So wait, you did mod yours dual PCB?
Uhm. Yes. As far as I can tell… it’ll be fine. However, I’m still waiting on parts to show up from LizardLick before I can verify 100% that it works. Still, my PS2 and my 360 both recognize the mutilated pads as present… so nothing blew up.
Pretty easy to dual-mod. Biggest issue is that the case is surprisingly small once you start adding all sorts of stuff in there. Still… I love the dimensions of the case, so I’m quite happy with it.
So long as it all works once the parts get here.
It was just suggested earlier that it might not work, with no real info. Glad to hear that’s probably not the case.
Anyway, here’s my halfassed progress on my stick. I have the Myoungshin Fanta semi-installed. I’ll explain what that means in a bit.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y192/warpticon/mayflash1.jpg
Paint job story: I decided to paint it because I dislike how scratch-prone the top surface is. The first coat was solid. The inside looks pretty good. Second coat, wind blew newspaper over onto it while it was still wet…I tried to paint over it to fix it, and that obviously didn’t work out. I started sanding it down (upper right) to do it over the right way, and had to leave. So yeah, everything I’m doing to it now is just setup, because I’ve got to sand it down, repaint it, and let it dry for a week (Krylon fusion) before I actually install the electronics.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y192/warpticon/mayflash2.jpg
The button holes are 28mm, which perfectly accomodate Crown buttons, so I went with those.
I got three Korean sticks-- Taeyoung fanta, Myoungshin fanta, and a Crown CWL305. All three, like most Korean sticks, use a rubber washer for tension rather than a spring. The Crown is the loosest, followed by the Myoungshin. The Taeyoung is incredibly tight.
I tried turning the restrictor plate of the original stick into a spacer, but then I tried the top part of the original stick, which actually fits over the screw holes in the case. After taking off the black top part of the body, the piece of the original stick turned out to fit, with some squeezing, perfectly in the gap left behind. So that’s how it’s mounted now. :lol: Still working out how to permanently affix the two together without drilling through the Fanta (trying to avoid doing any permanent modification of the stick).
@kowal: what kind of microswitches are those??Cherry??
@Warpticon: Wow that look cool…you still gonna use the old pcb??what paint did you use??
I’m most likely using the original PCB, though I’m considering rewiring all the buttons
As I said, the paint is Krylon fusion, cobalt blue.
Quick look at the inside as it currently sits:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y192/warpticon/mayflash3.jpg
KaizenStrife
it is JLF-TM-8 and use original MicroYamatace
but I have lot normal micro Omron with normal terminals V, I got this micro in TME price is 1,5$
Warpticon You cut cylinder base on top? throw is the same or longer? rotation is still circle or little square?
Throw is basically the same…feels the same, basically. I just took the stick out to start sanding the case down, so I’ll show you how it’s put together:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y192/warpticon/mfantamod.jpg
I just took the cylindrical base out altogether so I wouldn’t have to widen the hole to get it through, and replaced it with the top part of the original Mayflash stick.
good idea with the wiring. looks good!
+1. It’s a nice idea, Kowal to reuse the pins for putting the button signals on connectors. Very clean. Wished I found that one by myself… too late now.
Should I remove the platform for the stick or should I not?? I f I dont, will it be the same height of sticks from arcades??or lower??Or same as the original stick?
well i just finished my mod using claudeswares method of mounting (using the existing spacer), but it appears I might have damaged my stick on the way…
The down and left doesn’t register sometimes… you can’t hear the click… and when i opened up the clicker units, it appears, that it doesn’t pop back up properly, hence no clicking, would this have been me or a faulty part?
edit… is there a template for the artwork?
Everytime i try and print the one linked in here, it’s just waaaaaaaaaaaaaaay toooo big
For whoever it was that asked… I did do the 360 (MadCatz Arcade Retro PCB) dual-mod with the Mayflash PCB. So far as I can tell… it’s fine. The problem is I botched the soldering (did the soldering in advance, hoping to just plug and play once my shipment got here)… and don’t think my soldering iron is up to the task of fixing it. I’m gonna give that a shot soon.
That being said. I had partial functionality from both PCBs (ie, the ones that had solid solder connections). I’m fairly certain all will be well once I get the soldering going.
The biggest issue is that the Retro Acrade PCB is huge, and once everything is installed… it all barely fits.
Oh. And for some awful reason… Mayflash saw fit to make the red wires on the stick wiring the ground instead of the black… defying what I’ve always thought of as conventional.
Edit: I lied. Three out of four times, it was the red wire that was the ground. However, it’s always the pin on the right (if you’re looking down on the top of it it… such that the connection jumpers are on the right side of the board). It’s nice that it’s common ground, though.
I finished up a simple button swap to green OBSF-30s this weekend nothing fancy just soldered everything. The biggest pain was mapping the button layout for use on a ps3 since i got one of the older mayflash sticks with the bad ps3 button layout. Planning to do a stick swap like kowal some time in the future.
http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/434/img0288.th.pnghttp://img151.imageshack.us/img151/5783/img0297.th.png
Are you sure you have the right dpi set for the art? It should be 300dpi if you are using the one that’s been posted on SRK. Printed at 300dpi it should be 10.2 x 7.9 inches if it’s at 72 or 96dpi, standard for mac or pc, it would come out at least 32.0 x 24.6 inches.
@kowal: Did you reuse the mounting screws from the mayflash stick? What are you doing in the 4th pic with the exacto knife, just putting the stick back together?
Yes I just realised the other day that it was being printed at 72dpi, upon changing it to 300 dpi, i now have a perfect template.
Now i need to figure out how and where to get some acrylic.
What are people using for wiring? Going to be opening mine up as soon as I get all my sanwa parts. 
I just used hook up wire from my local electronics store (jaycar in australia).
I think 24awg would be best for the mayflash, its not too thick.
I used terminal blocks as well, so i didn’t have to do too much soldering and it just makes things easier for me
I used 24 awg solid wire. If you plan on soldering directly to your buttons then stick with 24 awg to make the ground daisy chain easy. If you want to use quick disconnects you could go 22 or maybe even 20 if you trust your ability to solder to the pcb.
Thanks. I picked up some quick disconnects and some 22 awg multi-coloured wired from a local electronics store.
Somewhere, someone asked about dual-modding the Mayflash. I’ve done it. I’ve succeeded. No troubles with it.
Well. No troubles in a technical sense. Soldering to the Mayflash PCB sucks epically.
Do be warned that there’s not much room in the case for a dual mod. I couldn’t use quick disconnects along with Sanwa buttons and still shut the case once adding in the MadCatz Retro Arcade PCB.
Still, technically… no trouble. Just some physical complications for guys like me who are totally new to this sorta thing.
Also… you can use the face buttons with the 360 PCB. Just solder to the respective leads on both PCBs and go.
Can i just add that the springs inside the original Mayflash buttons double up as a spring for adding more tension to a JLF stick
I also used two for button plugs by removing the springs and sticking the button into its seat.