hi guys im selling my modded fs3 on Ebay.Thanks for everyone who helped me to mod my fs3 so far.
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&item=220411375917
here are the pics:
http://i40.tinypic.com/2nsnu49.jpg
http://i43.tinypic.com/2ahw6f7.jpg
hey, guys,
i just modded my hfs3 with sanwa buttons. for some reason the two buttons which are at the X and O position are registering as the SAME action. I tested it on ePSXe and snes, both say those two buttons are the same thing. Later today I might desolder and resolder the two buttons (I’ll use a little less than what I normally used, and then i’ll clean the pcb to be sure.)
Any advice or reason for my situation?
thanks in advance.
EDIT: the stick is actually the hori soul calibur IV stick, but same thing I think.
One of the guys on this thread i believe top mounted it but also kind of counter sunk the plastic so the mount was flush with the plastic. They claim this made for a non abstructed bottom shaft.
Ill find the post.
Grinding the joystick and the bottom panel is a PITA!
I think I screw up my PCB when trying to solder it… can I replace the PCB with Fully assembled Sixaxis PCB + Axisdapter, or assembled PS3 Cthulhu PCB?.
LS-33, not LS-32.
I think he was talking about this post on page 14. I believe that he used an LS-32 for this, however this was done for an Agetec. Rugedman on the next page does the same mod for an LS-33 on an FS3, but I’ve shown that you could just plastic mount it in that case though.
Sorry my bad, i was referring to this post:
http://forums.shoryuken.com/showpost.php?p=5178729&postcount=247
this is for a JLF, so forget anything i said regarding a LS-X being flush mount 
I haven’t seen it directly answered yet…does this stick have enough clearance for a Happ competition? I’ve gone one laying around and have the option to get this stick cheap.
people are either grinding down the bottom metal plate or drilling a hole, so i don’t think there’s enough room for a happ stick
For those whose JLF is pretty much flush to the plastic case. Does the stick seem to sit too high?
On a scale of 1 to 10 , how hard is it to mod the stick? I have no experience at all with soldering or modding.
The MAdcatz SE stick would be closer to a 1. This requires you to solder, grind metal with a dremel, modify the mounting design somehow, and usually cut a hole in the bottom. It’s no 1.
That said I haven’t modded enough sticks to know what a 10 would be like, so I can’t give an accurate rating. It is a fair bit more challenging than a stick you could just drop in replacements with like the MAdcatz ones.
True, this mod would be closer to the 10 side of the scale. Ragnorok captured all the things that need to be done. Where as the madcatz, hraps, vhsg you just swap out the buttons and the joystick are already have correct mounts; so no mess no fuss.
Having done a FS3 and FS2, like nin-jay said just take your time. Desoldering the buttons from the PCB is the most dangerous (maybe the wrong word) as you may 1. fry the pcb or rip the copper that you are supposed to solder to. If you look though the last few pages there is an example of it.
the fs3 was my first mod. i switched the hori pcb with a cthulu and swapped the buttons with sanwas. i had to use a dremel to grind the tabs off. it only took me 2 hours. i think it was easy.
im building a carbon fiber case now and dual pcb. this is a little tougher, just because i have to form the case instead of making it out of wood.
Same here. My first mod was the FS3 but I chose to keep the pcb. But switched out everything else out with sanwa parts.
And yes building as stick is >>>> modding a FS3. Looking forward to seeing your carbon fiber stick.
This is a great thread. I finally started mine. I just sanded off the four bumps around the Sanwa snap-in buttons rather than sanded the metal holes on the stick further. This way I had only to sand off the tabs to get the buttons to fit.
http://img196.imageshack.us/img196/3071/stickphoto01.jpg
Question:
Would de-soldering the existing wires from the hori stick, and re-soldering them the corresponding the tabs on the switches of the JLF (or your stick of choice) work?
After reading through this thread, I totally want to mod one of these now. A nice, not too steep, challenge.
I finally finished mine (never modded a stick before, but I’m no stranger to soldering and small scale electrical work), I ended up doing do a couple of things different from lithy’s mod posted on NG.
I’m using a Sanwa JLF, I used the screws at original length, I did not cut them. My gate already had appropriate holes drilled where the mounting screws go (I was using it with the standard Hori stick), so I just ran them through there. You still have to open up the hex-shaped holes on the top side of the base with a drill bit (turn that drill bit manually, BTW), but this way you don’t have to worry about flattening out the underside “rim” so you have clearance for the screw head under the gate.
For fitting the buttons, I drilled out the tabs in the holes only. I didn’t not widen the holes further. Then, as I said in my previous post, I shaved off the nubs around the OBSFs.
I didn’t want to deal with securing the loose PCB inside of the case, so instead of jumper wires for the buttons, I soldered lengths of solid core wire to the contacts on the buttons and bent them appropriately to fit into the holes on the Hori PCB. I’m not completely satisfied with this because when soldering the leads to the PCB on the topside it is possible to heat the wire enough to also heat the connection to the button tabs underneath, and risk getting a cold joint there. If I had it to do again, I might try starting with a longer length of solid core wire to dissipate the heat better, or using a higher temp solder for the connection to the button tabs. But this works for now and I don’t have to worry about shorting the contacts on the metal plate.
I grinded AND put a dent in the bottom plate to get the stick to move with out scraping. I didn’t have to grind the stick shaft at all. I would probably try just putting a dent in the metal next time.
The little contact pads for the joystick directions are fragile! One of them lifted and I thought it was left over solder, so I yanked on it. :rolleyes: Luckily there was enough contact left to solder a wire to. It’s such a small patch, though, that I shoe-gooed the wire to the PCB so the joint wouldn’t be bearing the whole weight of the wire. If I had it to do over again, I’d de-solder the existing joystick wires from the hori switches, and solder them directly to the switch tabs on the JLF, so you wouldn’t even have to worry about messing with those little contact patches - you’d just be using the existing wire that’s there. Just note down the colors as they relate to the direction. This would also save you the $3 or whatever it costs for the wire harness.
Anyway, that’s what I’ve found doing this. I don’t think this mod is particularly difficult. If you know how to solder, have a Dremel, and read through this thread, it’s very do-able. A multi-meter helps to confirm your connections. Pick one up from Harbor Freight for like $1.99. I DO think if you can easily afford either stick, the SE stick will give you more playing time and less modding time. If you already have the FS3, and are happy with the layout, save your money and mod it!