this better stick than Fighting Stick PS
http://www.arcadeshock.com/items/pro-arcade-sticks~mas~hori~/hori-neo-geo-arcade-stick-used-nghori-prosticks-detail.htm
I’ve a Neo Geo Joystick (old style) converter to PS2 system. I tried on play Tekken 4 game. it’s awesome! The Seimitsu LS-30 is very rarest and 89’s discontiued.
Neo,
As you said, the buttons might be a challenge. I know a lot of people bend the contacts on their buttons to fit them in tight cases, so that might be your best bet for those.
I can’t say for 100%, but it looks like mounting a JLF or something similar in there would be a pain. Notanoob’s idea of simply cutting a hole in the bottom and using taller feet/bumpers might be the solution for that.
Can you get some measurements of the sides at the head and foot of the case? I’m just curious as to what kind of clearance we’re looking at inside.
If you follow custom sticks, I’d say byrdo’s sanwa cases are some of the smallest around, to the dimension’s are here:
http://joystickvault.com/data/507/medium/Small_Sanwa_Blueprint.jpg
It would be awesome if your HFS is at least near those dimensions, but it looks awfully thin. :shake:
can someone |PLEASEEEE tell me whether or not this stick works on pc?? ive had many mixed answers so far
Yeah i’ve made it primarily for tekken 5 dr online and in anticipation of tekken 6 
I think the way i’ve dremeled the overlay so it looks like brushed alloy is a bit rough- thanks for the comments though!
Don’t you have you’re own thread about this, I’ll tell you what I have the ps3 controller driver on my pc so when I get home tonight I will try it and I’ll let you know cool.
Sorry Ning726 I tried last night and this morning and it recognizes the stick but not the inputs I tried using my ps3 drivers but still no luck I think the last post on your other thread says it all.
good looks. i wont be making the purchase.
I’ll be modding my second fs3 tommorow, this time i’m going to take pictures each step of the way and make a walkthrough with as much detail as possible. Might help somebody anyway!
Nice ! Looking forward to it.
wow… most of your sticks shafts are long… mines like half the size
this post just sounded really raw… no homo guys lol
That’s because the JLF (typical stick used) has to be mounted right up against the top panel to avoid scraping the bottom one. Which stick are you using?
According to a previous Notanoob, if you want a more authentic Japanese-cabinet feel, mounting it this high isn’t right. I don’t know the exact measurements to mount it at the most accurate height, but I don’t have a problem with my stick being high. Unless you’re going to authenticity, I’d say this is another “do what works best for you scenario”
Oh yeah, Notanoob, I forgot to post earlier, but props to your mounting job, it looks super clean! Did you have to mod the JLF at all?
Only shaved 4 raised mounting holes of the JLF base so the switch pcb sat back flush. Like this…
yea i know, for me tho, i just kept the original stick on there and just snipped the wires off…
Ok, so my friend finished working on my Battle Fantasia overlay, here it is:
First off, big thanks to whoever posted the SF4 layouts wayyy back when this thread was first growing.
So I want to print this as a vinyl sticker through Fedex/Kinkos. Problem is, they only print 3 square feet at a time. With this stuff running $12 per foot, thats about $24 of wasted vinyl if I just print one overlay. I figure I could at least print 3, possibly up to 6 overlays off of 3 square feet.
So my proposal is this: I’m willing to work with anyone who wants to print something and might find themselves in a similar situation.
If you have an overlay you’d like to print or if you’re interested in copy of this BF overlay, please let me know. I’m not looking to make money, just break even and not waste $24 worth of vinyl.
Thanks!
Until I get the overlay plans sorted, I went ahead and assembled the stick. I’m very happy with it in terms of play. I’ve got some new ideas for modding my other HFS3, I think it will be much cleaner.
The 3 buttons in the front are 24mm, whites are L1/L2, blue is R2. The 24mms are seimitsu, the 30mms are Sanwa.
Nice man. I still think you should leave the 6th button in there though.
You should hook me up with a HFS3 mod with a PS1 PCB in there. I need one! lol
My plan is to cut outlines in the overlay around the edges of the plugs. That way, I can always just pop out the plug with the circle of overlay on it, pop in a 6th button, move the QDs off the R2 in the front, and not damage the overlay as a whole.
I didn’t take pics of the inside, but I used 22 gauge stranded, .110 QDs, and I grouped each button’s 2 wires together and then applied a small label to each pair. In theory, this will make changing button layout easy, we’ll see how it goes if I ever change it! :lol:
Super clean maxx mana I like it alot even without the overlay.
How did you disassemble the buttons and swap the plungers? Could you post some pics on how to do it?