hopefully i can get an answet this time but how hard did you guys find this the first time you moded a stick?? im a beginner at this so im just trying to get an idea on it. i got my fs3 last thursday so i plan to but better parts to get a more responsive control. any help would be awesome!!!
@Epic: I’m not quite sure where the alternative soldering points could be (if there are any for my case) sigh…
Huey, if you burnt the solder ring you can try to solder your wire directly on the trace further where it’s not damaged.
http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv158/zordrack57/PICT0031.jpg
Red dots are just example where you could solder it, that should shortcut the damaged area.
Hope this help
Thanks for this Zordrack - Do I solder directly to the green of the pcb or do i need to scrape the PCB then solder?
I think it can be solder directly, if you want to scrap it first do it very gently. As long as your wire make contact with the trace you’ll be fine.
Ouch, yes you would have to scrape it very carefully and then solder
don’t screw up when soldering. hopefully the trace leads to a better soldering spot otherwise dont screw up
Fiveways, what i meant was what were you doing to mount the stick. if you were using the bottom part with the plastic screwholes then the screws wouldn’t be seen.
However if your cutting out the plastic and using the top panel to mount the stick, then you have a problem with the screws revealing. Look at ma picture guide and it’ll tell you what to do. (too lazy to look at what i did).
Get a Toodles Cthulhu PC/PS3 Board
Like this one http://www.lizardlickamusements.com/pages/boards.shtml
You dont need to do any soldering with this board, so you should be fine.:wgrin:
This might be usefull
http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv158/zordrack57/Cthulhu.jpg
ok, i had that problem with the copper ring thing falling off, but luckily i found a way to solve it
when i scraped off the green on the trace it worked when i put the wire to it, BUT as soon as i get solder on there it just holds that input (it was the up, so it just kept jumping and i couldn’t do anything else)
so, i crazy glued the thing and works like a charm, just another option if anyone runs into the same problem i did
@Zordrack: Thanks - I actually ordered one direct from Toodles on SRK forums a few moments ago 
@Pr3y11: No use for me - I tried this and nothing; I couldn’t get any of the solder to stick to the trace.
no my solution wasn’t the solder, it was the crazyglue… i held my wire to the exposed trace and it worked… so i just glued it down
solder seemed to mess it up when i tried, and yes it doesnt stick at first, but when i scraped a bit more and exposed the copper the solder did stick to it
This is why I used flux like it was going out of style on the amount of FS3 I’ve been able to mod thus far (my sanwa parts won’t be here in forever!)and my SE mod. It promotes solder flow like magic.
Is there a clean, easy to read guide on this yet?
That shows recommended parts and a step-by-step tutorial on modding it?
What angle are the american style controller surfaces at? 15 degrees? The japanese ones are flat, right?
When my copper ring came off I first soldered it back, and when that didn’t work I scraped bare the copper wire close to the ring, and soldered one big blob from ring to wire and my own wire. Couldn’t get the solder to stick otherwise.
Sort of. I think the Horis are tilted just 3 degrees.
Got a question about wiring. Cause I only have 30AWG, I looked on radioshack
and wondering if I should go buy these 24AWG, but says “Conductor Intercom Wire”. Can this be use as well to solder?
I know read a couple of pages back it is okay to use 30 AWG because I don’t have the wiring harness for my Sanwa JLF, just want to make sure I can use them on the stick and buttons.
Anyone put 2 pcbs in one of these yet? i know it’ll be a tight fit, but just curious. I have a fs3 and I want to put a 360 pcb in from one of the those madcatz retro sticks.
I don’t recommend the Retro stick PCB for dual PCB mod on the Fight Stick 3 specifically. The retro stick PCB is VERY LARGE, it’s already very tight in FS3, so I recommend you use the madcatz game pad (the cheap 25 bucks one) instead. It is smaller so easier for you to fit in that tight space.
I’m dying right now waiting for my parts to come in. I want to start working on my stick already so i can start playing the game for real.(upon completion of course)
if you arn’t used to sticks, the hori stock is still good for getting used to them. So i’d start messing with them now.
Otherwise HF waiting
Finished my first stick mod! All Sanwa parts inside of a FS3. Probably not the easiest stick to start modding considering how much dremelling and soldering is required.
http://judecca.shackspace.com/fs3/DSC01459s.jpg
http://judecca.shackspace.com/fs3/DSC01462s.jpg
http://judecca.shackspace.com/fs3/DSC01465s.jpg
http://judecca.shackspace.com/fs3/DSC01464s.jpg
All using quick disconnects. It’s pretty easy where I melted some plastic with the soldering iron. Whoops.
I used a lot of guides, but the coverless tech one was really helpful, being video. I did use his method for mounting the JLF with the long screws through the microswitches.