I dunno… A trade maybe? Got any Gamecube controller PCBs there? 
Nintendo Gamecube? That thing this is almost non-existent here.
Damn, anyway I know there’s some cheap gamecube controller knock-offs here in the Philippines… I was looking to padhack some for Tatsunoko vs Capcom. Well I still don’t know how much it’ll cost to ship to malaysia. I’m checking every local express delivery I know. How much did you pay for your ikan stick anyway? Maybe i’ll just base the PCB’s price from it + the delivery cost.
I bought the stick for RM150(2,081 pesos)
do let me know the total cost asap.
Maybe we should talk in PM haha.
Lol op here.
Its amazing the progress this thread has gone, its even more amazing that i STILL havent modded my joystiq. (sanwa buttons and stick have been sitting in my room for a while)
Seems i have most of the parts now though and since i might be getting a ps3 very soon, now would be a good time to get this in gear again (tekken 6!).
Ive a question though, I already have the wires, but what i got was the lowest gauge electrical solid wires I could put my hands on. Did i buy the right thing or is there a type of wire that I should be using (it doesnt feel right, its very very rigid and doesnt feel like this is what should be inside electronics).
That being said, where can i find proper electronics wires anyways. x, where along sucat did you find the electronics store? (did they sell the QDs there too?)
I was also pleasantly surprised with the look of the white buttons and stick on the case, since thats what I had intended.
I pretty much used whatever wires were on the CD-R king arcade stick PCB and leftover cat5 for buttons. I don’t know what’s better, stranded or solid, if you’re going to do some controller PCB hack though.
Lookin at slag and talking to X, i was planning on using the cables found inside a network cable or telephone line.
I heard solid is better but you can do something bout stranded too if youre having a hard time (i think they call it tinning the edge?)
Stranded wire takes on solder quite well and is much more pliable than solid. I just wired up my first stick with solid and ended up snapping a few wires while trying to daisy chain the grounds on my buttons (they can only be twisted together so much). Either should do fine, but watch out for any stray strands if you go with stranded.
Well this is a bit annoying.
I just got a PS3 slim last Sunday and when i tried to use the ikan stick (unmodded still) it didnt work. I tried everything.
I then proceeded to use my CDR king usb gamepad and only up and down worked, the buttons were all messed up too (circle and x were switched etc).
This is definitely annoying. Anyone know an alternative PCB for this or does this mean Ill have to shell up for a HRAP3 (the heck will i do with my sanwa then, i can probably mod the buttons but ill have to sell the sanwa stick and the ikan stick? damn havent even taken the sanwas out of the package yet)
(dammit my tekken 6 is waiting!)
On another note, talked to X and it seems it might work with a USB hub.
That being said, is it really important to have to wire the buttons to the pcb or can i just desolder the old buttons out, replace them with sanwas and them just resolder them in directly, seems less of a hassle (might just stick with the stock pcb).
Also for the wire harness, would it not be easier to simply cut the wire along the middle, expose the wires on both sides with a crimping tool and just “rewire and extend” it by putting a new piece of wire in the middle?
http://www.dreamgear.net/shop-by-platform/sony-playstation-3/arcade-fighter.html
*This product IS NOT compatible with the NEW Sony PS3 Slim.
I have seen a new batch of Dreamgear (looks just like a Naki stick) arcade sticks sold at Datablitz with the sticker: “Needs a USB Hub for PS3 Slim.”
I’m not sure what that means, you can ask Datablitz about that. Try out some USB hubs in your house maybe it’ll work.
Yes, it’s always easier to cut in the middle and extend, but it looks ugly, noh? Though I’ll consider going that route next time too.
EDIT:
How fragile is plexiglass? I plan to replace the black plastic faceplate with plexiglass so I can put artwork underneath, but I’m concerned about the fragility of plexiglass. There’s no metal plate underneath the plexiglass. I’m ordering 1/8 inch plexiglass. Will the glass be sturdy enough when I snap in/out the buttons? Will they break when I smash my hand over the buttons/stick?
the pcb isn’t compatible with ps3 slim, you need to change that.
I changed the crappy dreamgear pcb with a cthlulhu and works great (also changed the buttons and stick, but you still can use the stock ones)
Yeah im gonna try using it with a usb hub see how that works
CONFIRMED:
Used a 150 pesos ($3) USB hub from CDR King, my ikan/naki arcade stick works perfectly in tekken 6. Now to mod this baby with sanwa parts.
(Would be perfect if my hub didnt have this annoying blue LED light lol)
Put electrical tape over the light.
Yeah i was thinking ill just cover it up with tape, its a pretty bright LED for a cheapo device XD
Have the same issue with a 4 port USB hub I picked up for my PC. Absurdly bright LED.
Does it heat up too? Mine gets quite warm to the touch after a while lol.
Mental Note: Buy a cheapo USB hub next time that doesnt have a LED light.
Hey I have a couple quick questions and I didn’t wanna make a new thread about this same stick http://www.amazon.com/Arcade-Fighter-Nintendo-Wii/dp/B002EEND54/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=videogames&qid=1259391491&sr=1-2
My friend wants to play the new TvC game when it comes out for wii but I want him to learn playing on a stick, cause he is into fighting games. I thought this would make a good Christmas gift. So I have a list of questions about this stick before I make the purchase.
- Has any one tried the wii version of the stick yet? (PCB Wise because I heard some negative feedback on the ps3 version)
- Modding the buttons necessary? Are those buttons worse than the Mayflash? Cause those are awful. Might put in Seimitsu clear tops.
- Stock Stick really bad for beginning players?
Side Note: I might just end up getting him this, cause he gets frustrated using my TE Stick: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16878995151 lol
Official site doesn’t seem to indicate having compatibility problems with the Wii.
If it’s anything like the PS3 PCB though, you’d have to do some work. You’ll have to reorient the harness so it matches with the JLF joystick PCB. PS3 PCB is non-common ground.
I consider myself a beginner, and after comparing the stock one with the JLF, yeah it kind of fails. But on stock you get a fully functional stick with an octagon gate. I guess in the least if you have to make do with the stock stick, at least replace the gate (deformed) and spring (softer compared to the JLF spring). If you plan to buy a microswitch assembly you might as well buy the whole JLF. Some people used the stock stick’s base and put with JLF parts to take advantage of a clean mount. With a JLF base, either you have to bore holes on the top plate (which I did for a quick mod), or carefully countersink (which I just did a couple of days ago).
If I recall, Mayflash buttons have rubber pads instead of microswitches? The stock ones on these at least have microswitches. It feels kind of odd though. The plungers are pretty loose to the rims. The buttons feel soft up until a certain depression level, and then you have to press a bit harder for it to register. The holes are similar to cheap Hori sticks (smaller holes than Sanwa/Seimitsu buttons, tabs). You can sand or dremel it out.
A little update on mine: I have contacted someone to make me a plexiglass top, with a smoke grey dustcover. Hopefully it will turn out well.