I open up my ps3 hori stick, desoldered the buttons and fightstick. Dremel the holes and got the obsf30 to fit. When I got to soldering the JLF wires into the PCB I think I screwed up and rip out alittle bit of green that’s around the soldered hole that goes to the PCB and now I don’t think it work.
How do I test to see if It works?, Do I need to solder one ground and test the rest…or can I just put the wire thru the hole and test it without soldering. I don’t even know which one is ground on my JLF wire harness ><.
It seems you went with the same setup I did (I messed up bad, and now my FS3 is sitting inside a box). Radioshack equipment sucks. The tip is probably not going to work. If you’re careful, you can use the side of ironing tip (slanted portion) to melt the solder. Also get a soldering bulb, its much easier to use. Anyway, that’s what I experienced. I’m sure others will have better suggestions because they were actually successful with 15w!
It took a while to figure it out my first time too. here are some tips:
1 Tn your iron. If you don’t, oxidization can and will occur and you will lose heat. you can tell if it is oxidized by the metal turning brown. sand it off if you can.
2 I don’t think its recommended, but I do it anyways. Jab the tip inside the braid a little bit and then move the iron around the solder. it will suck it up in no time. remember to clean and retin your tip.
3 If you are taking too long, you could possibly burn your PCB. take a 10 minute break and try it again.
Just take your time and you’ll figure out the technique. :assta:
Ive completed 2 sticks and his another I’m working on with a 15w soldering iron. It works just fine.
-Tin the tip, and use the side of it not the point for best heat transfer.
-After I held the iron to the solder I wanted to deslder for a bit I added a bit of fresh rosin core solder to the joint to help with heat transfer all around the bead. It worked really well.
Use a desoldering bulb. I used that for the big solder gobs, then I used the braid for the small jobs. Also It seems the Radio Shack brand braid isn’t that great from what I’ve read. It’ll work on clean up and stuff but I doubt it’ll work that well on a whole gob. That’s why I loved my desoldering bulb.
Remeber also that a 15watt iron is more forgiving with regards burning out parts. I’ve managed not to heat damage any of my projects with it. I love the thing.
Yeah, I used the 15w from radio shack and it worked fine. Tin the tip definitely. I watched a “how to solder” video on youtube and it was really informative, haha. Didn’t have any problems out of it.
Wow thanks for all the quick replies. I just started tinning the iron with the solder and it worked really well. I used Ragnorok’s tip in adding more solder to the connection then heat it up then suck it out with the desolder bulb. It worked perfectly in getting all the solder to come off the board.
From what I’ve read, you can either create your own art using the HFS3 template, or use artworks created by other people on the forum. Then you can take it to either Staples or Kinkos and get it printed out then put it onto the HFS3.
I well aware of that, but I’m looking for a step-by-step instruction on the entire process.
Plenty of people have explained certain aspects of it, or have different approaches to the process.
I think you would want to use the snap ins because of the thin metal. I am sure the screw ins will work too, but it might be a pain with screwing the nuts in there.
OSBF are snap ins and OSBN are screw ins. The Hori-ble buttons are snap in, but the holes in the metal have a little tab coming out so you need to dremel them out before you can put the OSBF buttons in.
If you search for FS3 or EX2 templates, you will find tons. Then upload to your favorite image editing program and add your artwork. after that, there are plenty of options: lami-label, marquee, vinyl, whatever you want.
I’ll set up the PS2 PCB like this one here in the links above.**
I’m reading through FAQs and Tutorials right now and I’d like to take some precautions and figure out what problems I may run into.
At the moment seeing how Sanwa and Siemetsu parts are extremely hard to come by, (Sanwa JLF joystick, Sanwa Buttons etc.) I’d like to use the stock parts for now until I run into some high quality parts later down the road.
I have a good idea how to wire everything up properly (thanks to the many diagrams available) but my problem right now is figuring out how to use the start and select buttons on the Fighting Stick 3 to work with the PS2 PCB.
It uses it’s own PCB wired to the main PCB so I’m not sure how to approach this.
If anyone has an answer or several suggestions and tips to help a fellow out or even an actual guide for doing this, that would be greatly appreciated.
Any other feedback related to this idea would also be appreciated like a comparison between stock parts vs High quality parts.
