Can we sticky this thread? plllllllease? 
i dont know bout searching around this whole thread for info
which was why i made this thread http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=181210
Ah, yeah, I did a LS-56 spring mod to my LS-33 too. As soon as I got the LS-33, I knew that the spring was waaaay too loose for me to play on and I had planned on doing that mod in the beginning.
I did find a problem with the spring mod thoughā¦ That thereās a sometimes slight stickiness when moving the stick to certain corners. This is because the diameter of the LS-56 spring is smaller than the LS-33 spring and there is a groove in the LS-33 actuator that perfectly matches the LS-33 springās diameter and keeps it in place. Therefore, the LS-56 spring occasionally gets kind of caught in the groove and shifts around when you move the stick to certain corners. It kind of feels like you have to use a little bit more effort to get it all the way. Most of the time, you donāt feel it or you donāt really notice it. I almost never notice it during gameplay and for me, itās a very small trade-off for having a tighter spring (which feels more like a JLF, at least compared to before). In my opinion, the spring mod is worth having despite the side-effect.
But anyway, Iām glad to hear that your mod went well. :wgrin:
booooooooooooooo. i want a spring dude. maybe i should see if anyone on here has one so i dont have to wait forever to get one.
i am about to print out a template at kinkos and have it lami-labeled for my fs3. should i shrink the image about 2 mm so that the lami-label will stay together after i cut it?
So Iām thinking about taking my FS3 and switching the PCB for a 360 PCB since I will have 2 other PS3 sticks. I want to replace the stick though. What joystick do you guys think would require the most minimum amount of work to get it to fit? Iām thinking of using an LS33, I use it on my other stick and love it, its nice and short so I wonāt need to grind the base plate, but not sure how I would go about mounting it.
Anyway, Iām going to give this thread one more read.
anyone want to mod my fs3 with a jlf and quick disconnects? i would be willing to pay through paypal and maybe throw in a game. shoot me a pm if interested.
just got my artwork lami labeled. it only cost 2.50 for print and everything! good deal and it looks real nice.
Oc
Alright, finished this a while ago, but figured Iād share since this thread was so helpful. My first mod.
Sanwa stick
Seimitsu buttons
Flat black/white paint with clear
Also, Rust-proofed the top panel with some krylon metal primer
http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r272/BnR-34/xan-stick.jpg
holly Crap nice stick man. Looks really good.
Is it possible to mod the buttons and joystick but still keep the stock artwork intact?
Yep, but depends on how your modding it. Some have top mounted a joystick to the plastic base underneath the top metal plate. You would have to remove the sticker to get to the screws.
were you able to get enough clearance on the bottom for the jlf or did you cut a hole there?
For those who painted the top plate, what is the easiest way to do so? I want to avoid sanding, that takes way too long. And what did you use?
I had to sand down the bottom plate with a rotary tool in order to get enough clearance for the stick. Itās not ideal, or pretty, but it works.
Some may do it different but I just removed the top sticker, applied a few layers of rust-proof metal primer then sprayed my top coats over that, followed by a couple coats of clear. I used all krylon brand spray paint, if you need me to be that specific.
Wow that looks nice. Whatās the model # on that Sanwa stick? Are those buttons PS-14-KN 30mm?
So Iām currently working on my stick, and Iām thinking about using the HORI shaft on my JLF. My question is, will this make the joystick not feel as good as the JLF? And has anybody tried this and actually liked the outcome?
Thanks for the compliments, guys.
I used the JLF-TP-8Y-SK, and yes, the buttons are the PS-14-KN 30mm.
I began soldering yesterday and my 15w iron is shit. The board is still not desoldered. If I get another iron with higher wattage, how do I clean up the small amount of solder? The bulb seems to work on a small glob, not a flatish amount. Hope that makes sense and sorry for soundy so noob, first mod.
The 15watt is fine. Itās what Iāve been using. I used to use a 30 watt when I fixed my MP3 but after using this 15watt Iām not using the 30w on a PCB unless I have to. I donāt have to worry as much about damaging the PCB with the heat it puts out and it melts solder just fine.
Get yourself some desoldering braid. I also added some fresh solder to a joint I was desoldering to aid in heat conduction. Add a little fresh solder then suck up the whole mass. Then go over it with Desoldering braid.