http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v600/Xheezy/nakitemplate.jpg
I think photbucket resized the photo but here you go
edit: I dunno why 300ppi looks freakin’ huge but here’s the 300ppi version…
woohoo! just got my sanwa parts today! gonna have to get the tools ready
It is, normal PC monitors are at a lower dpi kasi.
Templates are done, now to actually test these things.
Here’s a link to the PSD files if you want to print them out (if you dont have Photoshop, you can get it from your suking tindahan
).
http://www.mediafire.com/?i1g0njzgamz
Instructions on printing them are the same as with the TE templates: make sure to turn off the white area, cut outs and dustcover layers so you don’t get white edges when cutting. The only thing that really needs testing is the labeling for the buttons to see if they align right when printed.
Thanks a ton man!
If I knew how to rep, this would be my first instance of doing so!
But uh, I don’t have any experience with Photoshop, so maybe I’ll let my cousin take a look at this PSD file lol. I can alter the artwork right?
Great looking stuff!
Yep, it’s not flattened.
Whoo~ nice templates there dev! :clapdos: Say, could you make a 6-button layout version? I guess I’ll also visit SRK’s art sub forums for template tutorials now… haha
edit: nevermind… I edited to get the 6 button layout myself 
Though I gotta get tutorials on making templates or i’ll just edit yours.
Try taking pictures and logging every step of your modding so that we request to sticky this. I just took pictures of my sanwa parts in comparison to the ikan parts but no progress shots.
xheezy04, the art by d3v is .psd file.
You just turn off the Layers for Button Hole.
When you print out, all the white Layers are supposed to be off anyways.
As jdm714 said, just like with the templates for the MadCatz TE, the cutouts aren’t really 100% exact, so you’ll need to print it with the cutout layers turned off.
Ah, I get it now 
It wasn’t clear to me why you had to turn off the layers. I almost printed it out with the white holes on :)) Anyway, supposing I had this printed out and laminated could I just use a normal cutter to cut out the circles? And how do I do it anyway? But i’ll go ahead and google/read ahead so that I answer my own question
Anyway, thanks again d3v:tup::tup:
I’ll just share what I found on newegg. It’s a Naki/Ikan/dreamGEAR stick for the Wii with a different color scheme http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16878995153. I prefer the Wii white and blue color scheme better than the PS3 black and red.
Finally my order from Akihabarashop came! Too bad I can only start modding at least next weekend. Final exams raaah! This will be my first venture into soldering!..
I did quick inspection on the insides of the stick. The stick area fits a JLF very snuggly, but yeah the JLF holes are just a tad bit too small to fit in the faceplate’s screwholes.
I tried putting the JLF PCB onto the stock stick to see if the works with the stock PS3 PCB…Unfortunately I got a left signal for down direction, up for left, down for up, and right for right! Maybe the H5P that I bought would be handy then, or I could just resolder the stock harness wiring.
What about replacing the black plastic faceplate with plexiglass? There’s also the solution of mounting the JLF onto the underlayer and not the faceplate screwholes, but that will end up with protruding screwheads and would interfere with the plexiglass top layer. Drilling the screw through the plexiglass top might also interfere too much with the left palm. Hmm…
For now, I’ll look for some solder and sandpaper
Just resolder the stock harness and solder wires to the ends so you extend it. I’ve also given thought of using plexiglass as a replacement for the faceplate because I plan on adding art to my stick. If you want to bottom mount the JLF without drilling though the faceplate you could make the holes on the JLF’s “ears” bigger OR replace the JLF’s housing with the Ikan’s housing (I used the latter method, so my stick isn’t 100% sanwa hehe…)
Might I suggest that you practice using the soldering iron first. I too was excited about using the soldering iron when going through my first padhack… I didn’t know about the Dualshock PCB’s black layer that needs to be scraped of and how fragile the copper is. I almost ruined my dualshock due to my inexperience of soldering to a small PCB. Try practicing on broken TV remote controls and try to use a low watt soldering iron (I use a 15 watt)
Man, I still havent gotten around to modding my stick yet. Teh parts are just waiting here, dammit.
DOOOO EEEEHT! Haha, just kidding. Whats keeping you from modding it?
Tommorow I’ll try photo printing the template and have it laminated. Will also try to buy spray adhesive like what others used on their non lami labeled templates.
Here it is! Printed with A4 photopaper in SM sucat for 25 pesos and laminated in National bookstore for 30 pesos. Super cheap! haha~ although spray on adhesive would’ve been better since the elmer’s glue is starting to show at the sides.
edit: National bookstore did a really good job with the lamination. The plastic doesn’t separate from the photo paper on my button cut-outs. So the next time i replace the art on my stick I wouldn’t put those 3mm of allowance on the photo paper since the laminate really sticks.
Wala kasi tayong lami-label dito… I think (if anyone knows where we can have it done, do tell).
Yeah, maybe its named something else here. I haven’t really considered trying other options other than laminate