sir_arthur,
I can modifier LS-56 or LS-56-01 is very hard with FS3 because the shaft is longer! I don’t cut the shaft. I more shave there. My opinion LS-33 is best fitted on FS3 case. I prefer LS-56 is badasswesome! I’m infamous. lol
That JLF shaft was a bitch ! I had to dremel the bottom case and the shaft real low !
I still think it’s scraping the bottom after I press up but I don’t feel it really. If it bothers me I gotta dremel more.
The FS3 doesn’t sit flush on the table, it has those little pads. I plan on using a table grinder to thin out the metal on mine, then take a few whacks with a ballpin hammer to bowl out the area below the joystick shaft. This should allow for level play even when on a table, but no modification to the shaft.
Personally, I’d rather break the case of the FS3 than risk screwing up a joystick that A) cost nearly as much as the joystick now and B) could always be used in a different project.
I did this to the bottom of my shadowblade recently to fit a JLF in it. It works wonderfully IMO.
I plan on trying to mount a JLW in one of my FS3’s. If I can get to it this weekend, I’ll try to bowl out the bottom for it and let you guys know how it goes.
My shadowblade pcb is dead! i replace PS pcb and two small 10"mm buttons for start and select. I drilled hole in shadowblade. I’m not finish it. later.
So I put some brand new Sanwa buttons but it had been the second time I’ve soldered and desoldered the board and the liitle ring on the board came off and now it’s not very responsive it cuts out sometime and sometimes its just square the sometimes its both square and triangle so it’s basically screwed so I ordered another fs3 and a ls33 from opips so when the fs3 comes in I’m going to switch out everything,but thanks for all who put into this thread to make my live much easier when I get to work on it cause that would of sucked putting an ls32 and it not have fit right or something like that.
Man, something that really helped is to buy this desoldering tool from radioshack. It looks exactly like a soldering iron except it has a pump attached it it and it has this small little nozzle. It’s 45 watts and it’s only $11.
The guy that wired the board for me says that he won’t desolder anything without it again, and it is a Godsend.
Use very thin wire and don’t use a lot. Just enough until it forms correctly.
Are you talking about a desoldering vacuum that’s what I used but it was my first time using it and desoldering so it’s safe to say I suck, but I’m gonna try again when the new fs3 comes this week and I think it is the leads so does that mean the fs3 I already worked on pcb is no good can it be fixed and thanks for the advice canto.
opips2 once the ls 33 you sent gets here hopefully I’ll have the fs3 and I’m gonna put it in can’t wait one question what part of the ls33 am I going to have to dremel and thank you for the stick and the tutorial.
Yeah, it’s def. practice needed.
Now that you’re getting a new board, use that old board and solder/de-solder the crap out of it so you can practice and get used to it.
well finally got it together with the ls33 from opips2 and sanwa buttons from lizardlick and thanks to this thread and everybody in it. It’s plain jane but I like it.
Here opips2 it’s not the cleanest but I was going to clean up the wiring some more tomorrow as for tonight it works perfect so I’ll use it a little before I go to sleep.
If theres anything you think I could do different or better please tell me you can only help me by criticizing me I won’t be hurt or mad. Like I said before this is all new to me my only background is reading this forum for 2 months straight.
