can anyone tell me whats the height from top metal to metal base?
Does the information in this thread also pertain to the PS3 Soul Calibur version of this stick? Thanks.
Would it be possible to reuse few of the Hori buttons that came with it?
If so do you have to re-solder it back onto the PCB or you can use quick connects and wire like the sanwa buttons?
yes, it’s the same stick. the soulcalibur iv version just has different artwork on the top.
from what i understand, you can reuse the hori buttons, but you would have to either re-solder it back to the pcb or you can just solder a wire onto the prongs of the button. i don’t think you can use quick disconnects on the hori buttons, but i’m not 100% sure. hope that helps.
I have a question. I’ve been looking at tutorials and pics on how to open up sticks (unfortuanately none for this model), and it seems like with all of them you have to unscrew the bottom then take out a lot of stuff (wires, buttons, etc) just to get the faceplate off. I want to put my own template that I made onto the faceplate, but I don’t want to mess up the stick (especially since it took me forever to find a stick in the first place). So basically I want to know if I would have to unsolder or take apart anything that would be difficult for someone with no experience to put back into place. I read earlier in this thread that this is a harder stick to mod, but being that I’m not actually trying to deal with replacing buttons I’m hoping the difficulty to mod (put on a template) will not be as high…
Hi everyone,
Looking at this, http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h201/eastx/PS3/horifightingstick3pcb.jpg, everything seems pretty straightforward except the “ground” above the “right” R30. Where am I supposed to connect that ground wire to? Am I supposed to connect that to the black wire on the JLF harness? Or am I supposed to just leave it exposed?
The jlf just needs to be connected to any of the grounds.
It goes to the Daisy-chained Buttons too.
If doing like the picture.
You can go either way. The contacts on the hori buttons are like thick needles, so it’s not as easy to solder a wire to as a flat surface, but still do-able. Tin the leads and your wire, apply heat, and you should be OK.
Connect it to the black wire on the JLF harness.
Hey guys, there is lots of good stuff here for modding the fs3. I’m currently working on my first arcade stick mod. I’m flush mounting a jlf to the bottom of the metal panel of the fs3 and of course changing out the buttons.
Here’s what I have done so far.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v229/sephiroti1101/DSC00321.jpg
drilled holes for jlf (for mounting without original mounting plate)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v229/sephiroti1101/DSC00322.jpg
Tapped in slight indentations in an attempt to recess the screws which have beveled heads. This is a bit scary to undergo as it could warp the surface.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v229/sephiroti1101/DSC00330.jpg
Once i could confirm that the holes fit the jlf. I dremeled away the un-needed plastic.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v229/sephiroti1101/DSC00342.jpg
Also dremeled away the metal button tabs earlier
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v229/sephiroti1101/DSC00336.jpg
The screws are hardly visible once the dust cover is on. They sit at nearly the same height as the surface thanks to the small indentations.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v229/sephiroti1101/DSC00338.jpg
Stands a bit tall but I was expecting it to. Doesn’t come anywhere close to nicking the bottom of the casing though. Could probably squeeze in some thin foam tape and a washer and still have room to spare while getting the stick about 4 millimeters lower. Not sure though. Might need longer screws for that too.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v229/sephiroti1101/DSC00335.jpg
Thought this image might help for those trying to guesstimate just how high a ball top would stand.
Thanks to everyone for all the tips and diagrams I’ve found throughout these forums.
I’ll post some more when it’s finished or closer at least. Any suggestions are welcome.
you dont need to drill the metal plate to fit jlf in. All I did was cut the 2 protruded jlf base and fit straight away on the plastic base holder.No need to cut short screws or dremel.Piece of cake
omegaweapon wanted to mod it like how TheRealNeoGeo did to his Namco:
http://arkadesticks.com/namcomoden.htm
Exactly.
I definitely did a lot of research before I started hacking away at it. That’s a good link, I actually hadn’t seen that particular mod as I’ve only been searching under hfs3 mods and couldn’t seem to find one that was detailing exactly what it was I wanted to do.
I mostly used Twinniss’s walkthrough to get a general idea. Of course that was a Sieimitsu. I just liked the idea of mounting flush on the metal. If that didnt work out I would have mounted to the plastic and covered up the evidence.
Here’s a link to the mod I’m referring to. http://forums.shoryuken.com/showpost.php?p=6299939&postcount=890
I knew I have seen that before; I was trying to find it.
Since it is closer related to your Hori Fighting Stick 3.
Though the mounting method can be done same for Wii/FS3/EX2 and Namco.
Thank you for hooking it up.
What I don’t remember is if I saw someone other than you do on Hori Fighting Stick 3.
Has anybody tried using a custom plate from: http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=187562
I’m interested in it because they will weld a universal stick mount and I hate how wonky the modded HFS3 is. I have my HFS3 shell just laying around though so I feel I need to do something with it.
Hi all, first time shoryukener here. After stumbling upon this thread and being curios to see how seimitsu parts felt, i was inspired to mod my FS3. I ordered an LS32-01 and PS-14-KN buttons from lizardlick. Since i didn’t know how to print art work i kept the original hori art intact. I glued metal washers together and made 4 stacks to extend the base to make the clearing for the long ls32 shaft and to add weight. Thanks to all for posting useful info on modding this.
I want to try Seimitsu buttons out, how did you mod them onto the hori? Same way as Sanwa’s?
Yea same way as the sanwas, just sand/dremel out the little tabs on the metal plate to allow them to slide in the holes. Since i used screw in buttons i sanded out some of the area on the plastic where L2 button is to widen it for the screw to fit nice. The screws fit fine for the other buttons
Not sure if this’s news to you guys. But I just noticed that Amazon started carrying Hori FS3 at $50 again!