The grinding method for the stick and the bottom plate is easy. It also looks more professional IMO. If you look underneath the stick, theres that piece that you stick a flat-head screwdriver to tighten the ball top, you have to grind this more into a dome shape so you can still use the slot for the flat-head. and then whittle away at the bottom plate where the stick travels… When you mount the bottom plate, apply some pressure on the top plate and move the stick around to feel if it doesnt scrape or get stuck. once you grind it down right, itll be good as gravy!
Well I’m planning on jamming one of these

into my FS3 and SE arcade stick.
now I haven’t modded sticks before so it’ll be a learning experience. Here’s my theory thus far.
I’ll get my new buttons and end the contacts out like this with Quick disconnects.

I bought to 12 position European terminal strips so I’ll run the on set of wires to the buttons and stick and the other side to the PCB(s) I’ll probably put them on the side with the stick, there seems to be room there. I’ll move the stock PCB as far upwards as I can and try and jam the 360 one in there below it. or possibly between those two big circular posts/columns. Is it possible to cut those down to make more vertical clearance?
That’s the theory right now anyway. I still have to scour the dual PCB thread to figure out a method to my madness.
Since the hori PCB is common ground how do I manage to wire it so I only need one ground wire to my Terminal Strip?
I’ve been scouring through this thread for weeks now waiting for my Sanwa parts to arrive so I can begin modding my new FS3. But I finally felt the urge to register to find out more about this very point raised by raggy.
I appreciate all the templates and whatnot being posted here, but no matter how hard I looked, I couldn’t seem to work out some important details for use of these templates. For example, what are the print diameters of the blank template posted by Twinns? Without these I don’t really know what to tell the printer in regards to paper size, etc. As raggy said, photoshop defaults to 72 ppi, which would produce a massive picture if printed to scale.
Can anyone shed some light on this? Unfortunately I’m a bit restricted in being able to test it out, because I don’t have a printer locally available, and have to send in my art online to get it printed on a suitable material.
Umm, if the PhotoShop template is set up correctly, then it will print at the correct size by default. (The printer still needs to select Landscape orientation though.) You can check its dimensions by pressing CTRL + Alt + I.
And having checked the template in PhotoShop, it is indeed set up at the correct dimensions (~6 x 11 inches) at a 300 dpi resolution.
Which link are you referring to Bomberman (just to check).
When I open the one I’m using in photoshop, it defaults to 72 ppi. When I resize that to 300 dpi (without resampling, of course) then it’s far too small, and comes in at 4x8ish.
I’m struggling to see what the discrepancy is here, there must be something I’m not doing right (I am quite familiar with photoshop & printing, so it’s very strange).
EDIT: This is the one I’ve been using: http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d96/Networkingyuppy/fightingsticktemplatesshx8.jpg
Thanks Kamirasenken
I was wondering though if I could just get away with grinding down the bottom of the case?
Don’t really want to grinding down the stick just in case I make a mistake and wont be able to use the screw for the ball top.
Windburn, forget that old thing! Here’s a proper template, thanks to Fiveways:
Thanks SO much for that. You’re a champion
Don’t know how I missed that excellent template by fiveways, but it’s been a godsend.
No problem. This thread is terribly disorganized since the original post has never been updated. I might have to create a superior thread and see if everybody wants to switch over…
i have a question, for the photoshop template, i thought the original resolution was 2500x1333…but when I use the one given by Bomberman, the resolution is 3324x1772…so all my images are small compared to that when using the new template. Or does the resolution not matter? as long as the inches is 11.08x5.907 my image will be fine when printed? please clarify this…
Hey guys, I don’t know if anybody had this idea, but forget about adding weight to your joystick. Use this sticky gum instead, I don’t know how it’s called but you can probably find it in any tools and hardware store… people use it to stick poster to wall and stuff like that.
Thrust me that work, my fightstick wont move a bit when I perform those 360 move for zangied ultra ! You can get excited as much as you want your fightstick will stay in place That will stick on any hard surface without damaging it and you can remove it easily.
http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv158/zordrack57/DSC01744.jpg
http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv158/zordrack57/DSC01745.jpg
http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv158/zordrack57/DSC01743.jpg
Btw I know my art work suck, it’s a work in progress
That’s an interesting idea of using adhesive gum, but it doesn’t do the trick for those who mostly play with the stick on their laps. Nice creativity though.
By the way, I’m still contemplating the weight problem… I’m thinking about just making my own concrete weights right now.
trust me, you dont have to grind the parts gratuitously. You will be able to use the flat-head guaranteed… unless youre getting all crazy with a dremel. HAHAHAHAHA
Has anybody tried using the stock hori joystick shaft on the JLF?
I just made my version of the template 300dpi with the dimensions given earlier in the thread. As long as you’re using a version thats 300dpi with the correct physical dimensions you shouldn’t have a problem when printing.
Thanks for the praise on the template guys. Networkingyuppy deserves credit for the original template, I just made it a little more hassle-free.
Oh, and bomberman…making a new thread would be awesome if we could just retain all of the good information from this thread but make it more accessible and have it started by someone that will be around to modify the original post when need-be, haha. Theres already a lot of guides on getting the Sanwa sticks in and we just got a grip of pictures on getting an ls-33 successfully in so linking to guides on the specific hardware in the first post would save people a looooooooootttt of searching lol.
so the correct dimensions are 11x6 inches basically? as long as the image prints to this it’s fine? man im still confused as hell, dpi ppi, all in my butt =(
DPI is dots per inch. The higher that number, the more dots per inch will be printed and thus a better looking picture. But you have to balance that with the size of the artwork you want to use. If you take a tiny picture and blow it up to 300 DPI to use with the good template, you may lose a lot of picture quality. There are various ways around this, such as turning the image into a vector with Illustrator first. But always try to get the largest possible image to work with first.
Anyway, the bar minimum for a quality print is 125 DPI and 200 DPI is a lot safer. If you have to, feel free to reduce the template’s DPI a little, but don’t mess with the actual dimensions.
I just did a test print with the Fiveways template. It fit perfectly.
Don’t stretch the image to fit the page though as that will make it bigger.
It translates to 11.08 x 5.907 inches in photoshop.
Would it be right for me to say that the image to put under the template would also have to be 300dpi to preserve image quality?
This is what I’m doing to my image:
- I resize the image to 300ppi in photoshop unchecking the resampling.
- I then resize again using the resolution to fit the template
Just make the image fit the # of pixels of the template. Ignore the image’s original DPI.
Also it’s a good idea to make your whole image on the template slightly larger than the joystick’s outer shape so that you’ll have a little leeway when lining it up. If you make the image exactly fit the outline of the stick but you line the lami-label a little too far to one side, the metal plate will end up showing on the other side. (If that made any sense!)