rugedman - Last 6 buttons?! not the first 6?! for me it wouldnt be comfy using it haha… but nice work tho, if you feel good about it then i guess
Actually I only use the orange sanwas because I only play play tekken on this stick and the grey stock hori’s on the right aren’t functional I just did not have any more plugs but the the stick is so small that theres no way I could use the first 6 anyway that’s just to close to the stick.
Come on opips tell me what you really think.
Canto I added you to my friends list hope you don’t mind you’re mad helpful, and like you said we’re starting the same way I like that I’m glad not to be the only one.
Opips2 I’m going to add you to my friends list for all your help.
Yeah, it’s all good ! We’ll be noobs together !! haha
You should paint your stick ! Just use spray paint, thats what I used.
Rugedman
Sure,u can add my friend.
If you want paint metal panel control
wash clean a panel control. then dry
spray 10 inch to panel control. not too close to panel control
- prime grey or white 1 coat per 20 minutes 3 times
- paint color 1 coat per 20 minutes 3 times
- clear coat spray 1 coat per 15 minutes 3 times or you to up more.
then don’t touch on it for 24 hrs.
free scratched on control panel !
So while I’m waiting on some tools to try and clean up the mistakes I made on my JLW-HFS3 mod, I decided to take a different approached to putting a JLF in the HFS3.
As I stated in my last post, I like to mod the case more than the stick, so I had the idea of trying to embed the JLF mounting plate into the plastic of the HFS3. I went straight to marking off where I wanted to work on the case.
I cut out the center area to where the JLF would fit comfortably in the space. Next I used a dremel the carve out the space for the mounting plate.
Here’s where I probably should have looked before I lept. The plastic is not nearly thick enough to have the plate sink in and be totally flush! I pressed on and I have this:
Honestly, once I put the metal plate over everything, you can barely feel a bump in the whole setup. The best part of all, IMO, is that I have FULL SHAFT CLEARANCE on the bottom! No shaving down the shaft, no table grinder pain on the bottom plate.
As soon as lizardlick gets light blue sanwa snap-ins back in stock, I’ll get an order in and do some more work on this.
Wow, that is a really cool idea actually ! When it’s all done let us know how it feels.
Oh yeah, a few other things:
The switches from the hori stick aren’t that bad. They have standard mounting holes, so if you’ve got some crappy switches on a non-pcb stick or some Happ buttons that need some love, these are excellent replacements IMO.
The spring from the hori stick will fit in your JLF, and it feels a bit stiffer. I haven’t been able to get it to fit in at the same time with the original JLF spring, but if anyone else can, let me know. As you can tell from the pic, I’m an octo-gate fan, so I’m looking for ways to tighten up that snap.
Lol, I’m all over this thread today:
Amazon is listing pre-orders for a HFS3: Soul Calibur 4 edition at 59.99.
I can’t find any pics of these yet, but for anyone who’s a fan of SC games, but don’t feel like doing custom artwork on case, this could be a good prospect!
Hi maxx mania, ive been following this thread for a while and i’m actually upto the the part where i’m putting the Jlf into the fs3 - your idea’s great, but how exactly have you got the stick in there, whereabouts did you dremel into the plastic and how much?
I’m worried the stick might fall through the plastic through heavy use. Also when you say it’s not flush, is it able to have the metal plate screwed back on adequately?
thanks!
“but how exactly have you got the stick in there”
I have attached the mounting plate to the plastic of the stick using 4 8-32 1" bolts & washers. I drilled 4 holes for the screws after I cut everything else out.
“whereabouts did you dremel into the plastic and how much”
Part 1: Plate Positioning
To get everything as straight, I held the plate flush up against the top region of the recessed case, then scraped lines straight down(not deep, this is just the scoring part). I then moved to the bottom part of the recessed case and scored upwards to try and achieve to very straight lines. I then lined up the joystick hole of the plate with the hole of the plastic and scored horizontal lines, giving me a solid layout of how much room the plate will take up.
Part2: JLF Positioning
Take your JLF apart until you have just the black “cradle” (I can’t think of what else to call it) of the JLF. Turn it upside down, line it up with the plastic case joystick hole, and score the case again with a decent outline of the cradle.
This should get you to where I was at with my first pic, all your lines and marks in place
Part3: Cut it out
Cut along the lines of your cradle scoring to make room for the joystick. I wasn’t too precise in this, but honestly, cut less at first and keep widening your edges as needed. You’ll want to keep as much as the plastic around the joystick as you can for a few reasons: it will add support, help with keeping the joystick in place, and you ultimately need this space to attach the plate.
Part4: Recess plate space
This was the trickiest part, and its where I really should have been more scientific about things, but hindsight is 20/20. Anyway, you’ll want to remove some of the plastic surface in your plate layout. At this point, you’ve cut out your cradle, so you really only have 4 small spaces to do this in. BE CAREFUL! The plastic isn’t very thick, I actually went too deep on two spots and there are two small holes.
This step might not be 100% necessary, or may be approached from a different direction!
Alternate Ideas
- Cut out space on the metal overlay to make room for the JLF plate, giving you the most stability on your plastic(you’d only need to cut out the cradle section and not shave down the surface) as well as a very flat space for play.
- Grind out the bottom of the metal overlay to accommodate for the plate below. You could do this in addition to shaving the plastic surface for possibly a flat fit, or you could shave just the overlay bottom and have a slight bump as I do now.
“I’m worried the stick might fall through the plastic through heavy use. Also when you say it’s not flush, is it able to have the metal plate screwed back on adequately?
”
I can put the plate back on, and it has only a minor bump in the area. As far as falling through the plastic, I can’t say for 100% certainty that this won’t happen. However, I am pretty gentle when I play, so I’m not terrible concerned. In order for the joystick to fall through, I think your stick would need to move quite a bit to snap/warp/break the plastic. With the metal overlay in place, the pressure from it should keep the plate from being able to shift up or down, and assuming your nuts and bolts are screwed tight in the 4 corners, I can’t see it moving much side to side, no more than it would in the standard holes really IMO.
Thats all I have for now. I’ll go home tonight and put the overlay back on and give it some rougher rotations. If I can feel any movement or if I have total stick destruction, I’ll post it.
Also, please feel free to take this idea and modify it. I honestly got bored and hashed it out when Mario Kart Wii was pissing me off, so I’m sure that it can be tweaked for precision.
Ok, I put the overlay on, plopped in some buttons, and gave it some abuse. I did some rather violent rotations, a few overly dramatic Charge Supers (after all, I do love Guile), and then just kind of yanked the thing up and down for a while. Still no noticeable movement on the whole mount job. The bump is something you only really notice when looking at the top part of the overlay, and doesn’t affect play at all.
Since I’m getting an HRAP3 in the mail next week, I’m thinking about turning this one into a Battle Fantasia stick. I’m going to do a 5-button layout on the top, and if I can, I want to drill 3 holes in the front(or possibly the right side near the top corner) and mount 24mm buttons just to keep access to the 3 I’m taking off the face. Anyone know a good place to get BF art? 
For the PCB, I plan on taking a piece from a paper bag and gluing it to the bottom plate. That way, I can let the PCB rest on the metal panel without it touching metal, but I’ll still need to figure out a decent way to keep the PCB stationary too, but I have time to figure that out this weekend.
Pics:
Nice idea first of all.
So, because of the thin case, the stick is either going to rub the bottom or extend too high on top relative to the height of an hrap—or a little of both as in my case. I’m interested in solutions to both of these problems (without grinding any metal).
For the first one, I tried using washers between the bottom plate and the rest of the case, which did the trick but seems kind of sloppy. For the second one, I’d like to put on a clear piece of lexan a few mm thick to make the stick feel shorter, but I’m not sure what to do about the buttons (snap-in) in that case. Any suggestions?
Hrmm, for your button issue, if you’re totally against grinding metal, you’d have a tough time using screw-ins, which I would say is the simplest way around adding thickness.
Can you cut the lexxan holes slightly bigger so the buttons sit in just a tad deeper? Maybe cut them just big enough to force the buttons in but still have the overall lip of the buttons over the lex?
I have no idea if that is even possible, btw, just a suggestion.
Have you already worked out how you’re going to add lex to the top? Do you have any pics? I’m curious because I was looking into this, but it seemed like it would add a bit too much to the top layer of the stick, so I was going to switch to a thick vinyl sticker.
I thought using screw-ins was not possible because the plastic nuts would bump into each other. How would grinding metal help me there?
Not sure ATM, but the thickness would have be just right or I wouldn’t do it. I also use an hrap2 for ps2 and want both sticks to feel same.
I think you’re in the wrong thread man, this is about the Hori Fighting Stick 3, not the Hori Real Arcade Pro 3.
From what I understand, the dimension are quite different between the two sticks, so you shouldn’t have the same problems we’re having.
thanks for the info maxx mania, my first ever dremel arrives tommorow and i’ve never taken on a project like this before so it should be a good experience!
There’s a lot of helpful information on here and other forums with regards to this mod so it’s hard to go wrong. I’ll make sure to post anything new I find along the way.
I’m not talking about the hrap3. I just want my modded FS3 to match my hrap2 (in feel) as much as possible.
I figured I’d ask here real quick before I made a whole thread, but is it reasonably possible/worthwhile to mod a Hori Fighting Stick PS? You know, the PS1 one? Cause Ive got one, and it just crapped out on me.
Neo,
can you post some pics of the insides/outsides of the stick? I’m afraid I’ve not seen one of those before, but I’m sure we can come up with something.
http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/9672/downsized0529080002ai9.th.jpg
http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/976/0529080002ans5.th.jpg
http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/3067/downsized0529080007ec4.th.jpg
http://img300.imageshack.us/img300/6540/0529080011atz9.th.jpg
http://img144.imageshack.us/img144/2971/0529080011ay7.th.jpg
Something funny happened with my phone while sending some of these pics so some are bigger than others. But yeah from the looks of the side/inside, the biggest challenge might be fitting real buttons in the case, because this uses buttons much akin to regular controller buttons.