Modding the Hori Fighting Stick 3

do post up some photos and notes too!:lovin:

:rofl:, hopefully it works because I don’t want to shave any of the parts off.

To use the 4 inner holes, I assume you drilled 4 holes through the top plate!? If you did that, then yes its all you need (4 inner holes have a machine nut in them already, so you will need to use machine screws).

To secure most joysticks, 4 screws are more than sufficient.

hahax that would be good~

did u do any drilling too?

if no to all… please post up detail step by step photos~ :lovin:

one question, the part to cut out with exacto are at all four sides right?

Ok, so I’ve been reading this entire thread a few times, and from what I get of it is that if you decide to use the sanwa JLF stick you’ll either have to ground/pound or cut a hole from the bottom panel cause the stick is too long? I also heard some suggesting grinding the joystick down, is that safe and how do you go about doing that?

Sorry if this has been answered before, but I can’t really browse around this site without getting a database error or a server is too busy message on every page, so I might as well just ask.

Yes, you will need to cut the taps on all 4 sides.

do you guys know if the seimitsu bubble ball top will fit on the stock hori joystick shaft?

I don’t want to drill 4 holes on my top plate though. Isn’t there a way to install the stick by just using the 4 screws that came with the hori fighting stick 3?

The only way to mount the JLF using the ORIGINAL Hori screws is to do the following:

  1. You CANNOT use the JLF PCB microswitches (the PCB blocks the holes needed to mount the stick), you **MUST **either use the original Hori microswitches or after market microswitches like the Happ Cherry switches.

  2. You MUST modify the JLF gate by drilling 4 holes as shown in the picture below.

In my previous posts, I’ve shown all 3 different methods of mounting JLF to Hori.

The only other way I haven’t shown is the method of drilling 4 holes through the top panel. This method is complicated and you will need some serious tools and skill to perform (drill + metal drill bit + precise locations of the 4 holes).

Okay, but what about this black piece here (not the joystick shaft):

Do I need to modify it still? I’m confused about all these pieces. So sorry about that.

I spent the weekend trying to figure out a way to mount an LS-32 stick into a Hori Wii Fighting stick. Ultimately, I gave up. I believe it’s possible if you are electing to remove the stock art and remove the top metal plate, but I like the art on the Hori Wii stick and don’t want to pull it off, which will likely destroy it.

I’m just going to put in a JLF-TP-8Y stick and replace the spring with a tighter spring, perhaps one from an LS-56, to try and simulate the tighter feel of the LS-32 over the JLF.

**READ **my previous POST !!!.

Here’s the link:

http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=136372&page=26#642

I got 2 questions:

  1. Will I have to remove the stick stock art if I decide to mod the buttons? I was thinking of making a custom artwork and printing it at Kinko’s but what kind of print style should I choose?

  2. I read a guide here: http://pineconeattack.com/2008/12/07/how-to-mod-the-hori-fighting-stick-ex2-with-authentic-arcade-parts-xbox-360-version/

They don’t talk about the black joystick piece at all. But they do make the 4 holes on the restrictor bigger. What boggles mine mind the most is when looking at this picture, http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3305/3303126190_8d9aec6708_b.jpg, there are 8 holes but the stick only has 4 holes where it screws on (I’m assuming those are the outter four). So what do those inner 4 screw on to? Thanks alot for the help faux123.

I planned to mod the Hori wii stick to xbox 360 wireless stick… I got common ground pcb as well as old matrix style pcb… Im not sure which one will be better for adding the turbo functionality… Any suggestions please…

Answer for Question 2:

The guide you mentioned used mostly STOCK HORI parts, only thing he added was Sanwa Octogate. That was **NOT **a true Authentic Japanese Arcade Mod as the author claimed for the joystick. The mods I’ve shown use the real JLF joystick parts so they are closer to “True authentic Japanese Arcade” if you want to think of it that way. All the white plastic square pieces in his guide were cheap stock Hori parts. They don’t last as long as Sanwa parts. Look around the forum, you will see people literally torn apart their Hori sticks due to frequent use or abuse.

The 4 inner holes on the black JLF plastic part (mount) are used to hold the JLF joystick mounting plate (its a rectangular metal piece). For the Hori mod, you cannot use the 4 inner holes, you must use the 4 outer holes but you need to modify them to fit a Hori case. The modification procedure I have already explained in my previous posts, so go read them again.

I see. I think I’ll stick to the STOCK HORI parts w/ the Sanwa Octogate then because drilling 4 holes to fit the JLF plastic part seems hard! If I were to swap the stock Hori shaft for the Sanwa shaft, would I just need to mod the bottom plate so the shaft won’t make contact with it?

If you decide to use Hori mounting assembly and only add the octogate, you cannot use Sanwa JLF shaft, you have to use Hori shaft, because the Hori mounting assembly will only work with Hori shaft where as JLF mounting assembly can work with Hori Shaft.

Did you mean the JLF mounting assembly can work with Sanwa shaft?

This is a bit of a noobish question to ask but what are the benefits of modding the stick? I got my stick in the mail the same day I picked up the game and it took a little getting used to in terms of the sweet spots for registering inputs (i’ve never used a ball stick for anything other than pac-man, lol)

I guess what I’m trying to figure out is if I’m not gonna have the opportunity to play w/ another stick using the parts everyone else in this thread is talking about, does it matter since I don’t know what I’m missing? I’m guessing it won’t make me a better player overnight but if the upgraded parts do indeed offer a better playing experience could someone let me in on what those benefits are?