thanks canto
ya im still like brand new to the stick scene
so if i wanted the stick height to be accurate
would i just use a mounting plate and/or washers?
It’s not so much the bat top I’m looking for (though it is preferred), but just an american stick in general. I need that circular motion as oppose to the square.
hiya FS3 modders, GC here with yet another one.
Bagi from Tezuka anime Mighty monster of nature. illus by Dr.Comet
painted with two different greens and pink. stick stock hori with modified pink LS-40 shaft cover on it. pink Sanwa buttons. some odd reason i decided to cut a window in front of stick
with some plexi inside.
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee241/GhostCobra/100_2482.jpg
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee241/GhostCobra/100_2483.jpg
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee241/GhostCobra/100_2484.jpg
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee241/GhostCobra/100_2485.jpg
Preview of next mod. this old CL championship SNES joystick is getting Fs3 guts tossed inside
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee241/GhostCobra/100_2478.jpg
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee241/GhostCobra/100_2480.jpg
Original controller…
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee241/GhostCobra/100_2481.jpg
A question, i wonder can you solder directly to FS3 small PCB where start select home etc are found, ot is cutting it loose and soldering to main pcb only way?
lol furry
you can solder onto the small pcb, just make sure that it isn’t removed from main pcb
really i don’t see any reason to solder on small pcb, i think it’s harder if you do that
need help with HRAP3
im trying to mod my stick with all authentic sanwa parts and also have a octo gate with it. my only problem is that i dont have the necessary equipment to do so. my question is does anyone know someone who can mod my stick for me?
Just follow my HRAP2 guide. All you need is a good phillips screwdriver and a nut screwdriver or needle-nose pliers
If you don’t have these tools, you can pick them up at any hardware store for a few bucks
thanks for the advice but i forgot to mention that i also want to have a 6 button layout, having the last two buttons on the right button plugged which would mean that i would have to mess around with the wiring. I play a lot of third strike and mvc2 and having the default button setup is awkward for my hand. I want to have a curved closed setup like the arcades in japan.
Edit: Disregard this post. Got different threads mixed up
so than can i still mod the stick to my preference using just a Phillips screwdriver and a nut screwdriver or needle-nose pliers?
Forgot to add that you’ll need a small flathead screwdriver to help with the quick disconnects. Refer to my HRAP2 guide on how to take them off. With that said, yes, you can. Modding the buttons for an HRAP3 is the same as doing it for an HRAP2 or HRAP1
thanks for all the help, I am going to mod my stick in about a week from now. My last question to you would be, where do you recommend I buy the arcade parts from? Hopefully the have fast shipping so I can finally play again. My second to last button on the top roll acts funny from time time. Thanks again for looking out.
Crap, totally disregard my post about the correct curve and stuff. I kept thinking that you were modding a Hori Tekken 5. I got mixed up with another post =. Sorry. Japanese Cab P1 curve is the 6 leftmost buttons -_-;
Anyways, I’d recommend Lizardlick since he’s located in the States. You can also go with Akihabarashop.jp if you want a larger selection of buttons/sticks, but if you’re just going with Sanwa OBSF-30 (snap-ins) and button covers, just go with the former.
since you got the post mixed up and thought i was modding a tekken 5 stick, will i still be able to use the equipment you suggested? I tried to take it apart last night and it seems that the pcb is somehow stuck onto the buttons and it wouldn’t budge when i tried to pull it out. I’ll post a pic later so that you get a clear idea of what i am talking about.
heres mine, finished in 4 hours. in a span of 2 days… simply because my dremel is a cordless one and it kept dying when i had to keep grinding away at the bottom base.
http://www3.telus.net/Hiroshirou/IMG_3064.jpg
its all sanwa.
Sanwa JLF 8T Stick
Sanwa Octagon gate
6 Sanwa obsf30 black/grey
2 sanwa hole plug
with first gen PSone controller PCB (dualshockless+no L3R3) The L3 and R3 button my hori stick is actually R1 and R2
and Iron weights (to make it really heavy)
thanks goes out to lizardlick for supplying the parts, and lithy for reference @ http://www.neo-geo.com/forums/showthread.php?t=179535 and also for everyone elses input, ive been lurking this site for a while =)
BTW my handyness index is 6 out of 10 in scale. that includes soldering skills and dremel skills. but i had basic knowledge of how electronics works. joysticks are practically a collection of on and off switches =) with that in mind, youll be able to make it through.
also the cost. assuming that you already have all the tools and everything needed to work with:
the hori stick cost me 55(with shipping because they dont sell hori sticks in canada)
the sanwa parts from lizard lick cost me about 54-56 bucks after shipping as well
and the Sony psone controller for 2.99 at ebgames.
and some of your spare time (4 hours)
about $115 total. just a few dollars shy from the HRAP. but difference is that the buttons are actually sanwas, and the shipping rate for HRAP is around 50 bucks.
Nice
The pcb for the HRAP series is always behind the turbo switches/Home button. Are you sure you have an HRAP3? Sounds more like an HFS3. What you’re describing to me sounds like an Hori Tekken 5 or HFS3 style PCB. Underside of the top panel of an HRAP3 should look like this
i guess i did fuck up in explaining which stick i had (sorry for the trouble) but at least i got the right thread to post on. do you think there is any way to modify the stick without using a solder or dremel tools or should i just give up all hope? if anything I’ll just wait for the HRAP3 to come out in the states. I hear hori is releasing the stick by the end of the year.
if it is fighting stick, soldering is mandatory. dremel is borderline mandatory, it really helps out. but you can also opt to get a filer to remove the metal tabs but its too much of a pain to do with a 3 dollar metal filer.
you need to desolder the buttons off the board to be able to make the switch to sanwas/seimitsus.
damn that really sucks because i dont have any of those tools available to me or the time to do it. know anyone i can talk to so they modify it for me? thanks
Try posting a “WTB” thread in the trading forums. Maybe someone will offer to do it for you.