No.
4-Way is only UP, DOWN, LEFT, RIGHT.
Or only UP-LEFT, DOWN-RIGHT, UP-RIGHT, DOWN-RIGHT.
8-Way is UP, DOWN, LEFT, RIGHT, UP-LEFT, DOWN-RIGHT, UP-RIGHT, DOWN-RIGHT.
Square can be 4-Way and 8-Way.
Octagon is 8-Way.
Oh I see, thanks for clearing that up!
Square is what we’ve been playing all this time in local arcades since Blast and VS City cabs are the norm here so if you’re used to local arcades, I suggest sticking to that.
Just a question on the 5 pin connector, should I just reuse the one that the current pcb already has? Or does the sanwa have a way to connect the wires to the microswitches directly?
I didnt order one of those 5 pin wire connector things
If your JLF has a PCB and your wire for your stick has a 5 pin harness, I’d def just use that. it’s so easy.
From the pic earlier:
Isnt that bunched up wire sticking out to the right the 5 pin harness? Can i reuse that? Granted I have no idea if the wire order is in order but I dont think it would matter since ill probably just remove it from the pcb and use it on the new one (ill just extend it with wires and electrical tape)
Yep, that’s the harness.
With what you’re planning to do, you’ll probably have to ask xheezy for alot of help since he’s got experience modding the Ikan. Also, you probably should document the whole thing here so that we have a good, complete reference in case anyone else wants to do this in the future.
Yep, I reused the 5 pin harness there though you might have to take note of your stick orientation and pinouts of the JLF so that you might not mess up with which is up, down, left, right and ground.
this is the pinouts for the JLF though this isn’t the reference picture I used when I was modding the stick its informative nonethless: http://lizardlick.com/images/jlf_faq/tpma_pinout.jpg
I’ll try taking a picture of the insides of my modded ikan… I kinda didn’t bother taking a picture below because of the messy wiring job haha~
Yeah a picture would be really great!
The screws are behind the rubber stoppers so i just put them below the screw hole so that I don’t have to remove them every time I have to open the stick
overview of the insides and the messy wirejob I was saying earlier
Like I said before I reused the 5 pin harness of the ikan but its pretty short so i would suggest ironing some wires to the ends of the harness
Sanwa snap ins and quick disconnects. The QDs are not the correct size so I squeezed them using pliers and now it fits. I used 2 naki buttons but removed the switches so that they would function as button plugs… I highly recommend getting button plugs for anyone modding who wants a 6 button layout… DO NOT FORGET THE PLUGS when ordering like I did haha~ I daisy chained the grounds for the buttons (represented by black QDs).
A comparison of the Ikan stick (left) and the Sanwa JLF (right). The holes on the JLF aren’t big enough for the screw holes to fit in the case… If you want to go full sanwa then you need to enlarge these holes but what I did is I replaced the housing of the sanwa stick by using the ikan housing… Knowledge in disassembling sticks needed… Again, slagcoin.com to the rescue.
Sanwa JLF using Ikan housing so that it would fit the screw holes of the stick
Pinouts for the ikan PCB auxiliary buttons
from left to right in upside down position so that you don’t have to screw it out
1 Unknown… possibly for the LED of the home button
2 R3
3 Start
4 Home button
5 Select
6 L3
7 Unknown… Again I think its for the LED…
8 Ground
So anyone have the measurements of the top plate so we can try to do an art template for it?
17.5cm x 27cm. Though It curves a little… so it isn’t exactly a rectangle
Started working on a general template, all I need to know now is where the buttons/stick are.
Finally my local Datablitz had them and I immediately bought one! Now to gather money for the Sanwa replacement parts! 
xheezy, is the shaft and dust cover a drop-in fit to the Sanwa shaft?
Yep, forgot to mention that. No modifications needed as I used the shaft cover and dust cover from the ikan stick to the JLF.
Is the shaft cover really necessary? Just askin.
Also, thanks for the pics, now im just waiting for the sanwa parts to arrive
Not really if you’re the only one who’s going to use the stick. All the grime and sweat from a lot of players tend to corrode and rust the shaft of the joystick afaik.
Test image for the template. Unfortunately, I wont be able to do anything that involves accurate button placement until I can either get the exact measurements.
I’m also trying to get in touch with MIVLives to see if I can get the backgrounds he used for the Round 2 TE copy template.
Actually, if any of you is going to Revolution 2, I can bring a test printout of the template and we can get exact measurements from there.
Too bad I won’t be going to Revolution 2 this saturday… I’ll try taking out my buttons and JLF and trace the panel to a bond paper lol. What ppi do I have to set the scanner so that the scan is accurate?
Kung pwede sana 300 which is the same as the dpi of the template.