The reason for the mdf spacer is so the stick, when measured from the bottom of the ball to the joystick hole, is 24mm, which is ‘standard’ arcade height. If you just screw it on it’ll sit higher than normal.
Also when I did it I needed to use different screws because the ones that hooked up the stock stick we’re too long. Shortening those screws works also
Yes, the button layout is the same…the only difference is for PC use, where the buttons are simply whatever you assign them to be. If I remember, the four outer buttons act as the shoulder button, and the four inner ones act as the basic buttons.
Was just checking eBay for the HRAP3…in the long run, I’m probably better off getting one of those…just might have to wait for awhile. High price tag, but then, I guess you get what you pay for. I’m guessing it has a PS button on it, meaning it should work for PS2 games then as well, hopefully?
i see, thanks for the explanation…, so now for the million dollar question, will mounting the JLF to the 5mm mdf spacer be “strong” enough compared to being mounted with the mounting block that came with the JLF?
The mounting plate is definately not 5mm. Going from the picture here
The JLF can go directly on the spacer, i’m not sure if 5mm will be strong enough though, coming from the bottom, but a picture tells a thousand words, and that picture definiately says it’ll hold.
lol I need parts to mod mine…I got mine from amazon…50$ with shipping took 3 days to ship…I need to wait awhile for parts but i can buy a joystick at FFA
I modded my Mayflash and it has a ~5mm spacer. The joystick feels secure to me. http://picasaweb.google.com/claudeswares
JLF->Spacer->Case
You do NOT need the mounting plate if you use the spacer method to mount.
If you secure the directly to the case with bolts from the top (mounting plate is used here), the stick will be noticably higher than normal. If you are okay with that then go for it.
I think i can answer that one… from the pics and what i’ve read, you will have to cut down the original mount from the mayflash, this is because the jlf mounting plate won’t fit with the original mounting plate plastic
Has anyone detailed how to mod a mayflash with a Seimitsu LS-32 ? I’m going to do this next week and would like to grab a few ideas before starting. Thanks !
But the actual fastening of the stick to the case is not detailed. The problem (if I recall correctly my sanwa-modded mayflash) is that the top cover of the case is not very thick, which means countersinking some bolts to secure the stick might prove too fragile… (and you HAVE to countersink the bolts to apply an artwork on top).
I have a multimeter, but am not sure how to find the 5v on the mayflash board. I want to do a dual pcb mod with a 360 pad: I’ve read that it’s usually the red wire, but when I test it with a multimeter there are numerous points that give off a reading of ~5v (around 4.5-5). The red wire is on the point C8. I’ll try to take a pic later
EDIT: it’s said that this pcb doesn’t work with a dual pcb 360 mod: the inputs go crazy
@KaizenStrife: Use the lamilabel method. This is the same method people use to add art to the Madcatz SE sticks.
@speedsterharry: You are correct. You must remove the walls and mounting holes from the case. The bolts then come in from the top to secure the mounting plate. I have not heard of any problems with the case breaking from mounting it this way (no guarantee from me though ).
@dramatics: That is sad to hear, but thanks for the info.