Modding the Hori Fighting Stick 3

[System_1]

I finished the re-wiring of an older stick mod I’ve done. After such great results with my my latest mod, I wasn’t happy with the quality of this one, so I disassembled and de-soldered and snipped everything out, and re-did this one to my (new) higher standards. This has a JLF stick with a tighter LS-55 spring, along with OBSF-30 buttons.

I’m waiting on OBSF buttons to be sold widely again before I complete them - I intend on putting green plungers into the white rims for a unique look that matches well with the white top. I replaced the bottom metal plate with a lami-flex plexiglass plate I cut and shaped myself. I need to do a few things to finish that up as well, such as put on some rubber feet and plastic washers. All said, I am very happy with it so far.

Very cleaaannnnnnnn

[Fiveways]

any idea on a good way to go about not having the screws show up through the artwork?

[Twinniss]

Fiveways: this is with which guide you are using?

[System_1]

any idea on a good way to go about not having the screws show up through the artwork?

If you mean have the artwork go on top of the screws on the top plate. Mount the joystick, then screw the top plate back onto the casing. Put artwork down, then put buttons in. This is what TingBoy told me a few weeks back.

[System_1]

hey guys, i recently put in some sanwa buttons, octaganol plate and changed the mixroswitches to white cherry switches. I also replaced the ball with bat adapter. Wen playing it is very hard to dash as thr throw has become more… Why is this?? Is it the switches coz they feel softer then the stock hori ones. Could it be the bat top or new octacagonal plate? Ps would swapping with sanwa jlf solve this? Thanx in advance

[Ragnorok64]

hey guys, i recently put in some sanwa buttons, octaganol plate and changed the mixroswitches to white cherry switches. I also replaced the ball with bat adapter. Wen playing it is very hard to dash as thr throw has become more… Why is this?? Is it the switches coz they feel softer then the stock hori ones. Could it be the bat top or new octacagonal plate? Ps would swapping with sanwa jlf solve this? Thanx in advance

Isn’t the bat top longer than the stock shaft and ball?

[System_1]

Received my parts a few days ago from aki`shop and plan on getting my mod underway in the next few days. Here’s to hoping I don’t stuff up or cut myself with the dremel!

[System_1]

Hey all, got a bat top to put on my HRAP EX-SE. Just wondering whether it’s better to open the case from the top or the bottom.
All I have to do is use a flat head screwdriver and twist the gum ball off and replace it with the bat right?
Cheers.

[System_1]

I just printed it at Officeworks then got it laminated there. I laminated it before I cut it to the shape of the plate so it does have open edges. So far it hasn’t been a problem but I heard it could start to peel.

I used a spray adhesive from Bostik to stick it on the plate, I don’t recommend the Bostik brand its a bit messy go for 3M brand I heard its much more better.

I recommend printing it yourself if you have a good colour printer on paper with a matte finish then cutting it to the size of the front plate then getting it laminated. I was on a budget that’s why I used that option. I asked around and all I could find was that a vinyl sticker was the way to go but it cost around $60~$70AUD from the quotes I got which was too much. I’m in Sydney though I don’t know if you can find other places in the other states that have better options.

I can print using coloured laser printer in my uni but they only use regular papers. Do you think it will be fine?

[MIVLives]

Partly modded HFS3

I modded my FS3, just waiting for Akihabarashop to start taking orders again. The buttons from my Madcatz FightStick SE finally became useful; I did have a black Sanwa balltop…

http://mysite.verizon.net/kjcordero/HFS3/HFS3_front.jpg

Madcatz SE look

http://mysite.verizon.net/kjcordero/HFS3/HFS3_inside.jpg

I didn’t organize the wires yet.

I wanted an image template to emulate the Madcatz SE look. What do you guys think? Sorry for the crappy cellphone pics.

[dav3yb]

i like it! i might use mine more if it looked like that (although my TE is the MAIN reason i dont use it)

[rapturedj]

anyone??

[System_1]

Crap guys, I think I just stuffed up the down direction on my board ): the solder won’t stick to the connection. Is there any way to fix this or is my PCB screwed?

[Alucard13mm]

I just ordered a fs3 and a couple parts to begin modifying it. I plan on using the below image that I made using a template from the forums. I want to take it to kinkos tomorrow to get it printed off, but the problem is I don’t know if it will print correctly because the resolution (it is very high 3324x1772). Does the resolution matter at all when printing the template? My apologies for the noobish question.

http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/7074/cviperfs3bn.jpg

[System_1]

Phase one of my mod. This was my first wiring job and was absolutely horrible, because I used short wires. It worked though, and thank you sanwa for making it easier.

The parts are Sanwa OBSF30s (had to sand down the tabs on the buttons, and clip the tabs on the control panel) and a custom hybrid JLF/Hori stick.

Next I either add art or change box.

[System_1]

I just ordered a fs3 and a couple parts to begin modifying it. I plan on using the below image that I made using a template from the forums. I want to take it to kinkos tomorrow to get it printed off, but the problem is I don’t know if it will print correctly because the resolution (it is very high 3324x1772). Does the resolution matter at all when printing the template? My apologies for the noobish question.

Make sure you have the image in 300 dpi, I believe your using the Fiveways template it is already set as 300 dpi. The resolution won’t really determine the size of the print.

@huey: can you provide a picture?

[System_1]

anyone??

I wouldn’t worry too much just takes a little patience and research. I was a total noob to modding, didn’t know anything about soldering or wiring.

Go to this thread set up by Twinniss, it’s more organised than this one if you are getting started:

http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=181210

[System_1]

@huey: can you provide a picture?

Sure, sorry about the quality - it’s the best I could do with an iPhone that doesn’t have macro…

http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/8053/img0065r.jpg

http://img21.imageshack.us/img21/6694/img0069x.jpg

http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/3401/img0071l.jpg

If you can’t make out the problem area, pretty much when I try to solder the yellow wire from my joystick wire harness (which is for the down direction of my joystick), the solder will not make contact with the ‘ring’ of the connection point on the PCB but it the solder will stick to the end of the wire.

I think the ‘ring’ (which is copper if I am not mistaken) has been burnt off but I’m not too sure. All I know is that I am unable to make the down direction of my joystick work because I can’t solder the wire to the connection point of the PCB.

Am I pretty much screwed? Sucks so much 'cos everything else works fine…
Here’s a quick shot of my stick (even though it isn’t fully functional 'cos of that darn downward direction problem).

http://img509.imageshack.us/img509/1338/img0063.jpg

[Fiveways]

Twinniss - I’ll be printing it using the template I made Someone else figured it out already, its just a matter of putting it on after the screws, which makes sense, i was just confused about how to go about putting the screws in first, then laying the art on and THEN putting in the buttons because i was thinking that’d make cutting the button holes a bitch but I guess I can just cut the button holes BEFORE i peel off the back of the sticker.

[System_1]

@ Huey. I had that same problem with my FS3 PCB. I identified the alternative solder points and it worked fine. In some cases it was salvageable, as long as the copper trace is intact, you can solder to it.