well youve mention you dont have the time or tools to do it, and that leaves out money =)
this forum is FULL of people with tools and time and will gladly take your money to do it for you
well youve mention you dont have the time or tools to do it, and that leaves out money =)
this forum is FULL of people with tools and time and will gladly take your money to do it for you
hey guys i was wondering if i followed that link for the hori wii mod on my wiring if it would work. im new to wiring up a stick so im a bit worried o_O
my soul calibur 4 hori fighting stick 3 just arrived today. thinking of using the sanwa jlw with the red seimitsu clear balltop and seimitsu red clear buttons with sanwa micro switches. and this picture(which is also my desktop background)
http://img174.imageshack.us/img174/7060/wallpaperstreetfightersbe0.jpg
i dun see the red clear buttons and balltop in lizard lick though. any idea where i can get? and yes im a big ryu fan . srrry that the pic is too big
darkhero, how would you go about putting that ryu and sagat pic onto the faceplate on the HFS3? I have a HFS3 and already modified it but want to add artwork on the front of the stick.
i dont want to mod my stick, just replace one button. i know you guys are going to get on me for not reading first , but i need to know… do i need to desolder everything off the pcb just to replace one button. i need pics/ any help you guys can give me. im strapped for cash so this repair needs to be 100%. also is their anyone in the chicago land area that can do this for me?
I had to bump this because I’m interested in doing it. But can any of you show pics of the inside of the mod?
Also, is there any way to purchase short shaft sanwa sticks?
edit:
nvm! saw some pics with the guts. sorry!
Desoldering the board off of all of the buttons will make things easier, but if you don’t want to do that, there’s another alternative.
Push in all of the locking tabs for all of the buttons and pull out the buttons as far as they can go. After that, grab the button you want to remove and give it a slight tug as you desolder it.
Btw, if you’re still playing with the original Hori buttons, replace it with the same type of button. It would just be weird having one button activate before the other when you’re trying to press them at the same time.
well wat ive been doin with mine is that i have sticker printing paper that i bought from this store (i forgot the name). i print the pic like i do with regular paper. and just go to my school and ask the lady in the library to laminate the top of it for me(for 50 cents):wgrin:. well this might not help u much srry. :shake: try googleing it. i think there are also sites that print those things for you like how they print custom art for mame cabinets.
well, after doing some calculations, i might not be able to afford the seimitsu clear buttons. so i decided to buy 6 translucent buttons on lizard lick which cost in total of about 11 dollars. ima still buy the sanwa micro switches. and still havent found the red clear ball top yet. wish me luck!
thanks for the help but i still don’t understand.push in all the locking tabs? please dont mind my newbness. pics would help a lot. your help is much appreciated
also tingboy, for future reference, can you list the tools i would need to take apart and replace buttons on a pcb? and is there a chance i can sabotage the whole repair if i solder the wrong way? and how do i put the metal tabs back on after i solder?
If you look at the buttons from underneath the panel, you’ll see that there are 2 tabs that lock the button onto the panel. Use something small like a screwdriver to push it in while pushing the button out. You’ll understand once you open up the stick.
I’m not too familiar with this mod, but IIRC, you’ll need a screwdriver and a 15-25 watt soldering iron. You’ll need to peel off the sticker to get to the screws on the top plate. Just follow the pictures on the first page of this thread.
No, there is no wrong way with japanese buttons. As long as you don’t burn the PCB while soldering, you’ll be fine.
Metal tabs? What metal tabs? If you’re not going to use Sanwa/Seimitsu buttons, you won’t need to file/dremel down the metal tabs on the metal panel.
ok better question i read the little in site on the button mod. so all i really have to do is de solder the buttons, but after i solder them off and get my sanwa buttons in, i solder the wire to the metal tabs onto the bored and what part of the bored? (sorry if this has been posted already ive been re searching like a mofo with no clear answer)
If you want to install Sanwa buttons…
ok. the following link shows a pcb similar to the one on a fighting stick 3…
i hope that link works. notice the metal that i would have to solder off if i need to remove the buttons? my question is, after i remove that with the soldering iron, how will i put it back once i have the buttons in place?
to be more specific from ^ there… when i solder off the 2 tabs that lock the button onto the pcb, how would i put those two tabs back on to the pcb to hold the new buttons in place?
Ahh I see. Well, my method doesn’t involve removing the solder. I just slowly heat up both prongs and ease the button out, leaving the old solder there. However, you can just buy new solder + a desolder pump/solder sucker to do the method shown in the picture.
thank you soo much for your help. very much appreciated
snap in vs. nut fastened
Hi -
I see a lot of people using the snap in buttons but due to availability, the colors I want are only available in the nut fastened ones.
Am I going to notice a difference/loss of quality with these? The sizes look the same so I would assume they fit the same. Advice is welcomed.
Thanks!
It depends on whether or not you’re referring to Sanwa or Seimitsu buttons, and I’m willing to bet it’s Seimitsu; Sei has all the cool-lookin’ stuff and I think Sanwa has less selection for screw type, haha.
The Seimitsu screw-in tops have a slight convexity to them, whereas their snap-in tops are perfectly flat. I believe the actual pressing mechanism feels approximately the same, though. A lot of people prefer the feeling of their screw-ins because of this. I myself have always wondered why they don’t make their snap-ins (the type that is easier to install on candy cabs, which is their main market) convex as well.
If it actually is Sanwa you were asking about, both types are functionally identical. The only difference is the method of fastening.
Trust me on this. Because I’m psychic. I can tell from across the internet that you’re 26 or 27 years old.