Who did you contact for that plexiglass top? I want one too :bgrin:
I just upgraded from Windows XP to Windows 7 64-bit, but unfortunately I can’t use my stick anymore because the Sixaxis PC drivers are 32-bit.
What’s the quickest/easiest way to get this stick to work? Replace the PCB with a cdrking USB gamepad PCB?
Just bought this stick off of amazon.ca. Looks like it’s gonna be some fun modding while (not) studying for exams.
I live in Cebu. I found a guy in istorya.net who makes acrylic cuts for PC mods primarily. I showed my stick to him and he said he can make it. Unfortunately due to Christmas vacation, I can only get the glass January in the earliest.
I have heard that CDR-King USB gamepads do not work well with the new firmware updates of the PS3 or with the new PS3 Slim. I have seen a PC/PS3 PCB for sale in pinoyps.com. I’m not sure how it behaves though. Maybe it will require the same drivers for the Sixaxis.
I will say that the CD-R King arcade stick PCB is compatible with Windows XP 32-bit, Vista 32-bit, and PS3 with latest firmware without using fancy drivers. XP/Vista just detects it as a normal 12-button gamepad and plays right away. It doesn’t have Home, L3 and R3 functionality for PS3. The stick is registered as analog input in PS3 and XY axis on PC. The PCB is pretty big though, and have heard these are actually hard to find now.
The seller says this board is common ground. Also has a PS Home function. When I asked about the odd number of wires on the USB cable he wasn’t really sure why. I was under the assumption that you can replace the wire with a PS2.
I’m kind of torn which one to buy: this PCB for my lone Naki mod stick for 12USD, or a second-hand stock HRAP3 with plexi for about 75USD for a second stick.
Yea, I’ve been looking for the cdrking arcade stick but it’s been out of stock for months now. They have plenty of gamepads though, but I’m not so sure how easy it would be to put that PCB in my stick.
I tried the Motionjoy drivers for 64-bit windows, which didn’t work, and now I’m gonna try to figure out how to install WinXP for a triple-boot setup… if that doesn’t work I might sell my stick or just kill myself.
The things I do for my SF4 kick.
I’m using Windows 7 64 bit and I can say that the 64bit motionjoy drivers work but you have to allow windows to accept unsigned drivers. Just google “Driver Signature Enforcement Overrider” and set Windows to test mode.
Thanks xheezy, it’s recognized now but the joystick motions are weird. When I rotate my stick in a clockwise motion, it shows up on the Test as a diagonal figure-8. Did you have to calibrate your stick?
Did you check the individual directions? It sounds like you may have connected the wrong wires to the switches.
Damn, it’s already been covered in this thread. I have the same problem as Sichiri where the joystick inputs are all funky:
down = left
left = up
up = down
right = right
Sichiri, did you figure out which wires go where?
Update:
Turns out you can reconfigure the buttons and directions via the Motioninjoy DS3 Tool (reconfiguring the buttons through the SF4 controller settings does not work).
Finally I can say I am satisfied with the mod…I think.
1/8 inch plexi. I traced the old plastic faceplate with CorelDraw4 and gave it to a PC modder for cutting. The first cut, the modder thought the curves were symmetrical, and it came out horrible. The second one I traced it myself, and still wasn’t perfect. The curves are at least better, but the height of this thing is short leaving a little gap on the bottom. Oh well.
Then I put some Ryougi Shiki art, printed from a digital printing shop.
I kind of burned the little PCB on top, so the labels won’t match the buttons. And that the buttons are much harder to engage than before I hacked this thing.
Looks good, although those screws really stick out. Maybe paint them or use black ones?
Hey guys long time lol
Im FINALLY modding my stick and ive gotten all the buttons in, the wires etc
In fact from testing everything actually works! Ive just got one problem. I botched up my 5 pin harness and now im having a really hard time connecting the wires to the stick. Any tips/suggestions or can anyone tell me where can i buy one of those locally? (computer store?)
Thanks a bunch!
How did you ruin the 5-pin harness? The one from the Naki PCB?
I ended up using a CD-R King arcade stick PCB for the meantime. The good/bad thing is it automatically works on the PS3/PC without pressing a home button or require weird drivers. But at the same time, it’s not possible to access the XMB.
I guess your best bet is…Raon?
I created this thread September of last year and my Sanwa parts arrive on the 29th of sept, and now, 7 months later lol, its finally done!
Large images incoming
Here’s the package of the sanwa parts that arrived 7 months back lol
A closeup of the sanwa jlf stick and the wiring. I messed up the harness and ended up having to solder the wired directly into the contacts. I put a good amount of glue on this for durability since the wires are just soldered on top, rather than going through a hole like in the PCB.
Closeup of the buttons. Took me about 2 hours of sanding by hand the faceplate to get the holes large enough to fit the buttons. I got the screw in types, and found out that the nut wouldnt fit due to the plastic housing that follows the button layout. After a moment of super nova raging, I used some of that white tape they use in plumbing (the really soft tape that has no glue, but sticks to shit for some reason) to create a thick but malleable layer which made it fit snuggly into the holes. If i dig in my nails and pull the buttons, theyll come out, otherwise they stick in and it woks well enough.
I also had to bend the contacts of the buttons so everything would fit in. The pcb is really just jammed inside this thing with no tape or whatever just hovering there but kept in place because of the (presumably) really tight fit, what with all the wires and all.
Heres the Ikan PCB with the wires soldered in and hot glue to reinforce it. If you noticed, I ripped off contact layer of the pcb on the lower left. I just used the ground on the upper left. You can see theres a green and white wire using that layer. Lucky break it was the ground signal that got ripped no the actual button signal.
And finally an overview of the messy wiring I did, and everything. This is presumably how it looks like, with the PCB pressed and jamming in even more, if you could see through the back panel. No tape or any fancy clutter free setup lol (i couldnt do it anyway sinec the pcb is held there by the short wires to the start/select/home/l3/r3 panel).
And here it is plugged into my pc with SF4 runnin and a big glass of milk tea (already empty lol) to celebrate.
Tested on Tekken 6 PS3 and and SF4 on the PC. The joystick is definitely leaps over the ikan knockoff. The buttons, well im not that fight stick savvy, however since the ikan buttons were pretty much failing already, yeah ill give it a leaps and bounds better rating as well lol.
Things for the future: Get a good cover art (I really liked the SF4 art already posted here by dev though im looking for an updated one for SSF4. Anyone got a girls of SSF4 art cover? lol. The new black Madcatz TE one looks pretty sexy)
TOTAL PLANNING TIME: Over 7 months
TOTAL NUMBER OF HOURS WORKED: Approx 12?
TOTAL NUMBER OF PEOPLE WHO POSTED ON THIS THREAD AND ACTUALLY FINISHED THEIR SHIT BEFORE ME: 3
TOTAL NUMBER OF INJURIES DUE TO THIS PROJECT: 8 (2 scrapped thumb joints from sanding, 3 burns from soldering, 3 sore fingers from, well, everything)
TOTAL NUMBER OF TIMES OF RAGE : Approx. 3
TOTAL NUMBER OF PEOPLE WHO HELPED : Alot (thanks guys!)
WAS IT WORTH IT? Not so much, I think i would’ve saved (not just financially) by just getting myself a HRAP3 (or even getting a HRAP3 and buying sanwa buttons here, just found out there are people who sell the buttons locally).
DO I REGRET IT? Nope. Hey at least I get to say I experienced modding a fight stick! First and last time probably lol!
Many thanks for everyone who helped and participated in this thread. Feel free to keep posting in it if anyone else is doing some ikan modding of their own.
Add me up
GFWL Sabaw3 (SF4 PC)
PSN Sabaw_85 (SSF4 when it comes out, already reserved a copy!)
Ready for SSF4!!!
Hmm, well, it’s done, and it works, which is the most important thing after all.
I’m wondering though, why did you use twisted-pair wires for the buttons? Seems like making a lot of unnecessary extra work for yourself … just to bulk up for the QDs or something?
You do realize I already made a Naki/Ikan art template for xheezy04.
@robbie
Yeah just to bulk up for the QDs as well as to give general durability. (I just had to resolder into the stick one of the wires which just snapped at the solder point. Theyre single wires. I put in glue up to the wires to give more strength). The stuff are jammed in pretty tight so im sure theres alot of stress in the components inside.
@d3v
Yup already saw it, which is what i referenced. As for the actual art itself, im still undecided.
I would have gotten the HRAP3 if I knew they were coming four months later after the Naki stick. It also didn’t help that the PCB is almost useless with the new firmware. On the plus side, it has a pretty big cable compartment, and I’m quite satisfied with the size. I have attempted twice in making a plexi top replacement. So far it is short on top and bottom but the curves on the sides are near perfect. I’ll attempt a third time and if good enough I’ll post the outline here.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16879995089
It’s on $30USD now, quite cheap if you’re after the case. As I mentioned, the pluses for this is a cable compartment, small size, and the possibility for a plexi top. If using the Dreamgear PCB, it needs any generic USB to operate properly on new firmwares for PS3.