I went with the JLW for the quick connects over the wiring harness of the JLF, so I can switch it out easier and experiment with other sticks. I also want to try out the round restrictor plate not available for the JLF. I plan on just using the Hori shaft in the JLW stick, so everything will fit in the case. I’ve also heard that it doesn’t affect the action at all, and feels nice. The height will be comfortable too.
I’m going to also rewire the button layout like this to save remapping work in game:
Square Triangle R1 L1
X Circle R2 L2
Finally, I was going to add some art to the top panel, but I decided the FS3 was too small and cluttered on top to really be able to show off anything good. So I’m just going to paint the whole thing to a mirror black. It’ll be my sexy ninja FS3.
BTW, this is my first modding experience on my first stick. I think it’ll be alot of fun expirementing. Wish me luck!
Being your 1st mod, I doubt you’ll be getting a “mirror black” finish on anything:arazz:
j/k
Seriously, why do you think the JLW will be easier than the JLF? With the JLF, you only need to solder 5-wires. You say so you can “experiment with other sticks”, what other sticks do you plan to put in this little case?
*
Keepin’ it simple*
^I picked the JLW because it looked identical to the JLF, but with quick connects instead of the wiring harness. I think the quick connects just seem like they are a little more convenient if I’m going to be trying new parts. I also like the idea of the round restrictor plate. Is the JLW bigger than the JLF??
This is my first stick, so I wanted to try all the major ones. I want to try the seimitsu stick as well. Maybe iL or Happ if I can squeez it in there. I think the quick connects will facilitate that much better.
Update!!!
I’ve swapped out the buttons, and I’m really impressed with the difference. I had no trouble, except for being a little squirly with the dremmel. It’s my first time with that too. I put a couple small blemishes on the overlay sticker. No biggy, since I’m going to take it off soon to paint it anyway.
OK, so the JLW is not going to work. The only way to make this thing fit is to cut out a hole in the plastic on top of the case, drill holes in the top steel panel to match the holes in the stick, and cut a hole out of the bottom of the case. Not worth effectively destroying the case just to use this stick.
I tried modifying the JLW plastic casing, but the holes do no match up with the mounting holes in the case. The wholes are close enough that drilling new ones will make one big one that no screw will fit in.
So, I’ve just ordered a JLF, octagonal gate, as well as the LS-33 and some seimitsu buttons to try out.
One last thing, though. Does anyone have any good ideas on how to add weight to this thing while keeping it balanced? It’s entirely too light the way it is now.
If your going to use an octogon gate use it on the ls33 or ls56. If you use the jlf use a square gate. I just put an ls33 in mine yesterday it fit fine, a little hammering on the bottom metal panel & I stress a little. The drilled 2 holes in the plastic an counter sunk 2 bolts. So when I put the top back on you will see no screws or bolts, just seimitsu stick and sanwa button goodness. To add weight put some of those led weights with the sticky on the back. You can get them at hobby shops, but the ls33 has such a light throw you won’t need the stick to be heavy. PM me if you want some pics or some great advise on making the best hfs3 you can.
I am a scrub that’s going to buy a HFS3 because the HRAP3 is simply out of reach right now. I’m going to screw with it until I hate it, which is when I will mod it. I’ve searched through the thread, but I have doubts about my own conclusions.
-A stick that does not require modding the bottom of the case.
-Preferably a stick/gate combo that plays nice with Soul Calibur in general. I don’t think I’ll be pulling a 'gief, but I will be shaking the stick-a-plenty to get out of stuns. Less swings, more double-tapping, but needs to be loose enough to where I can 8WR forward, then hit a different direction to access more 8WR moves than the direction I’m facing.
-Buttons that don’t require large cuts, or can otherwise be fit in without the use of a dremmel. (Someone mentioned tricks a while back? XD)
If my requests conflict, please tell me the alternative. I might try to bash in my case if it means I get more variety in my running, heh.
Like I said, I’m a scrub, so my ability to discern between what is a good stick feel and a bad one is extremely limited. (Hell, the default HFS3 will most likely feel good.) If anything, this stick will be the one I adjust to as opposed to complaining about the details.
HFS3 is such a bitch to mod man. I say save up for the HRAP3/used HRAP 2 + REAL converter. They already have a Sanwa JLF in them and changing the buttons is so easy!!!
But to answer your Qs
1 - Maybe a Seimitsu LS-33 will fit without modding because it is very small.
2- Sanwa JLF and Sanwa OBSF buttons or Seimitsu buttons. I prefer Seimitsu because Sanwa buttons are very sensetive. The Sanwa JLF can do all that… but you gotta practice with it to get it perfect.
3- You need the dremel for the HFS3 because there are tabs on the button holes that you need to get rid of.
Good idea: Start off with the HFS3 and then when you want something better, buy better.
Offtopic - I heard SDtekken revoked their statement about the REAL after doing a bit more research. Moreover, I think they went extinct too. T_T.
Back on - That does sound like a good idea, but I’m counting on breaking my HFS before I actually get to the point where I can say “I NEED A HRAP!”. Probably as time goes on, I’ll listen to reason and follow your advice, but right now, I’m aching to explore this particular avenue as a side project. I figured, naively of course, that modding it would also serve as a secondary repair job plus a better stick if things turn out right. Wishful thinking to the extreme.
I’ll convert that into a meaningful question - Is that a good idea, or is the general ‘breakage’ (I don’t think the standard is known for their durability) of the HFS game over?
Hopefully, I can borrow a dremel from a few hardware-hefty friends. - Maxx did something with screws a while back, did anybody else try that?
I don’t think it can break in a way that you can’t fix it. Unless, of course, you crack the case or something.
This was my first stick, and I liked it fine at first, but the buttons are a bit mushy. A button upgrade was very much worth the effort. The stock stick seems ok, but I haven’t gotten an upgrade in it yet. From what I can tell, the upgrades are just a little tighter.
I’m quite pleased with this stick with just the button upgrade, and you probably will be too. I will continue to tinker with it, though, as I’m still learning, and if I break anything, I’d rather it be on a cheap stick.
The button upgrade is pretty simple, but the tabs on the plate will be a problem without the dremmel. In the mean time, feel free to take the bottom panel of and explore. As long as you don’t rip anything out of place, or lose the screws, you can’t do much to destroy it.
anyone know if an LS-56 will fit without huge mods(i can deal with thinning out the bottom plate). The Plate to base is only 1mm shorter than the LS-32 and 3mm taller than JLFs
SDtekken said the REAL does not work with Dual Shock 2 controllers, and having 2 and testing a DS2 with the REAL I can confirm this. But I have 2 custom sicks, one with a Street Fighter Anniversery Pad and one with a PS1 series H controller and they both work without lag on converter side.
You want an already modded Hori Fighting Stick 3? I’m going to sell mine. Sanwa JLF and Sanwa snap in buttons. Some glue needs to be added to the buttons and very little modding is needed so the bottom of the stick doesn’t touch the bottom of the plate. Bought the HFS3 for $40 and the parts for $65. I won’t charge for labor. So $105 + shipping. Interested?
Pics:
You can sand it down and paint it whatever color you want. Best suggestion I can give to resolve the JLF touching the bottom is to take a hammer, smash it down (just as Rugedman did), and putting bigger rubber feet on it so that you won’t feel it on your lap/table.
Honestly it feels great, but I don’t think the time to mod it is worth it.
3mm taller than the JLF? No… I don’t think it will. Check out LS-33.
About the same height if not exactly the same. I had both sitting out so I checked for you but you would have to top mount to not loose any height on the ls33.
I just finished bottom mounting an ls33 I had to do a small amount of metal frm the bottom of the shaft and face bottom, also some hammering the botom plate. I used an ls56 mounting plate, & 2 flush mound bolts. The ls56 looked like it would fit if you really wanted to do some rads cutting on the bottom plate. But if re stick is in your lap the ls33 is prolly a better choice.
don’t top mount. Just drill holes directly in the metal control panel and bottom mount it. I am not sure if you should take off the mounting plate or not.
anyways if there’s no difference/its taller if bottom mounted i’ll go with the ls-33. otherwise, i guess i’ll be taking pictures of me trying to mount an ls-56
i usually prefer to play on a table, but most tournies/gatherings don’t have such luxury
