better view. I had to bend the connectors so that the pcb would have enough room as to not touch the steel plate.

http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k90/ed-lsvtec/100_0128.jpg

This was all for practice pretty much. Now I’m ready for when I get my new buttons!