Wow, that looks snazzy.
I have a question for xheesy,
If I were to just solder the JLF wires (from the stock JLF harness) to the ikan (in this case dreamgear) board… What order or which color goes to which terminal? I can see the numbered terminals (r1- r4) , however, I’m clueless as to which wire goes in which terminal.
(obviously the blank terminal is the ground)
Am I going to have to refer to the ikan stick to wire the JLF wires to the ikan board?
Top to bottom: down, left, right, up, ground on stock Ikan stick PCB on stock orientation (joystick PCB pins closest to the main PCB).
EDIT: pictures of my mod!
http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/2959/pa211560.th.jpg
Red ball, black rim, six red and two grey buttons, used the Ikan shaft cover to make the -SK look 
Also note that I drilled two holes to the faceplate and not use the plastic screwholes so that I am sure I’ll have a sturdy base on my joystick. For my grip they don’t hit my knuckles, so it’s all good.
http://img26.imageshack.us/img26/3234/pa211552.th.jpg
This is where it starts to look ugly…heh. I used the CD-R King arcade stick PCB because I was not certain if the Ikan PCB was still okay. I swear the solder on that PCB was tough. I took it to a friend who had a 70 watt soldering gun and that worked.
http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/6485/pa211561.th.jpg
Stock Ikan joystick PCB and main PCB.
I scratched the main PCB pretty much everywhere and scraped off one solder point on the harness area.
http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/5512/pa211553.th.jpg
I elongated the ribbon cable for better placement of the main PCB.
http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/2856/pa211556.th.jpg
Buttons area.
http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/7396/pa211557.th.jpg
Joystick directions area.
That sir, needs some custom art on it.
I noticed that when I was desoldering the buttons that the board was STUCK on those buttons. I didn’t care if I damaged them, I intended on replacing them anyway. When I was heating one of them up it was apparently too much and the connector fell through X( But again, I have all my replacement parts all ready, the buttons fit in the faceplate, and the wires are all ready to go.
Just to clarify, from the orientation of your photo, it’s down left right up ground, correct?
@Drach, yes that is correct.
greetings from Malaysia.
I’ve recently bought this stick a few week ago, and after only mere days of extensive use, one of the buttons stopped working.
So, after finding a local supplier for Sanwa arcade parts I decided to mod this.
For budget reasons, I’m gonna try to use the stock PCB for this. I need advice on removing the soldering that attached the PCB to the buttons. Theres a thin later of glue on the solder. How do i remove the glue?
^You can scrape off the glue with a knife or screwdriver, or use a hairdryer or heat gun to make it more pliable. You don’t really have to worry about being too rough removing glue because you’re removing that solder underneath anyways.
cool, I was worried about damaging the PCB in the process of scraping the glue off.
Comforting to know that it can be done.
When you get the glue off, you desolder the crap chinese fake button and you will have two holes in the PCB. Then I would solder some wire into the holes and put quick disconnects on them to put on your sanwa button. I dunno if you guys use metric in the Phils but Japanese buttons use .110 QD’s.
(I don’t have your CDR king one, haven’t been to CDR king in 2 years but all of those surface mount console sticks work the same.)
Damn! White obsfs does look good on the ikan! I just chose red with black rims just because those auxiliary buttons were red (vermilion?) Next purchase would certainly be white or those seimitsu clear buttons. Goodluck with the repacements man. Also, put in and art mod there 'cause I want to see how good it looks.
We have Quick Disconnects here but when I bought mine and they called it Female terminals here and they get mixed up with the ring types and “U” types. And when I finally found QDs they don’t know what size their QDs are but I just gambled and bought the .110 looking and the clerk said it was their “small” size terminals. And luckily they fit the sanwas.
I bought them from Deeco in Raon Quiapo if anyone’s wondering
From where did you buy your screws and what size are they? Also what size is your drill bit? The screws don’t really look bad unlike how I visualized it.
Your Ikan PCB does look salvageable. you just have to put some solder into the pcb itself.
@xheezy
Sorry, I am currently in my provincial home and left the stick in Cebu. I’ll ask the carpenter what size of screw he got for me when I get back. Also, what do you mean put solder? One solder joint in the wire harness is completely gone. I’ll just put solder on that blank space?
Dreamgear is selling a Wii version of this stick. White does look good:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16878995153&cm_re=arcade_fighter--78-995-153--Product
Honestly, this stick is heavily overlooked and looks like it can compete with a Mayflash or a Hori Fighting Stick in terms of mod ability, with a removable/replaceable face plate, JLF-esque joystick base, a cable compartment, and a potentially large PCB space. Although, yeah this stick could use some price reduction. But where I am at, these sticks are cheaper than whatever Hori has to offer.
You see that red line I put in the picture? Put the solder there and it should work however don’t put solder outside of the red line since it will short with the other contacts it touches.
Yeah, I’m planning on buying that white dreamgear for the wii for some Tatsunoko vs Capcom action when it hits the US :lovin:
I agree with you that this is a contender with the mayflash, hori fighting and probably the namco stick and that dreamcast (agetec?) stick in terms of moddability
But still below the SE then (seeing as you just drop in everything with the MadCatz). The question now is, the price of modding this versus the SE (plus shipping) when TvC comes out (although I’ll probably get an SE, since I already have a template design for it for TvC).
Hi, its me again. Just received my sanwa parts today and I’m about to begin modding tomorrow.
Regarding the template picture, what size am I suppose to print it from?
Btw, based on d3v’s design I’ve personally change it into a Hatsune Miku theme. ^ ^
Result :
The size print at is 100% size.
Do not Scale image.
I’m planning on selling modded dreamgears here in the Philippines (Though I dunno if I should start immediately or do an interest check in the SF4ph forums). This is for those who would like a cheap stick and don’t want the hassle of using soldering irons haha. What do you think d3v? I’ll see how much Standard Editions costs here.
Seeing as UAS comes out in January, that decision’s still a long way off for me.
ITS DONE!
Went through alot of trouble, money and work, but its finally done!
Sanwa Buttons, Sanwa joystick PCB + ikan housing, Hatsune Miku faceplate!
Now I just need to test if its working properly.
