Its super easy, but I went ahead and did a small photo walkthrough. Basically, get something that can fit in the small side holes, push down on the wedge in each hole until the plunger pops out a bit, pull it out the rest of the way with your fingers, repeat for second, button, then swap plungers!
On a side note, try to swap like plungers, crossing plungers from different companies usually A) doesn’t work at all or B) creates an odd feeling button. Slagcoin’s site has a lot more info on that, he’s got a thread in here for it.
which seimitsu sticks will fit in the hfs3. I am willingto do heavy mods to make it fit. I’m looking at ls32,33,55,56. Will all of these fit height wise? What fits best?
I think anything can fit in if your creative enough. The smallest of the seimetsu is the ls-33(if I’m wrong someone correct me). I put the ls-33 in my stick and it was just a little to big I had to take a hammer to the bottom and put bigger rubber feet so it would still sit flush on a table.
I think the only thing I would have done different is to have top mounted the ls33 since the shaft is so short and that extra 3mm might help but it works perfect for my nine year old son who has small hands I also like it though.
For my button holes, I took a dremel, and did about 30 rotations per hole to widen them, I really didn’t like forcing my snap-ins into the holes in their default state. I would do 5 rotations per hole, then try and push a button/plug into a hole, just to make sure I didn’t make them too big.
Personally, I’ll probably use screw-ins when I do the SC4 HFS mod I have planned. I know some people say they have trouble tightening them(so they lean towards snap-ins), but I just twist a little on the microswitch while also tightening the nut, and they don’t go anywhere for me.
I think anything can fit in if your creative enough. The smallest of the seimetsu is the ls-33(if I’m wrong someone correct me). I put the ls-33 in my stick and it was just a little to big I had to take a hammer to the bottom and put bigger rubber feet so it would still sit flush on a table.
I think the only thing I would have done different is to have top mounted the ls33 since the shaft is so short and that extra 3mm might help but it works perfect for my nine year old son who has small hands I also like it though.[/
I see what you mean but I’d rather not beat a. Dent into the bottom. I was trying to see if I drill 4 new holes in the top and mount it as high as possible and still fit in the case. Will the ls32,55,56 fit in there?
I don’t have any LS models to mess with, but I know that you can use the HFS shaft on a JLF. Has anyone tried doing this with the LS models?
I’ve done this with my JLF-mod to see if I like the height better(since its closer to standard height), but I had to shorten my actuator to make the shaft fit. Not a huge deal, just something to throw out there since it might have to be done to use it with an LS-model.
Hi all! This is my first post on this forum, because there seem to be a lot of people here who are very knowledgeable about modding the HFS3, and I’m planning on modding one myself before the summer is over. Your projects have all been really good references, and really helped clear up a lot of confusion I had initially (like how to mount an authentic Sanwa stick inside the case). Thanks again!
I noticed a lot of people were wondering where to get skins for the HFS3 professionally printed, and to them I would highly recommend you get them printed from mamemarquees.com. Scott, the site’s proprietor, has been doing some amazing work for home arcade enthusiasts for a few years now, and the control panel overlays he prints are great (and most importantly, he takes custom orders). You can get one up to 12"x24" printed on vinyl for $35, which is adhesive backed and coated with a very sturdy laminate (unless you for some reason want it just printed on plain vinyl). Check out his site if you’re interested in skinning your HFS3!
I’ll be sure to keep you guys posted on my HFS3 project once I get started on it. I imagine it won’t take long to complete once I get things moving, but then again that’s what I thought when I started customizing an old arcade machine I found on the side of the road… LOL!
You will need wires for the buttons since they are originally soldered to the pcb. You may also want quick disconnects to make future button replacement easier.
Not sure about this, depends on your tools.
I just followed others’ tutorials, but if you’re reluctant to dremel, I can give you some newby-corner-cutting alternatives :wgrin:
Thanks for the help. The reason I ask is because I was just reading the joysticks page on akihabarashop.jp and it says they don’t include the H cable. But I guess that’s not the norm.
1st time modding here, doing a EX2 and two FS3s my only question atm, is 18 gauge Solid hook up wire from radio shack ok to use to wire sanwa buttons to the PCB?
