So has anyone here succefully modded one of these? I’m for someone to mod mine for a price… I really don’t have enough time on my hands to learn how to do it, and I dont have any tools.
Also this is irrelavent to fs3’s but I’ll ask anyway, I have a competition stick and the spring on it is very loose. Does anyone here know of a stiffer spring and where I can order it from?
I found that I was able to successfully top-mount an LS-33 (without a mounting plate) without any problems and with zero modification of the bottom plate. I basically just Dremel cut out the four plastic screw tabs coming up from the bottom of the stick section. Then I would align four holes to fit on the corners of the LS-33 with a pencil or something so I could actually use the included screws that would be used for the mounting plate. Then, I would drill the holes one by one, checking that the screws would be aligned correctly and then widening the holes fairly liberally to make them fit if I made a mistake. Then, I would slightly widen the top of the holes from the top of the plastic case so that the screws would sit flush with the surface on the plastic.
That was a horrible explanation, so next time I do a FS3 mod, I’ll document it and take pictures. >_>
im in need of help… ok im trying to make the fs3 wireless… using the axis thing from lizard licks… but i want to keep the turbo functions… what solder points do i need to use.?
Will the stock Hori stick work with a Sanwa Octogate without too much work? I’m noticing my biggest problem with SF4 atm are the rolls. I’m new to the 2D environment so anything I can do to make the SRK’s easier (I play Chun-Li, but it’d still be nice to be able to do them.). I’d grab the Sanwa stick & buttons too but it ends up being around 60$ that I don’t have at the moment. :\
Thanks.
Hey dudes I am about to order some parts to mod my FS3 I just purchased today… and was wondering what the difference is between the JLF-TP-8YT and the JLF-TP-8YT-SK?
same stick except for ‘SK’ = shaft cover
Thanks Lusche, the JLF-TP-8YT-SK is actually cheaper on akihabarashop.jp than the JLF-TP-8YT, so would any suggest getting the one with the shaft cover over the one without the shaft cover?
get the shaft cover version … if you dont like it remove it and use the dust washer from your fs3 to get a JLF-TP-8YT :rolleyes:
The spiral wrap and marker tabs are from where I work. I’m an electrial engineer and we do lots of panel wiring, so all my parts ( including cable, cable ties and spade crimps ) come from work. Sorry that’s not much help to you.
For the PS3 version, with the harness connecter facing right.
Black - Green - Space - Red - Space - Yellow -Space - Orange
The stick and board share a common live feed, so there’s no need to mod the joystick wiring or loop out the common lives.
I received some comments about how I mounted an LS-33 so I opened up my stick and took some pictures to try to show you guys how I did it.
http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/706/completedinside.png
This is the inside of the stick and fits perfectly fine, just as well as the stock Hori stick. The bottom of the shaft isn’t protruding out or anything.
http://img22.imageshack.us/img22/7881/completedtop.png
This is the top of the stick. (Completed result)
http://img21.imageshack.us/img21/3748/cutout.png
Basically, first, you have to cut out (with a Dremel) the original tabs for the screws that would go into the original Hori stick. You can see that they’re cut off in the center of the top, bottom, left, and right sides.
http://img16.imageshack.us/img16/2103/insidewithpencil.png
After you cut out the tabs, you have to carefully align the stick so you can drill the holes and not be off-center. One way to align the center of the stick is to look at the top of the stick. As you can see two pictures above this one, the circular part of the LS-33 is the exact same size as the hole in the casing so you can align it to the center of the stick. And then you have to make sure that the sides of the stick are perpendicular/parallel to the sides of the inside. I’m sorry that I can’t explain this part any better.
Then you mark the holes that you’re gonna drill. I used a mechanical pencil to mark a dot on the plastic casing. One smart way to do this is to tape a Post-It note to the other side first so that the mark is easier to see. But there’s a bunch of ways you could do this if you’re clever enough.
http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/6029/screwin.png
Then you start drilling holes from the inside first, one at a time. I would test the hole first by screwing in a screw and then readjusting the alignment of the stick or widening the holes if necessary.
http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/3820/screwsout.png
In the end, this is the final result of the holes. It’s ok to widen the holes pretty liberally as you can see that the bottom left hole is a lot larger than the other ones. I had to readjust that a lot to fix the alignment.
http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/237/insidebeforepencil.png
You can use the same screws that would screw the LS-33 with the mounting plate. What’s nice about the screws is that the heads are completely flat. As you can see in the screw hole on the bottom right corner, the screw is not too short so it gets in quite fine even with the thickness of the casing.
http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/5527/hole.png
To get the screws flush in the plastic casing, you need to widen the top part of the hole until you can basically screw the screw completely in. You should be careful to only widen the top of the hole (somewhat halfway through the thickness of the casing) because the screwhead really isn’t that thick.
http://img16.imageshack.us/img16/3882/topflush.png
And as you can see, the screws are completely flush with the plastic and the metal plate will cover it perfectly fine.
And that’s pretty much it. Sorry this isn’t really a step-by-step picture tutorial or anything and the pictures don’t exactly show what you have to do, but I just snapped some pics so you could see what I was talking about.
Also, is this considered a top-mount or a bottom-mount? I’m not really sure about the terminology. I thought that this was considered a top mount because I had the impression that it referred to the way the screws were screwed in.
Hahaha wow this thread effin grew! I was the guy who posted the written how to… if people still have questions lemme know. I’m back in the loop since SFIV started making me wanna play again.
-Kamirasenken
Nice. I placed my order for parts last night so I’m sure I’ll be hitting up this thread in the near future for advise.
Same here - placed my order on akihabarashop last night too and will receive them in a week or 2. Can’t wait to get this thing started, but knowing me, I’m gonna need some help.
Good job! I was planning to mount my stick on the top metal plate (already drilled the holes on the plate), but this looks easier.
How’s the height? Does the stick feels short when you mount it on the plastic?
I don’t really notice a height difference from playing on that and my HRAP2 SA. It certainly doesn’t feel different in terms of height from the stock stick. But then again, I also have small hands. The difference from what you’re doing is probably like less than five millimeters.
Here are some completed pictures. I can do close ups if you want.
http://photos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-snc1/v2467/30/45/729281643/n729281643_1978640_7833.jpg
http://photos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-snc1/v2467/30/45/729281643/n729281643_1978641_8110.jpg
I’ve looked through this whole thread before, but I can’t remember if it’s possible to mod this stick for a dual PCB setup. ? Is it?
It should be technically possible to do a dual PCB set up because I think the FS3 PCB is common ground, but good luck fitting another PCB in such a small case.
Yeah, it’s common ground, and a tight fit for additional PCBs.
Could people share on how they modded the bottom plate of the fighting stick 3. I will be modding mine soon but I want to get more ideas on how to get the Sanwa JLF-TP-8T stick to fit.
I have seen the wood spacer method, drilling hole method, sanding the bottom plate and stick method and denting the bottom with a hammer method. If people could provide visuals or links to visuals so I can get a better idea that would be great.
Also, I want to know if anyone in Australia is modding this stick and where they are getting their artwork printed as there is no Kinko’s in Australia anymore.
Thanks