I received some comments about how I mounted an LS-33 so I opened up my stick and took some pictures to try to show you guys how I did it.
http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/706/completedinside.png
This is the inside of the stick and fits perfectly fine, just as well as the stock Hori stick. The bottom of the shaft isn’t protruding out or anything.
http://img22.imageshack.us/img22/7881/completedtop.png
This is the top of the stick. (Completed result)
http://img21.imageshack.us/img21/3748/cutout.png
Basically, first, you have to cut out (with a Dremel) the original tabs for the screws that would go into the original Hori stick. You can see that they’re cut off in the center of the top, bottom, left, and right sides.
http://img16.imageshack.us/img16/2103/insidewithpencil.png
After you cut out the tabs, you have to carefully align the stick so you can drill the holes and not be off-center. One way to align the center of the stick is to look at the top of the stick. As you can see two pictures above this one, the circular part of the LS-33 is the exact same size as the hole in the casing so you can align it to the center of the stick. And then you have to make sure that the sides of the stick are perpendicular/parallel to the sides of the inside. I’m sorry that I can’t explain this part any better.
Then you mark the holes that you’re gonna drill. I used a mechanical pencil to mark a dot on the plastic casing. One smart way to do this is to tape a Post-It note to the other side first so that the mark is easier to see. But there’s a bunch of ways you could do this if you’re clever enough.
http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/6029/screwin.png
Then you start drilling holes from the inside first, one at a time. I would test the hole first by screwing in a screw and then readjusting the alignment of the stick or widening the holes if necessary.
http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/3820/screwsout.png
In the end, this is the final result of the holes. It’s ok to widen the holes pretty liberally as you can see that the bottom left hole is a lot larger than the other ones. I had to readjust that a lot to fix the alignment.
http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/237/insidebeforepencil.png
You can use the same screws that would screw the LS-33 with the mounting plate. What’s nice about the screws is that the heads are completely flat. As you can see in the screw hole on the bottom right corner, the screw is not too short so it gets in quite fine even with the thickness of the casing.
http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/5527/hole.png
To get the screws flush in the plastic casing, you need to widen the top part of the hole until you can basically screw the screw completely in. You should be careful to only widen the top of the hole (somewhat halfway through the thickness of the casing) because the screwhead really isn’t that thick.
http://img16.imageshack.us/img16/3882/topflush.png
And as you can see, the screws are completely flush with the plastic and the metal plate will cover it perfectly fine.
And that’s pretty much it. Sorry this isn’t really a step-by-step picture tutorial or anything and the pictures don’t exactly show what you have to do, but I just snapped some pics so you could see what I was talking about.
Also, is this considered a top-mount or a bottom-mount? I’m not really sure about the terminology. I thought that this was considered a top mount because I had the impression that it referred to the way the screws were screwed in.