Modding a Mayflash stick (finished! 1/18/2009)

I’m going to be doing a 24mm button mod for select and start (at the back) how would i go about soldering the wires on the pcb?

Where abouts do I solder for the ground and for the active?

You want to solder on these points

http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/2545/011ako.jpg

the other way would be to find the traces on the other side of the pcb and expose them.

One of the inputs on my Mayflash pcb is stuck in the ‘on’ signal, its not the button.

What on the pcb could cause this problem ? It was working one minute and the next morning, without being tampered with, this happened.

Is this a bad sign for these Mayflash pcbs ?

Sloppy solder that is connecting two contacts of that switch… look closely

What silverdragon said, or it could be exposed wires touching.

Can you tell me where you hook up the power of the mayflash to the power of the madcatz 360 pcb?

like the 5v of the madcatz 360 pcb to the 5v/3.3v(?) of the mayflash pcb?
this is only thing i need to know

thanks a lot

You’re gonna need a multimeter for this. I connected to the USB output side of the Mayflash. This is the four-wire harness instead of the eight (or however many the PS2 side is) wire connection near the middle of the PCB. If I’m not mistaken, the wires are 5V, USB+, USB-, and Ground. The 5V will be the highest energy signal on the multimeter (I want to say, off the top of my head, it’s the connection nearest the center of the board, but I can’t remember, and I’m hesitant to open the case again unless I absolutely have to). Connect that to the 5V on the MadCatz. I used the Retro stick, and the 5V is clearly marked on that PCB (I believe the marking reads VCC) near the middle of the PCB. If you’re using a standard gamepad, refer to one of the many images available that will pinpoint the 5V for you.

Good luck!

I finally started to mod this and i got problems fitting the buttons correctly.

I removed the small tabs from the holes and widen them a bit.

I used a Sanwa button plug for testing the holes before starting to put any buttons. When i plugged a Madcatz button the button locks in the pressed position.

Tried the same button in all holes and pretty much the same result except in one hole which it doesn’t lock in the pressed position but definitely it’s not as responsive as it was in the SE panel.

Then i tried a Sanwa button and it doesn’t lock in the pressed position in any of the holes but it seems that it is slightly sticking. The difference in feeling between the Sanwa buttons in my SE panel is almost negligible.

As far i can tell both the Madcatz and the Sanwa buttons are going all the way down.

What is the problem here? Do i need to widen the holes even more?

you definitely have to grind down more than the tabs, the wholes are only about 28mm so if you dont take her down a bit more it will be very tight

I widen the holes a bit besides of course removing the tabs. Guess i will try to widen them even more and see how it goes.

Make sure the buttons slide easily in the hole and make a click when fully pushed. The symptoms you describe happen when the holes are too small.

Yes that exactly was the case, all the buttons fit perfectly now.

That was the easy part i guess. The stick of course is harder to properly put than the buttons.

And there is always the soldering part. Mayflash sticks are good for guinea pigs for first time modders:rofl:

I’ve been putting this little project on hold for a while now because I just wasn’t confident enough at modding the stick, getting back into it, I’ve become confused again, should I buy that 5 pin connector that you might need/not need for the Sanwa Stick. I think that this is the most detailed tutorial I’ve found:

http://translate.google.com/translate?js=n&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&u=http%3A%2F%2Fm.chupon.free.fr%2F%3Fpage%3Darticle_detail%26id%3Dmodder-un-stick-arcade-mayflash-en-full-sanwa&sl=fr&tl=en&history_state0=

Except that it’s French and had to use google translation. Ok, the part I’m having with the stick is that I don’t know whether I really need the 5 pin connector or not, I’d rather not buy it but if I need it I’ll buy it. Someone before said I need it, but in this Tut is says I can do without, but then it goes on to translate through google (which isn’t 100% translation because the English is all over the place) that there’s problems without the 5 pin connector and I’ll have to do something or something. I don’t know. Help me PLEASE!

don’t get the harness it doesn’t work with the mayflash pcb. IIRC you need to solder the existing wires from the mayflash to the jlf pcb or micro switches. You might even need to cut the ground trace into 4 parts but i would only do that if it doesn’t work after it’s soldered.

also this isn’t the only thread about mayflash sticks, it least 3 other threads have info so search around

http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=132043

jojoag: Yes, take the 5-pin connector but don’t do as the tutorial author who is cutting traces on the sanwa PCB. DON’T DO THAT, the Mayflash PCB IS common ground and connecting the 5-pin connector to the mayflash PCB is pretty straightforward (check the sanwa FAQ to get the 5-pin connector diagram).

Does anyone know if i can fit a Seimitsu LS-32-01 using the same way in the tutorial jojoag posted?

He uses the plastic plate from the Mayflash stick and he mounts the JLF without the original metal mounting plate. Can i do the same with LS-32-01?

eeeeehhhhhhh, what do I do, two guys saying different things, lol. to buy or not to buy. can more people clarify PLS!

(I may order the parts soon)

I use the JLF without the original metal plate. I use the mayflash plastic spacer, drilled out a bigger hole on the black JLF mounting bracket so i can use the original screw holes of the mayflash.

i haven’t run into any non-common ground mayflash pcbs. my guess is that maybe the people who have run into them had really old sticks and the pcb has since been revised. i’d recommend getting the 5 pin harness, but use a multimeter to check continuity and make sure the grounds are common.

for mounting the ls-32, use the flat mounting plate version and cut the plastic mounts that the stock stick sits on.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v489/justpayme/004-1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v489/justpayme/006-2.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v489/justpayme/008-2.jpg

Yeah, when people said that the pcb it’s common ground i was confused because mine looks exactly like yours in the pics. Unless they mean that the buttons have one ground.

As far as i can tell you used the existing wires that come with the stick to connect the LS-32, right? Can you please tell me which wire is common and which is signal? I don’t have a multimeter.

I will probably mount it like you did, the height of the stick seems fine.

Edit - Scrap that, i guess i still don’t get if a pcb it’s common and if it isn’t.

Edit 2 - After reading this thread here i think i finally get how to do the wiring. Also it seems i need a multimeter since the directional and ground connectors are random as brokenhalo explains in that thread.