Modding the Hori Fighting Stick 3

chances are one day ur fighting stick without mod will just die half way~:wasted:

NOOB question.

Does it matter which wire connects to which side of a button? There are to 2 wires for each button but which one goes where? Does it matter?

No it does **NOT **matter because Hori is NOT common ground.

Sony FW900? :smiley:

How about just replacing the gate on the stick? Would that improve things much or should I just put a new one in there?

The Hori gate already feels less “Square” than the JLF square gate.

As for improving “things” (since you didn’t clarify what you meant), I assume you want to replace the Hori square gate with Sanwa Octogate. With Octogate mod, you can do “quarter/half circle” moves easier than the Hori square gate.

Even the mod mentioned above, you are still stuck with Hori parts. Like Hori’s microswitches (very “clicky” noises), Hori springs (slightly tighter than JLF single spring but feels mushy) but if those 2 things don’t bother you, then go for it, it’s relatively easy to just change the gate.

If you’re planning to use quick disconnects, there won’t be enough space to screw the back lid. It won’t work period.

:lovin:
It’s on the fritz lately and I’m searching for a lcd successor (still have a crt rgb a few feet away).

PaladinCheese got it to work.

Seems I just have to bend the connections outward.

it looks a hard job for me~but i think if you can mod FS3, you can save a lot money for now…

I have a really strange problem with my PCB. I had just finished my mod but then after a while, my Square button stopped working. It might have to do with my PCB probably short circuiting by touching the bottom metal plate. I have QDs so the back of the PCB is pushed against the plate. I’ve got that solved now by covering it in electrical tape.

I’ve resoldered the wire twice and removed the quick disconnect. I’ve diagnosed it and I found that the signal for the Square is acting very strangely. The ground for it works perfectly fine and activates all the other signals. However, when the signal doesn’t activate upon any ground and actually activates now upon release when touching another signal (or when I pinch the end of the wire with my finger.

Does anyone have any clue what’s going on? It’s acting really strange and I’m not sure what to do about it.

I think I’m going to give in and mod this…mainly because I’m sick of the way it looks out of the box after looking at all the sick mods on this site, lol. I actually don’t mind the ball stick as much as I thought I was going to, or even the buttons for that matter, but if I could replace them with ones that are gonna last longer I’m all for the idea, considering I only spent $50 on this stick. Any money I put into ordering new parts would still = less than buying a custom stick from someone or getting one of those new/sold-out-everywhere sticks, right? :slight_smile:

Does anyone have a problem with their ball hand flipping the “turbo” switch to slow during play by accident?

I’ve never flipped the turbo switch by accident.

Damn so it is possible to swap out the whole stick, rather than just replacing the gate. I too want the real deal, now i just have to figure out a way to get around part where you said it would stick out more than the box.

I just ordered a PS3 Fighting Stick 3 (which I believe is the same thing). I’m new to modding sticks and needed some advice. I’m not sure which are the exact parts to buy for this model. Do all the buttons and joysticks sold on LizardLick able to fit without any necessary adjustments, such as making the holes bigger, sanding etc?

Order the parts that are listed on the first page of this thread. That’s what I did. Just waiting for the parts to come in.

thanks

What is the difference between the JLF TP-8Y-T joystick and the JLF-TP-8T ??

i think its just the pcb rotated 90 … you can rotate it yourself if you want … just remove the gate and rotate the pcb and put the gate back … so its the same

so really there is not much difference. i just ordered that stick i’ll order the JLF TP-8Y-T since thats what the original poster is using to make his. i’ll be on here with alot of questions once i get it. i am looking forward to it.