Yup, like i posted months earlier, the stick works fine on the PS3 if you plug it into a USB hub (i use a generic $3 one on mine).
I would have gotten a HRAP3 if I, at the time, knew they sold the stuff for about Php5000 over at greenhills. Wouldve saved me time and money, though again, at least modding this was quite the experience.
Haha~ finally got to reply to this thread. Too busy and tired from work to actually log in to SRK nowadays. Now I understand why those sanwa screw ins wont fit. god damn the ikan turned out to be a complete pain in the ass! haha~ I was about to buy some screw in Crown buttons from Laugh (etokki.com) but seeing how I would have to cut the damn plastic for the nut to fit in… sigh, i wish i had a dremel.
Can’t even dual mod the bastard since there’s no more space to fit another PCB in. My best bet would be to either get a MC ctulhu or a PS to GC converter for some Tatsunoko vs. Capcom action.
Good job to both Sabaw and The_Third!
Oh please, when you plan to can to could you PM? We can do a group buy. I want a MC Cthulhu too. Hopefully Akihabarashop gets the MC Cthulhu too…
What is my stick worth (in PHP)? Here it is again:
It’s a Naki with white Sanwa JLF and 6 white/black Sanwa buttons (and 2 black button covers). I bought the Naki brand new in Datablitz and the Sanwa parts through Akihabarashop. Some small scratches on the plexiglass and the USB cable is slightly worn but everything is perfect.
I’ve been using it to play SF4 on PC but now that SSF4 is out I want to get an Xbox 360 and a stick that works for the Xbox 360. Dual modding looks extremely complicated and I’m not sure if I want to try it on this Naki.
I think a better investment would be a Paewang revolution PCB from etokki which supports Xbox 360 + PC/PS3. No more hassle for dual modding. And the Ikan is a pain in the ass to dual mod due to the cramp space inside.
I can see a potential in the cable compartment for housing PCB’s since it’s pretty big. Just that the cable will be out most of the time instead of inside the compartment.
As xheezy said, you could buy a Paewang if you want the functionality of PS3/X360/PC.
Wow, that Paewang is pretty pricey ($55 + shipping) for only a PCB. Sigh.
pcb wiring
Anyone have a pcb layout of the cdr-king gamepad (the 100 peso one)? Coz I dunno where to solder the shoulder buttons.
Reading this thread makes me miss the philippines man. I stayed out there in marikina for 3 years. I still speak filipino. Its never left me since I used it. I would hit up sta.lucia all day and the robinsons next to it had an arcade that was always crackin! Niggas was on that T5DR with nice cabinets. I miss the philippines. Someone hit me up with some taho and san miguel.
oh wow, zombie thread!
Anyway, Take a picture of the PCB then post it here. Also, you could always figure it out by yourself by plugging in the PCB to your PC and go to game controllers under control panel. Get a piece of wire, put one end to ground then try shorting the other end of the wire to the solder points on the shoulder button PCB. You should see the button lighting up in your game controller properties. Just try and experiment and once you figure it out then you can post the results here for everyone to know
^ hey thanks! i’ll do that.
BTW where can I buy that Ikan/Naki stick here in the Philippines and how much? Is it better (for modding) than those fake T5 Hori’s being sold at 1.6k?
I’m interested in this fake T5 Hori. Does it have a HRAP-like case?
Naki sticks go for 1.5k or lower. The groove on the case for the stock stick will accomodate a JLF perfectly, but you have to be creative in mounting it. Some mixed the stock stick and JLF parts (mostly just the stock stick’s base for easy mounting). Me, I made a countersink on the holes so that I mounted the JLF in its pure form.
Then you have the plastic top plate. The button holes are a tad bit narrower than 30 mm and have tabs, so you have to grind them off, but it’s not going to be hard since it’s just plastic.
As for its stock PCB, I think the recent firmware update closed out the compatibility of it to the PS3, and even before then it was dodgy in that you had to use a USB hub to make it work with the PS3. You’re better of changing the PCB.
^Same, I’d love to use one of those for a custom build.
Wait, what? Which T5 fake with a HRAP like case?
yep, I’ve seen it years ago at a store in isetann recto but when I came back yesterday, all they have is this Chinese made “teken 6” stick (notice the single t) which costs 1.8k. It can be used for PC/PS3 and PS2.
Oh and I’ve went at Datablitz SM Marikina and they don’t have Ikan/Naki stick but they have this stick they’re selling for 2.1k, which I think is a rebranded, repackaged Naki :amazed:.
edit: I’ve found this thread here at shoryuken about the fake T5 HRAP http://shoryuken.com/f177/hori-new-just-fake-110089/
Hi guize, I just joined to I could find help when it comes to rewiring the harness with a sanwa JLF
This stick
is the exact same ikan/naki stick which I got for really cheap like 1100 pesos new.
I was trying to view the schematics on the lizardlick site but they seem to be missing.
Are the directional inputs etched onto the pcb? like which direction is up?
Any help would be greatly appreciated:smile:
Photos as to which wire goes to where would be really really great as I’m a newbie to all this stick modding
Can you test if the PCB still works with the latest PS3 firmware?
From my experience, working with the stock PCB was quite the pain. I burned off the contact point for the harness. Then again it was one of my very first soldering jobs. If I would suggest you can get another PCB that would be easier to work with.
If you are working with the stock PCB, you could try to trace the joystick PCB where the microswitch signals and ground go. Mark it up and compare with the JLF and adjust accordingly.
During Labanpalooza last Feb, there was an Ikan that was working just fine.
stock stick works fine on my ps3 slim version 3.56 without any problems.
So based off the JLF schematics, retrace the wires to the board, and resolder to match the JLF… Would it be possible to plug the harness onto the stick in the wrong direction? 
Do cheap arcade sticks come with the 5pin harness? even the cdrking ones?
Also where can you get a plexiglass cover cutout? how much does that usually cost?
Off topic question, do all HRAP3 sticks come with a Sanwa JLF?, I wanted to buy the BlazBlueCT stick but I was unsure. Was also rather expensive. If it had a JLF then the cost would definitely be justified.
I have a variant of the IKAN/NAKI type of arcade stick but from Dreamgear (Arcade Fighting Stick). The stock components are actually good but it seems to be showing its age now. I think there is a slight difference comparing Dreamgear with the other variants - one thing I noticed is that it has 6 screws at the bottom panel (2 more compared to the ones we’ve been seeing here). Haven’t opened it fully yet as I am still finding my tools here LOL.
Anyway, anyone out there who have pics of the Dreamgear Arcade Fighting Stick innards? Thanks in advance