the lack of the last 2 buttons makes the right side really blank. aha 30 pesos? Dam that’s cheap. Other than that glue, good job aha.
So far what I have done is drill the top plate to put the two screws in for a perfectly secure Sanwa joystick. I was worried the screwholes on the top plate might come off (plastic has whited out even on the stock stick) with only two holes from the JLF base holding it. So far the normal screwheads don’t hit my knuckles which is good. Countersinking will have to wait when I decide to replace the top plate with plexiglass heh.
So yeah, if i ever mess this stock PCB up I think I would have to place a PSX controller PCB in there. I have a few questions in case this happens:
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How do I go about wiring the small PCB for the start, and select buttons with the PSX controller on the Ikan stick?
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I only see one kind of PS2-USB converter sold in I-TECH. It’s a BLAZE branded converter, but it looks so basic. How is the input lag on this? I’m not very particular about input lag because hell I am happy playing online fighters even on 3 or 4 frame input delay lol. But it would be nice to have minimal input delay.
If we could screw the art in like with the TE stick, I think we can get away with thin double sided tape (similar to what the art piece on the TE uses).
@The_Third
For the PCB, might as well get one of Toodles’ so that you end up with a multi-console stick with a great PCB.
Okay so I’m working on the PCB… I bought a 30 watt soldering iron for this, but when I was about to desolder, the solders on the PCB won’t melt! Do I need a more powerful soldering iron?
30 watts is WAY higher than you should need. Most people use about 15 watts, I personally like a fine-tipped 12 watt so I can not burn anything leaving it on for a few seconds.
Is your soldering iron tinned properly and clean?
Oh boy… yeah upon watching more videos it seems I need to clean the iron tip.
But uh, does the thin layer glue that they put on the solder joints also hinder melting?
Pinouts for the ikan PCB auxiliary buttons
from left to right in upside down position so that you don’t have to screw it out
1 Unknown… possibly for the LED of the home button
2 R3
3 Start
4 Home button
5 Select
6 L3
7 Unknown… Again I think its for the LED…
8 Ground
Also, how did you make the screw holes white out? You play aggressively? Because I used those screw holes when I mounted my JLF.
Games like Melty Blood will make you move the joystick a lot >_>
Actually, I did start off using them. I sanded down the screwholes to accomodate for the smaller holes on the JLF. It initally fit, albeit tightly. When I took it off one of the sanded posts bent on the white lines, so I was worried about that and proceeded to cut that and bore a hole in its place.
Gaah, I’m starting to doubt the quality of this soldering iron and desolering pump… the Ikan PCB is scratched all over the place!
You shouldn’t be putting your soldering iron tip on any glue or other crap, that is probably your problem. You need to remove that glue some other way than your soldering iron, your tip is probably ruined because of that. Try buying just a new tip, the iron itself is probably fine.
Soldering iron tips should only touch solder, or stuff to be soldered to like copper wire and traces.
What kind of soldering iron did you buy? Did you also get the Winstar brand that’s sold all over the place here? I have a 30 watt Winstar soldering iron and a “FRIEND” brand desoldering pump and it works A-OK 
My iron’s tip is corroded (is that the correct term?) but still works.
Anyway, you sanded the screwholes on the top plate rather than making the JLF’s holes bigger? hmm… Maybe that’s why its bent. Anyway, a workaround with that is using the Ikan stick’s housing and putting all your JLF’s parts there. But if you’re a purist and want every sanwa part there then your method is still cool even if the screw heads are sticking out of the top plate 
Yeah, I don’t really use the last two buttons. Now that you’ve mentioned it the stick really does look blank haha~ Also, not just 30 pesos because I also spent 25 for the photo paper printing. 55 Philippine Pesos which is like 1 US Dollar so laminate over lami label is really looking like a better (cheaper) option after all haha~
I’m pretty sure you could’ve just used regular card stock paper which should come out cheaper.
Will keep that in mind next time when I’m printing my own art. My printer is f’cked up so I had it printed outside which offered the photo paper.
Actually, I just checked and there’s very little price difference with regular cardstock. It seems you’re paying more for the ink than the paper.
xheezy, where did you go to buy your quick disconnects?
Oh boy…
Well I botched up the iKan PCB…so I used the CD-R King (rebranded Blaze stick) PCB! Haha. No PS3 home button function for PS3, but at least I won’t be bothered with the LED blinking when I use it on PC.
Everything looked fine, until I tried putting the whole thing inside the case. Those two holes on the bottom are pillar supports for the top plate, so I’m not sure if I should go ahead and hack them to accomodate space for my PCB.
Philippines too? Deeco in Raon Quiapo have quick disconnects in packs of 25s. They call it female terminals there. But my first set of quick disconnects were bought from some electronic store along Sucat road, Paranaque.
How botched? Could you provide pics? Maybe its salvagable. Also, why use the cdrking stick PCB? That thing is freakin’ huge haha. You could always buy those cdrking usb joysticks that cost 100 pesos.
It’s not very major, but it could be a pain to work around. One of the solder joints on the harness area got completely scraped off.
Well I managed to fit the CD-R king PCB inside. It was more of a problem from the ribbon cable running from the small PCB with the start/select/l3/r3 to the main PCB that was too short and thus I wasn’t able to place the main PCB where I want it. I have extended them now. I like the CD-R King PCB because it has wide spacing on solder areas, so it’s good for a first timer like me. I think it works, or maybe my execution on the new Sanwa parts are just not very good yet lol. May post pictures tomorrow. I might get nominated for SRK’s worst wiring job ever!
I bought my quick disconnects in ACE Hardware in SM City Cebu. I asked clerks by this name and they don’t know what it is, so I ended up searching it myself in the connectors section.
Finally done with my mod. BIG ups to leaveal and xheezy. I’ll have to do the same mod again with a friend’s Ikan stick so I’ll do a write-up if I can remember. It won’t be for a while though, due to a defective button, but I’m hoping that Akihabarashop will send a replacement asap.